idosubaru

sweet phil, nice hit. i just picked up a set of LL Bean heated leather power seats as well.

can you post links to those conflicting sources? that GD gives such specific information should give some confidence in the actual differences and not just information that is being "guessed at" or regurgitated. if you can post links of conflicting stuff maybe we can figure out what is confusing about it and why. specifically addressing the conflicting info is much easier than trying to nail down a decade of interchangeability. be thankful that GD donates his time here....the asses are the knowledgeable folks out there that are not willing to help.

i may have a used one, i can't verify anything on it though...like 'really good' or low mileage.

i concur with that. as far as installing a timing belt, i remember thinking "what's all the fuss about this special tool" after my first one. wasn't hard at all, even the first time. as far as removing the cam bolt though, the tool would certainly be nice but i haven't needed one yet. i've used large pipe wrenches before - they work much better than those straps. i've had those straps slip before, they do work but are more annoying. the pipe wrench works every single time easily..of course you have to protect the sprockets.

XT's are always interchangeable from auto to manual, i imagine many EA82's would be as well. the 3AT (3 speed automatics) may differ though, but i would bet they're still the same as the manual. there's was one year in the mix that was a real goof ball...can't recall if that was EA81 or EA82 though, hopefully someone will pipe up - i think GD knows a lot about that.

the hole is 13/16" in diameter

WOW uni, that's a crazy one. i always replace that, Subaru calls it a "ring seal". that's not the "typical" torque converter seating 'trick' or 'issue' i'm speaking about. there is a certain amount of "seating" that needs to happen every single time that doesn't usually happen easily.

pretty sure they are a good bit different. but you might be able to make it work. you'd have to swap the pulleys and possibly the clutch as well. and make sure the a/c fittings are compatible. then hopefully mounting it is workable.

should be able to find all you need with a search of this forum, including where to buy those. they are not at all necessary. EJ22, EJ18, EJ25 DOHC, and EJ25 SOHC are all very easy to do without one. lots of information on doing that properly on here as well.

yes i could measure, engine will go in in the next couple days. memory guesses around 1/2". i think there's access to tap later. i have one NPT tap, doubt it's the right size. so measure tonight and find a tap tomorrow to do it before the engine install, do hardware stores usually carry a few sizes of NPT taps and do they carry the plugs as well? i've never heard of or seen the plugs?

awesome! good idea. will the plug leak or do they need sealant on the threads.

i've got a few EJ22's and EJ25's lying around and i see nothing similar on them. the hole/opening points towards the passengers side fender and has a pipe bolted to it that goes up to the intake manifold.

That explains it - that's not the right gasket. This is a small port opening 90 degrees to the exhaust flow. It's a small hole in the exhaust port of the head.

HOW DARE YOU - NO PICTURES@!!!! just kidding. thanks, i'll check that out. how did you find that, i couldn't get it to come up on the online parts places.

i didn't say they didn't work. i'm trying to protect the average guy from the headaches these things can cause. here's the key - if they do work, then any number of other, less problematic, methods would work. and without the risk of getting one of these extractors sheared off and stuck in the hole, then you're in for a real big mess. other machinists and professionals recommend what i'm saying (which i've learned through experience) as well, there's even websites on how to remove broken extractors that say just what im' saying...don't use them. i didn't say they don't work, just that they are unnecessary. and for noobs, or people that don't work much on cars, it's asking for trouble to expect them to use them properly or have high quality tools available.

one day i'll get around to tearing one apart. i still don't see how this all fits together. so it's the larger tube on the torque converter that needs to set properly? the ears of it slide into those two ears on the inside of the rotor in your picture? the tube on the torque converter shaft doesnt' seem long enough to go in very far.

do not use EZouts or screw extractors. they absolutely suck, you don't want one of those stuck in there when it shears off (which they do all the time). they are a really #*(&!*$& to remove. here's the important thing to remember about EZouts- they suck bad enough that "if" they actually would work, it won't be that hard to get out with many other means. do not use WD40, it's not helping you at all. you want Deep Creep, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (all available at many places...Lowes, auto parts stores, etc). douse it with this stuff, multiple times if you can. there are lots of options, can you post a picture? heat works wonders. heat all around the bolt immediately before trying to remove it. the idea is to expand the metal around the bolt, leave the bolt cool to help break the bond. is there any material left or is it flush? vice grips may work or a pipe-wrench. i can't see it, but if you cut a slot in the head you can use a screw driver to remove it. also welding a nut to the top and then using a socket may work. if it comes to drilling, use left handed drill bits. start with a very small one to help keep it centered then go up in size from there. the left handed drill bit will pull it out. i recommend high quality...whatever the best is, for this kind of work. forgot what i bought but they're cobalt..titanium...something very high quality i searched around for. they're awesome. this is a case where cheap drill bits get annoying and might not work.

will do.

yes WaW it's those ports on the outside of the exhaust ports, i'm blocking them off. i tried. i don't know the part number, talked to one of the parts people and they couldn't find it. that's what i will do, just checking if there's a simpler route.

i've bought gasket material before to make intake gaskets and such. is there any similar way to make a gasket for the exhaust ports of an EJ18 head? doubt the stuff i have is good for those temps. there's a hole there that i don't need that i'll be closing up. i'd rather have a gasket than just use RTV...but i suppose that's an option as well. would i be better off using straight RTV or RTV on both sides of the original gasket...which doesn't look horrible but is used and has some rust on the outer edges.

yes you have a front and rear differential and they both have their own fluids. what you don't need is the fuel cleaning service. that stuff is waaaaay overkill. if you wanted to do something, just buy a can of quality treatment to put in your gas at the next fill up - MMO is a good bet. otherwise in reality you are fine to leave it alone. all of those other items are good to have replaced. definitely have the automatic transmission fluid replaced if it's never been done. i'd do the others as well but i'd consider that one the most important. BUT - make sure you at least check the levels of the diffs.

get a Subaru thermostat, make sure it's installed properly and that you have properly purged all the air out of the system. EJ engines are prone to need "burping" as it's called to get air bubbles out of the system. also check for loss of coolant...if you're loosing coolant that could create loss of coolant, pressure, flow, etc...and all sorts of issues. you want to rule out something simple first because: of course the EJ25 (2.5 liter engine that's in your car) are prone to having head gasket issues. bubbling through the reservoir is a common symptom and they will exhibit bizarre behavior....overheat...then fine for awhile...overheat....etc, it will appear random.

engine, transmission, mileage?

the H6 probably won't differ by much. the trick to removing the crank pulley is getting the engine to stay put while backing the pulley out. that's all. even the EJ22's and Ej25's have a "special tool" but few use it because it's not necessary. do you know of the H6 is any different than any other subaru engine with regard to the crank pulley? all other subaru motors are the same essentially...each time a new motor came out, the same methods work...EJ22, EJ22, EG33..... here's tpyical ways of removing it on other vehicles and the H6 shouldn't be any different: manual: put the car in gear with the ebrake on and back the bolt off. automatic: there should be a plug to access the flexplate...has to be to get the flexplate bolts out. the flexplate will have holes in it that you can stick a socket extension in to keep the engine from turning over. remove bolt. and then the bump-the-starter-trick requires no tools or work at all, but if you're having problems doing this then that's probably not a good option for you.

she's probably condensing things. those tires may be fairly new...they could have been replaced two years ago and have 50 miles on them as well. they don't necessarily look high mileage to me. and it's possibly that only 2 were replaced. brake stuff rusts fast when it sits and is exposed so that's hard to say as well. and they likely didn't replace all 4 calipers and rotors, she's giving you the condensed version. if by "needs timing belt" means it needs fixed....then it won't likely sell for $1,200. if it's just due...which at 120,000 miles it is due for it's 3rd belt (every 60,000 miles) and it still actually runs, then she's got a much better chance of selling it. that will make the difference.