idosubaru

on more than one occassion i've seen oil seals pouring out oil. probably 3 or 4 times. it will gush right out of those seals like the exxon valdez. i've seen oil pump shaft seal and crank seals both do it (yes, same thing on EJ engines)....it just dumps right out, steady stream on the ground. in one case the crank seal was wobbling in the housing, i don't know how it didn't pop all the way out.

yes it's essentially what i was referring to in my first post: point being it's like any other engine, the manuals have the same access hole in the bell housing. i would try it in gear with brakes on first though.

i'll add that some EJ's also have an oring behind the cam caps that hold the cam seals. i can't recall if the EJ25 DOHC has those or not but replace them if it does. they won't be your pouring problem but they do leak over time and at your age/mileage it's time to replace them...plus you're right in there anyway and i think it's only 2 bolts to replace them.

yes 4 cam seals and the crank seal and the oil pump sealant. Subaru recommends Anaerobic sealant which is the best to use here but use RTV - that just runs the risk of coagulating in the oil supply if too much is used or put in the wrong place. with the oil pump off you'll want to check all the screws on the rear backing plate - you can't miss them. they tend to come loose, just locktite them and reinstall. i'd go ahead and replace your belt if you don't know. being an interference engine, bad mojo ($$$$) if the belt breaks. look up the endwrench article on doing an EJ25 DOHC timing belt job, print that out, it's Subaru's tech articles, very helpful and straight forward. read through it.

that's a good assessment. the 4EAT transmission in this legacy is very reliable for an automatic. if you don't overheat the ATF or run them out of fluid they will last quite a while. the biggest detriment right now isn't the transmission it's time. there's 15 years for things like poor maintenance, mismatched tires, improper towing, overheated or lack of ATF....etc. it's not really that unheard of for an automatic to fail at 150k but they can certainly last longer. while very reliable for an automatic, they still aren't as reliable as a manual trans. the positive side of the bad news is that they rarely just fail and quit working, you should have signs well ahead of time if it does. and they are very easy to find for cheap, at least around here they are. it's because they're reliable that there's plenty of used transmissions out there for sale, keeping the prices low. i picked one up last year for $150 with 100,000 miles on it.

you checked for something obvious like the oil filter?

good luck, hope you figure something out with it. here's an important question - this isn't regarding your XT6 is it? the FSM's for the XT6 are dead wrong. i think you're talking about the EA82 - which i'd want to verify is correct. i imagine it would be though, but would want to know for sure since the XT6 one is impossible to meet FSM spec's. then there's always this:

no not all the seals - you have one compromised seal. if the timing covers are wet it's going to be a cam seal, crank seal, or the oil pump seal (anaerobic sealant). most likely it's one of the seals and will be obvious once the timing covers are off...or at least should be obvious. actually it doesn't matter you should replace them all once you're in there anyway since you have to remove the timing belt to get to them. silly to remove it, replace one seal that's leaking and neglect the other seals that only cost a couple dollars each and are right there in front of you with the timing belt off. Subaru charges $699 (last quote i saw) for a timing belt change....so replacing one seal for $700...only to have another one start leaking at the end of the year is silly when they're only a few dollars each. many, including myself, replace all of the seals with every timing belt job on EJ25's. with a timing belt change interval of 105,000 miles you're expecting the seals to last 200,000 miles if you don't replace them, it can happen but it's a bit risky (as you're finding out). when was the timing belt replaced and how many miles on the car? get a new timing belt if there's any chance this oil got on the belt. i installed a new timing belt last year that only lasted a few months and not even 10,000 miles due to getting oil on it from a leaking seal. the oil compromises the seal. no big deal for my buddy, i just installed a new belt when it broke. on your car though - the 2.5 is an interference engine and will sustain internal engine damage if the timing belt breaks.

this is a tough one, very open ended without much information. what motor - EA82? what kind of driving are you doing, what transmission?how's the acceleration and performance, everything is normal, no check engine lights? plugs wires, cap, and rotor. air filter, fuel filter, O2 sensor, timing set properly? brakes could be dragging..not seized or bad in any way, just dragging. i've seen vehicles get a few mpg better after a brake job eventhough everything was working fine. grease the pins properly - with brake specific grease.

not sure on the lube but a last resort might be to crack open any tie rod end at the parts store and they usually come with grease i believe (at least the few i've replaced do on american vehicles). read the pack, i doubt it's anything particular. if there's any suspicion at all that it's weak or warn i would not just replace the boot, replace the tie rod as well. i already said it but a tie rod busting can be insanely dangerous...you're talking about one of the most dangerous situations here. this is not one area to take any chances.

subaru steering racks are very resilient and reliable. i would leave it. they very rarely fail and the only significant issues they have is leaking...which yours isn't doing yet, so i would not replace the entire rack. assuming the knock is the inner tie rod, replace it. tie rods are way too important and dangerous to not replace if they are bad. a friend of mines broke while driving in the fall (not a subaru), it was a bit scarry, he was following me. as for replacing the rack, i think most experienced Subaru people would recommend doing that, but we'll see as others chime in. i would feel more confident with your rack...knowing that it's been in constant use, well taken care of (until this boot!) and continuously properly lubed, as well as not leaking than some rack that was in an accident, ended up in a junk yard and has been sitting and drying out the seals and collecting dust for who knows how long.

good point, i really didn't do it justice at all!

on the trip computer is one small square tab -pop it off and there's a screw underneath. with the trip computer out there are two more screws in that opening facing down towards the stereo...and two screws holding the stereo bracket in place. remove those. then i think at the very bottom are two more screws underneath the radio, you'll see once you pull it out. the rest is all clips. proceed carefully, you probably already know but they break very, very easily and are becoming very hard to find.

1995 Impreza EJ22 Automatic ECU 22611AC150 1995 Impreza EJ22 Manaul ECU ?????????

on older cars the manual and automatic engine ECU's are interchangeable and most of the parts look ups at junkyards don't have a manual/automatic selection for 1995 - when the auto's were EGR and manuals were not. subaru part numbers don't typically help much....they'll slap new part numbers on lots of things that are interchangeable. i'd bet they have different part numbers just based on past experiences like that, but it is worth checking.

how does the ECU account for engines with EGR and engines without? 95, 96, and 97 EJ22's could have it either way. How come the non-EGR EJ22's don't give a CEL? Does that mean the ECU's are different? The junkyards don't differentiate 1995 ECU's...but auto's have EGR and manual trans do not. Does that mean they are interchangeable? I know they would run fine...but would it give a CEL or how does it work? i'm wondering if i swap engines from EGR to non-EGR if i can get rid of the CEL by just swapping the ECU?

welcome aboard, miles sent you to a good place if he sent you here! tell him we said hello! in an of itself the "orange-ish" color doesn't scare me. but that certainly does not mean there isn't a problem. if it operated fine through all ranges...speeds, gears, reverse, temps, etc...i would expect it's fine. did you ask the owner if it's ever been changed? did it look like there's any fluid running down the side of the dipstick hole (as it has to be filled here as well), it's usually hard to keep fluid from running down the dipstick hole when you're adding fluid and people don't clean that up on a 15 year old legacy. as for the price, in general $1,000 for a good running vehicle is not bad. but there's lots of things that dictate price.....a pristine 40,000 mile Legacy in perfect shape, excellent paint, all the maintenance records...that would be a steal. if it's 250,000 miles, rusty and has 8 previous owners....then you're getting hosed. in that price range i'd try to get something in the 100k-150k range as opposed to the 200k-250k range. i'm looking for some people right now as well and i'm seeing that is possible. of course your market may be different there, Subaru's are easy to find around here.

not sure what you're trying to do...like if this is a project or something, so this suggestion might be pointless. but you can disassembled, clean and reassemble the TPS. it can smooth out acceleration quite a bit on the older vehicles (never done it to a new one). open it up, clean up the contacts and put it back together, free and done! not too mention they fail so rarely that used ones are great options...even better if you'd like to clean them up before installing.

for what vehicles? i've bought from rock auto and Beck/Arnley kits before from a local store and never got pin boots. maybe the older stuff (EA/ER) never has the pin boots, but the EJ stuff does?

type in "headgasket" on this forum. or go to the internet and type in "subaru headgasket" and see what you get. the 1996-"2002" EJ25 (2.5 liter engine) has head gasket issues. so walk softly. they're great cars, it's fixable, but paying top dollar and then needing $2,000 in engine work does not make fun. i say "2002" because it seems more and more 2003 and later models are showing up with the same leaks....like someone just did last week.

those pins should just screw out. look from the front and back for something to unscrew it should be straight forward. all of the brake caliper rebuild kits i've bought only come with the piston boots, clips and seal. And maybe a new bleeder screw cover. They've never come with new boots for the pins, that would be nice though. I guess that's what you were hoping for, not sure where to get those but i'm sure someone has replaced them before.

ah ha, a conversion. same in most states...like maryland. "technically" motor swaps are illegal...but everyone does it. just know your emissions laws, pass them and move on. same thing in maryland and many other states, you can't even have it tested with the light on. with newer cars you can't even clear it and have it tested until it runs through a certain number of cycles. of course i do realize ca. is more quirky with their smog testing. good luck with the conversion.

yeah just match it up, maybe someone on here would be willing to measure or loan you one so you don't have to take it apart. i know people have replaced these before, maybe someone knows the size? maybe subaru carries it? at least you have a picture of the exact part to show them.

NASIOC guys do a lot of performance and engine modifications. i bet they have some good reviews and responses to this. i would check there. they do all sorts of head swaps, block swaps, piston swaps, etc. i know other manufacturers came out with head gasket replacements....for the same kind of issues...in the 90's that were multilayered metal in nature as well. not that it means anything, just stating what i've seen.

Subaru ECU's are jacked up. parts numbers all over the place and some interchangeable/some are not. all the XT's i've worked on are always gold and some interchangeable, some are not. never seen a silver or black one. is it that hard to find one or are you trying to locate a really cheap one? have you tried posting your exact make and model on the parts wanted forum, someone may have one for you. unless you've heard otherwise i would worry the least about the auto verses manual thing, but that's only based on unrelated XT experience, they are all interchangeable with no issues at all. i realize that's not SPFI but it wouldn't surprise me if SPFI's were the same in that regard.