idosubaru

that one has been listed for a very, very long time. they keep relisting it, can't sell it. which is bizarre since i sold an older 97 GT Sedan in Pburgh a few months ago for more than that.

i did, i verified before installing which way to wire it...and then tried both ways anyway. worked fine off the car with direct battery power. it was bizarre and no need to diagnose now.

someone in cincinatti recently had his done for $500 (i thought he said at the dealer - he posted on the boards here about it). maybe you can get a better price? you can also run it in FWD - there are people doing that right now with torque bind. remove the rear driveshaft and just leave it FWD, that's free.

how do you know it's "not getting fuel to the intake?" i would like more "proof" that it's the fuel pump. a "new" fuel pump was installed? what kind? OEM or aftermarket? i installed an aftermarket fuel pump in my XT6 and it did not work, i still have not figured out why. stock - fine. aftermarket with a stock pigtail wired to it - didn't work. keep in mind - diagnosing and helping over the internet requires as many specific details as possible. we can't see, hear, touch or smell the thing. let us know exactly what you've done and how you know things don't work or do. plug the connectors together in the trunk (i forget whether it's green or black or both of them for diagnostic mode). the diagnostic connectors should cycle the fuel pump on every two seconds as a test. see if this happens and see if any fuel spits out the fuel hose in the engine bay. you can hotwire the fuel pump but do not drive it like this unless you're really good with electronics as it's dangerous. this would be for testing purposes only, but i've done it. i also saw one like this catch on fire before as well (it was an XT even!). check your fusible links, actually pull them out and inspect them for rigidity. if the battery is ever attempted to be jump started improperly you will fry a fusible link and run the risk of damaging the ECU as well.

magnecor wires rock, they're great stuff. worth a call if you want an entirely new set anyway. don't know if the EJ stuff is longer, but worth a call. i think you can call magnecor directly and talk to them.

if you're having drivability issues - on older Subaru's you can disconnect the O2 sensor and the car will drive fine, this might be worth a shot on yours to at least narrow down the O2 sensor and make it drivable until you get it fixed. wow what a lengthy mess, follow this next time:

the MAF is basically attached to the air filter box. super easy to locate and remove. find where the air filter housing is. the first and only electrical component the air flow through that attaches to the air filter box and intake tubing is the MAF. very easy...just simple tools to get it off. no special tools or equipment needed, just pop the hood. should take a couple minutes, that's it. air box is held on by clips, flip those back, then push the air box towards the engine and down to slide it past the inserts/tabs. after that it should be obvoius, just a screw drive or small ratchet/wrench to finish removing it. very easy. i only suggested unplugging the MAF out of curiosity, i forget what it should do but seeing how it behaves when disconnected verses connected might suggest something to us. don't get caught on that suggestion too much. not sure what is meant by the exhaust side. only sensor on the exhaust side of things is really the Oxygen sensor or possibly the EGR system related components. if that's the case then you might only need that $7 (US) little tiny in line filter. you'll notice on the passengers side of the engine a small round filter with a thin vaccuum hose connected to each side. when that gets clogged you start showing EGR related codes. might want to let us know the exact code so we're not guessing and talking about two different thigns like i just did!?!?!?

ha, ha, yeah they should have made a Legacy with no back seat!!!! those goofballs!

yes and yes no GD makes some excellent points - don't act like they ripped you off...i tend to be cynical since i get all the "i got hosed" problems from friends/family, and there's a lot of them. anyway, if they did indeed do this then like GD said splitting the transmission is a beast of a job. sort of a catch 22 so walk carefully. at this point the work is done and paid for not much you can do about it unless you want to dispute with your credit card and you probably don't have enough to go on to do that...ethically at least.

are you comparing results to a vanagon with a stock cammed EJ22? any idea of what the power/gas mileage differences may be?

what are you trying to do, your questions are vague. the XT was avaialbe as a nonturbo and a turbo...but there's no "turbo" upgrades for a non-turbo motor like you're probably thinking...but i don't know what you're thinking? there's no easy upgrades and putting a turbo on a 4 cylinder non-turbo XT is a real bad idea. best to tell us what yo'ure trying to do and what kind of resources you have. keep in mind - this is not a honda civic, so all sorts of easy, bolt on mods are not available. if that's what you're after this is not a good vehicle choice for you.

this should make you feel better. get your car out of the dealer. next time your CEL comes on DO NOT go to the dealer. go to Advanced, Auto Zone or any other major store that reads your codes for FREE. then post here and tell us what the code is (not what the person who pulled it thought the cause was). your MAF sensor can indeed cause horrible running. the air flow meter could be cleaned with some Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner, they have a specific cleaner for it at auto parts stores. if that does not work, do NOT buy one from the dealer. they fail so rarely that your best bet is a used one for $25-$50. on a side note if you pull it out and see that one of the hair thin wires inside the air passage is broken, then that tells you it is indeed bad. the old ones are like this, i can't remember if the newer ones are as simple to see, but they probably are. this is a hotwire style anemometer if you've ever taken any engineering labs or anything remotely similar. same idea - just check out the wires inside, best to remove it to do that (very, very easy). if you can do any manaul labor at all you can replace this. if for some strange reason you insist on getting a brand new one (bad idea), then buy one from one of the online parts suppliers, they are FAR cheaper. or ask your local dealer to match the online pricing, they will do that...then you'll be real PO'ed at those prices! now having the head gasket done at the dealer isn't a bad idea if you don't have a good independent to take it too. moral of the story - ask here as soon as you can when something happens...like the check engine light coming on. we'll save you some hassle, money, and the sticker shock! i'd be interested to know how the car will run with the MAF disconnected if it's faulty anyway. heck, you might want to check the plug just to make sure it's not bunged up.

i think you got hosed, but i have limited experience with this. the failed diffs i've seen do not do what you just said...they make LOTS of noise prior to failure and get worse with time. never seen (or heard of it happening) of a diff just working fine then "locking up" without any previous signs or noises. the main reason i think you got hosed on the diff as well is that the "stuck in gear" subaru's i have seen were not related to the front diff at all - but to the clutch itself. it was before i did this kind of in depth work that mine failed like this. i don't recall what the fix was but it wasn't expensive and was not the front diff.

i've seen bad sensors not throw the check engine light on XT6's. once was the coolant temperature sensor and once was the O2 sensor. both caused drivability issues, the CEL never came on and it worked. not sure why that can happen, but it does. both times the problem was directly fixed by replacing those parts. pay attention to the CTS - the sensors themselves on the older subaru's never actually fail. the connectors get corroded and dirty preventing a good connection. cleaning is the key. a new sensor often alleviates the problem temporarily because the contacts are clean...but the harness/connector is still dirty so it may come back rather quickly.

they are awesome, my favorite subaru since the XT6. they are a 1999 only model...though i think there's a very rare 98 or 2000 (forget which one) branded one as well. i'm essentially turning my Legacy LSi into one, i have a thread about the differences. it's essentially the paint scheme that makes most of the difference, at least in my opinion. higher stance which i don't want in this car. they have a hood scoop, different bumpers and i think most of them have leather interior and the wood grain trim as well. if it was an option, i see a much higher percentage of the SUS with these than other legacys like LS, LSi, and GT's. i have seen one without a hoodscoop, don't know if some were like that or it was a replacement from a wreck. i like maroon like the one pictured above and white, i'll probably go with white for mine just because it's easier to keep clean and i don't clean cars...often.

and you feel a binding going around turns too right, notable at slow speeds? your transmission harness does not sound like it is plugged in. check those plugs, they are located very close to the intake manifold harness plugs -the large plugs you have to pull to get the motor out. make sure those transmission plugs are all plugged in. if they are, pull them out and make sure none of the pins are bent. your TCU is not controlling your transmission at all and running in purely mechanical mode - which is 3rd by default. i am currently driving a car like this because something is wrong with the transmission system. be careful driving it much like this because i think you'll find you also have torque bind as the default mode of the rear transfer clutches is "locked", hence the binding around turns. glad you got it figured out. how freaking bizarre, great pictures! when they made all those changes, what a stupid idea not to incorporate the same parts!?!?

yikes, forgot that!

i've seen uglier paint jobs. leaving an oil cap off 'can' (not saying always) cause this as well (ask a firefighter), so there are some legit causes.

sounds like torque bind. the fluid has probably never been changed...or not enough, do that right now. WOW! crucial information. that's more important than anything else you said and is why i asked in my first post: it is likely something happened in the past to bring this on - mismatching tires, tires not being rotated, snows on the front, being towed improperly, fluid not changed or run low - etc.

okay then ivantruckman, good info. leave the front half of the shaft in place (if the EA81 is like the EA82/ER27 and has a two piece shaft). or cover it up with something sturdy and stout so oil doesn't come out. being under pressure the automatic really pushes fluid out fast, don't think the manuals are under as much pressure/volume in the rear.

why is it called a "rocker panel"?

sounds like torque bind, i agree with skip that you should check into that. how long has it been doing this? i am very doubtful that your rear axles are causing this, though i'm not saying it's impossible. i never replace rear CV half shafts and i've never had them break, cause noise or vibrations. i've put 100,000+ miles on broken boot rear axles. my current ride has about 40,000 miles and both rear axles have torn boots...though i have new axles ready to go since the crushed coal they use on the roads in the mountains really screws with cv joints.

how you do it depends slightly on which 5 speed transmission you're putting in it. but you shouldn't have a problem keeping it driveable. find a used shaft for cheap or borrow one. i've lent or given away driveshafts before even. ask some people you know? or...just drive it in FWD. with the rear driveshaft removed all you have to do is put it in 4WD and it will run fine. i've done this before with automatics and manuals. on the automatics you have to have a cap or leave the front half of the driveshaft in place or fluid comes out. i can't remember if the manual transmissions are the same, it's been a few years since i've done that with one of those.

the center diff is inside the transmission. they can be replaced, someone had a dealer do it in the midwest...Cincinnati i believe recently for $500. i think they said it's replaceable without dropping the trans, but that's just from memory i've never done it. i'd probably just replace the transmission myself. a transmission gear oil change is not a bad idea. fluid changes help the automatics with torque bind more than the manuals, but i would do one right away, it's too easy not too. some people try "concoctions" like Lucas or other additives with it, you can do a search on the board for "torque bind" and find out all sorts of information. keep in mind you'll want to read the manual transmission related stuff as the auto's and manuals have completely different failure modes and systems...just the symptoms are similar. some questions: have you or do you ever feel it binding around turns? that should be noticeable. what's the history here? how long has it been doing this and has it gotten worse? i don't think this is it but ball joints can also cause nasty vibrations around turns, if it was one of those or the cv i would expect it to vary based on speed, turn radius, etc...at least in the beginning. CV's have multiple failure modes, not just clicking. a bad DOJ (even with the boot in tact with no clicking) can cause serious vibrations and no noise. though i think they will usually vibrate while driving straight too.....maybe someone else can answer if they'll only vibrate around turns.

maybe that slop in the axle helped some of the wear and tear on the trans? what a bone head, you'd think he would realize that's a problem.