idosubaru

i'll probably have a shop do the diff swap, sounds over my head.

in which transmissions? does this effect swapping the front diffs? i will be swapping an EJ automatic into an XT6 and trying to retain the XT6 3.7 final drive.

i suspected it was for an XT. are all XT digi's the same? i guess there's auto and manual differences? what about 1985 and 1987.5's, are they all the same?

what do you make of that email then - you think that guy is mistaken? or some EJ trans are different? or being a trans from another country?

i doubt it. these engines are getting old age wise and we're loosing site of the fact that they blew even at 30,000 miles. i doubt maintenance or elevation has much to do with it. you're in a high density subaru area, that's probably a good reason there's still many around. it's been hashed out over and over on other threads, you can read through those for more opinions and ideas.

NASIOC has a lot more information about this kind of swap than here. i'd want to swap the wiring harness and computer for the donor engine into the car. might want to try sourcing those and see what you come up with.

I have this digidash and can't recall what it's for. Almost positive it's for an XT Turbo. How many different EA82 digidashes were there? How many different XT Turbo digidashes were there?

funny fact that i don't think will help you here though: the DOHC intake doesn't swap with EJ22's. some later SOHC EJ25's and EJ22's are interchangeable.

i don't know, i just copied that from his email. EJ's aren't 3.7 i don't think, but i don't understand that 1.1:1 comment as i've never done any diff/gear work like that. he said he has good details on doing this swap but hasn't sent them to me yet. said's it rather large and he couldn't email it so he's shipping it via CD, from another country. has to have pictures to be that big?

23 looks like the MAF sensor. pull it out and look at the thin wires going through it, if any are broken it needs replaced. you could try cleaning it with MAF cleaner (any auto parts store will have it) and reinstalling. and make sure all the pins/connectors are clean. the IAC is simple...it's only one bolt holding it with a bracket onto the intake manifold. remove bolt, pull it out and keep hosing the inside air passages down with cleaner until it comes out clear and all the blackness is gone.

yup. if a tech paid by the job, instead of by the hour, is going to shortchange anything by doing it "in the car"...he's not going to all of a sudden take his time, do things right, and properly just because the engine is out of the car. that point makes no sense really. either the person doing the job is going to do it right or not....paying job rates like dealers and shops do does not give the customer the best possible workmanship. usually it's sufficient, but it's still not top shelf. head gaskets can be done quicker in the car for sure. it is nice to have them out and also is advisable sometimes...like for doing a clutch as well. but in general pulling and installing takes quite a bit of time..if it didn't dealers would be doing it.

lots of variables. if it's running without too many issues and it's a manual then figure 1,000-2,000 on ebay. automatics seem to go a little less unless they're super low mileage. selling on the forums usually doesn't work too well with an XT6...although i have sold two through the online subaru boards. but i think that's not to be expected.

good point, i do that too!

i know you said "in general" but to avoid confusion they won't have new XT6 radiators.

it's possible to make this work, i know someone that has done it. he is supposed to send me some tips/instructions but haven't yet. i only have a few bits and pieces from exchanging emails with him, here is the most detailed i have (XT6 and EA bellhousings are identical): "To make the legacy trans fit the XT6 you actually have to change the front housing due to the bolt pattern. However you can actually use the legacy series diff. I actually pulled the front off and used the original XT6 diff as it has 3.7 ratio and 1:1 drive ratio. The Ej series uses a 1.1:1 ratio. and i didnt have the correct rear legacy diff." i emailed him again....

it's currently running great, so i'm not trying anything else. i've put quite a few miles on it and traveled through a number of states.

details of what you're doing help understand the question better, future people to solve problems and fix things and add to the board.

yes he is.

are you sure it's only got first gear and isn't just running in limp mode - which would be 3rd? if it's in 1st it's not good for very fast, but 3rd is capable of 60, 70, 80 mph. was the transmission removed for the job? give us as much background as possible, if it was i would check and make sure the harness is fully seated and none of the pins were bent.

leak down test time. - can you do a compression and leak down test on it, that's what i think needs to happen here. you've got some REALLY bad luck with subaru's! that is strange that you have two doing something that i can't really ever recall seeing before (in experience or on the boards). odd indeed. bottoming out sounds like it might be a good call, but the leak down test should be performed to see where it's going.

it's up to you. depends how skilled you are or how much $$$$ you want to put into it. thanks for the well-wishing skip! okay i think i missed the plural part of this question...you want to swap the front differential as well? do you know anything about that? rear diff = super easy. front diff = probably one of the tougher jobs to do yourself. it makes timing belt jobs look like beginners work and head gaskets appealing. if you're paying someone else to do it ($$), then no worries and continue on. to do it yourself, the "easiest" solution would be to swap in an entire transmission with a 4.44 final drive rather than trying to swap front differentials. if you didn't know this already then you're probably best off paying a shop to do this job.

i don't think so because it's only "newer" vehicles from what i'm seeing, which isn't much since front diffs don't blow that often. i've seen quite a few "newer" EJ stuff say 1996-2002 with blown front diffs, a couple last year. i actually can't recall seeing any pre-1995 with blown front diffs, which is even more odd by the fact that an older car with a blown diff is more likely to hit the selling block and be more visible than a newer vehicle.

GAH! (slaps head) Automatic FWD transmission. So only the front diff - edited my first post.

i assume you already know that the rear diff ratio needs to match the front diff? not sure on your question but i have a hunch you won't have any issues. why is the title "98-2003" but you mention 99-2001 in the thread? are you looking for an LSD style? are they clutch or viscous LSD?

Front differential - Redline 75w90? Where do you get that stuff?