idosubaru

on the trip computer is one small square tab -pop it off and there's a screw underneath. with the trip computer out there are two more screws in that opening facing down towards the stereo...and two screws holding the stereo bracket in place. remove those. then i think at the very bottom are two more screws underneath the radio, you'll see once you pull it out. the rest is all clips. proceed carefully, you probably already know but they break very, very easily and are becoming very hard to find.

1995 Impreza EJ22 Automatic ECU 22611AC150 1995 Impreza EJ22 Manaul ECU ?????????

on older cars the manual and automatic engine ECU's are interchangeable and most of the parts look ups at junkyards don't have a manual/automatic selection for 1995 - when the auto's were EGR and manuals were not. subaru part numbers don't typically help much....they'll slap new part numbers on lots of things that are interchangeable. i'd bet they have different part numbers just based on past experiences like that, but it is worth checking.

how does the ECU account for engines with EGR and engines without? 95, 96, and 97 EJ22's could have it either way. How come the non-EGR EJ22's don't give a CEL? Does that mean the ECU's are different? The junkyards don't differentiate 1995 ECU's...but auto's have EGR and manual trans do not. Does that mean they are interchangeable? I know they would run fine...but would it give a CEL or how does it work? i'm wondering if i swap engines from EGR to non-EGR if i can get rid of the CEL by just swapping the ECU?

welcome aboard, miles sent you to a good place if he sent you here! tell him we said hello! in an of itself the "orange-ish" color doesn't scare me. but that certainly does not mean there isn't a problem. if it operated fine through all ranges...speeds, gears, reverse, temps, etc...i would expect it's fine. did you ask the owner if it's ever been changed? did it look like there's any fluid running down the side of the dipstick hole (as it has to be filled here as well), it's usually hard to keep fluid from running down the dipstick hole when you're adding fluid and people don't clean that up on a 15 year old legacy. as for the price, in general $1,000 for a good running vehicle is not bad. but there's lots of things that dictate price.....a pristine 40,000 mile Legacy in perfect shape, excellent paint, all the maintenance records...that would be a steal. if it's 250,000 miles, rusty and has 8 previous owners....then you're getting hosed. in that price range i'd try to get something in the 100k-150k range as opposed to the 200k-250k range. i'm looking for some people right now as well and i'm seeing that is possible. of course your market may be different there, Subaru's are easy to find around here.

not sure what you're trying to do...like if this is a project or something, so this suggestion might be pointless. but you can disassembled, clean and reassemble the TPS. it can smooth out acceleration quite a bit on the older vehicles (never done it to a new one). open it up, clean up the contacts and put it back together, free and done! not too mention they fail so rarely that used ones are great options...even better if you'd like to clean them up before installing.

for what vehicles? i've bought from rock auto and Beck/Arnley kits before from a local store and never got pin boots. maybe the older stuff (EA/ER) never has the pin boots, but the EJ stuff does?

type in "headgasket" on this forum. or go to the internet and type in "subaru headgasket" and see what you get. the 1996-"2002" EJ25 (2.5 liter engine) has head gasket issues. so walk softly. they're great cars, it's fixable, but paying top dollar and then needing $2,000 in engine work does not make fun. i say "2002" because it seems more and more 2003 and later models are showing up with the same leaks....like someone just did last week.

those pins should just screw out. look from the front and back for something to unscrew it should be straight forward. all of the brake caliper rebuild kits i've bought only come with the piston boots, clips and seal. And maybe a new bleeder screw cover. They've never come with new boots for the pins, that would be nice though. I guess that's what you were hoping for, not sure where to get those but i'm sure someone has replaced them before.

ah ha, a conversion. same in most states...like maryland. "technically" motor swaps are illegal...but everyone does it. just know your emissions laws, pass them and move on. same thing in maryland and many other states, you can't even have it tested with the light on. with newer cars you can't even clear it and have it tested until it runs through a certain number of cycles. of course i do realize ca. is more quirky with their smog testing. good luck with the conversion.

yeah just match it up, maybe someone on here would be willing to measure or loan you one so you don't have to take it apart. i know people have replaced these before, maybe someone knows the size? maybe subaru carries it? at least you have a picture of the exact part to show them.

NASIOC guys do a lot of performance and engine modifications. i bet they have some good reviews and responses to this. i would check there. they do all sorts of head swaps, block swaps, piston swaps, etc. i know other manufacturers came out with head gasket replacements....for the same kind of issues...in the 90's that were multilayered metal in nature as well. not that it means anything, just stating what i've seen.

Subaru ECU's are jacked up. parts numbers all over the place and some interchangeable/some are not. all the XT's i've worked on are always gold and some interchangeable, some are not. never seen a silver or black one. is it that hard to find one or are you trying to locate a really cheap one? have you tried posting your exact make and model on the parts wanted forum, someone may have one for you. unless you've heard otherwise i would worry the least about the auto verses manual thing, but that's only based on unrelated XT experience, they are all interchangeable with no issues at all. i realize that's not SPFI but it wouldn't surprise me if SPFI's were the same in that regard.

sweet phil, nice hit. i just picked up a set of LL Bean heated leather power seats as well.

can you post links to those conflicting sources? that GD gives such specific information should give some confidence in the actual differences and not just information that is being "guessed at" or regurgitated. if you can post links of conflicting stuff maybe we can figure out what is confusing about it and why. specifically addressing the conflicting info is much easier than trying to nail down a decade of interchangeability. be thankful that GD donates his time here....the asses are the knowledgeable folks out there that are not willing to help.

i may have a used one, i can't verify anything on it though...like 'really good' or low mileage.

i concur with that. as far as installing a timing belt, i remember thinking "what's all the fuss about this special tool" after my first one. wasn't hard at all, even the first time. as far as removing the cam bolt though, the tool would certainly be nice but i haven't needed one yet. i've used large pipe wrenches before - they work much better than those straps. i've had those straps slip before, they do work but are more annoying. the pipe wrench works every single time easily..of course you have to protect the sprockets.

XT's are always interchangeable from auto to manual, i imagine many EA82's would be as well. the 3AT (3 speed automatics) may differ though, but i would bet they're still the same as the manual. there's was one year in the mix that was a real goof ball...can't recall if that was EA81 or EA82 though, hopefully someone will pipe up - i think GD knows a lot about that.

the hole is 13/16" in diameter

WOW uni, that's a crazy one. i always replace that, Subaru calls it a "ring seal". that's not the "typical" torque converter seating 'trick' or 'issue' i'm speaking about. there is a certain amount of "seating" that needs to happen every single time that doesn't usually happen easily.

pretty sure they are a good bit different. but you might be able to make it work. you'd have to swap the pulleys and possibly the clutch as well. and make sure the a/c fittings are compatible. then hopefully mounting it is workable.

should be able to find all you need with a search of this forum, including where to buy those. they are not at all necessary. EJ22, EJ18, EJ25 DOHC, and EJ25 SOHC are all very easy to do without one. lots of information on doing that properly on here as well.

yes i could measure, engine will go in in the next couple days. memory guesses around 1/2". i think there's access to tap later. i have one NPT tap, doubt it's the right size. so measure tonight and find a tap tomorrow to do it before the engine install, do hardware stores usually carry a few sizes of NPT taps and do they carry the plugs as well? i've never heard of or seen the plugs?

awesome! good idea. will the plug leak or do they need sealant on the threads.

i've got a few EJ22's and EJ25's lying around and i see nothing similar on them. the hole/opening points towards the passengers side fender and has a pipe bolted to it that goes up to the intake manifold.