idosubaru

what nipper said - accessory belts are not typically 100,000+ mile items and the load put on them varies tremendously on alternator and air conditioner condition and useage.

"dual range" has nothing to do with this as a strict comparison. i guess it does if you're talking about dual range because that's what you already have. in terms of snow driving there's no difference between the old school dual range and single range transmissions or the XT6 AWD transmissions, they will have the same performance for what you're talking about. and the XT6 transmission is an AWD transmission, but it has a center differential lock. so are you asking about the differences between EA versus EJ (no center diff lock)? the key is the ability to lock the center differential, which is definitely better in the snow. any EA manual trans allows you to do that, the newer AWD does not. in the snow driving i've done the EJ transmissions are nice but there is no comparison to having a locked diff. EA (or ER - XT6) manual transmissions are superior in the snow/off road considering you can actually lock the differential. for the newer EJ stuff i think it sucks they don't have the ability to lock the center diff. with the automatics you can funtionally "lock" the rear transfer clutches using the duty C switch mod. in that case the automatics outperform the manuals considering you can lock them which you can't in the manuals. speaking of differentials, the clutch style are better than the viscous style for the "stuck verses unstuck" situations you're talking about in the snow. to be master of snow, snow tires will be a far better investment and safety upgrade over the differences between dual range and AWD.

hold on, this might be a simple fix. i've seen the bolts jump over tabs before...can't really explain it too well.....but it could be just as easy as putting it back how it's supposed to be, 'ive done it before. first time it was easiest for me to pull both drivers side and passengers side door panels to see how things are supposed to line up. by comparing the two it was obvious that the one bolt/stopper/plastic tab thing (sorry, i know nothing about the right names for these parts), but it wasn't lined up right, it was as if the stopper was jumped. i loosen one bolt enough to bend or turn the stopper out of the way to bring the window where it should be and all was good. very easy fix.

yep, far easier to just buy one with AWD but it certainly is possible. a 95 subaru can be found so cheap it's just not worth all that effort. you could make an a$$load of money in the time it would take to source all of those parts and do the conversion. very high opportunity costs. but it is possible.

it's not in the bumper is it?

hey! i just know myself - i suck and hate doing wiring work of any kind and know others do too. i don't even like wiring a freaking switch, so an engine swap like this is painful. some people like it though, oh to be them for a day!

oh sweet - passengers or drivers side? is it easy to see under there?

i agree but it depends why the person is asking. if they're thinking an STi engine in their soob would be cool, then it's probably not going to happen. i assume they're hoping it's really easy and cheap, so best to let them know the custom nature of the job. if they are serious it's unlikely they needed to ask in the first place. given he didn't ask about any specific information or questions i am guessing he is not well versed in swapping engines.

how much do you trust this mechanic? a second opinion is not a terrible idea. it does sound like the engine is trashed if what the mechanic said is remotely true. the part about a copper bushing sounds like complete nonsense to me, but maybe something is lost in the translation. you could have a used engine swapped in for around the $1,200 range.

distributor alignment pictures were posted in this thread: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=86635#86635 problem is it looks like the pictures are not available right now for some reason. not sure what happened, but i posted a message to the original poster of the photos, hopefully he can re-post them for you? this is the easiest way to get them right.

okay so this is an 87 GL EA82T. first thing is to verify the distributor is lined up properly. that's probably all it is. something i am not sure of but you might want to consider is if the distributor is the right one. there are some wiring differences across 1987 models that gets confusing. not sure if that's XT related only or not, but i think there are other oddities across other models then as well. i know ECU's and wiring are flakey, the distributors may be as well.

i didn't respond because i don't have anything good to say, nothing you want to hear. my recommendation is to not base business decisions on responses you get to this thread. price depends on many things, particularly the market and how you plan to enter the market. the quicker you want to sell the less your price will likely be. the more marketing you can do the better. i don't think this is an ideal market place for the feedback you're looking for either.

yes it's possible and it's probably been done. been done to a justy, can't imagine a GL has never been attempted. plan on it being a stand-alone job without much help though. this will be mostly custom work with lots of custom wiring and fabricating, nothing will be easy about it. but yeah, it's possible. you can put a V8 in there if you want.

the original intake manifold stayed with the vehicle? your distributor is the issue then. this being the case we need to know what vehicle this is going in (specifically the ECU and wiring harness which should be orginal to the vehicle right?). and we need to know what distributor you are using. the EA82T distributor's may not be as interchangeable as you would think.

i think that's where you'll find the most information on this. it all comes down to cash, with enough resources yes it can be done. the stock transmission and driveline is going to start falling apart though with this kind of use. the transmission will not likely take it for very long and that strain will be passed throughout the rest of the components as well. spend some time on other sites and you'll see plenty of WRX transmission shreading threads. and you still have semantics to consider, do you want the car driveable after that track run? how many miles? are you going to rebuild after every track run? upgrading the ECU? exhaust, pump fuel, EGT's, intercoolers, turbo, intake, fuel controllers???...and on, and on, and on...there's a lot to consider and i think you'll learn more at NASIOC about all of this. that you're asking such open ended questions seems to almost answer the question itself...no, it's not going to happen. if you're really going to do this and understand engines then you should have a good idea of what this kind of project is going to take if you're that determined to hit those kinds of numbers. if you don't know much of this stuff then read all you can at NASIOC and check out Corky Bell's book.

huck and moody say the late 90's OBS has an LSD center diff of some sort. just regurgitating though, i have no idea.

it is bizarre, i hvae seen improper timing belt instructions i think for the XT6 timing belt...i guess the Chiltons (only one available)? the FSM even has a few errors, but not in regards to timing belts of course!

your distributor and/or timing belts are not lined up properly. lining up the distributor is a real pain if you're not really familiar with EA82's, the best advice i can suggest is to have someone post a picture of the relation of the distributor to something else....like when the cam is lined up at 12 oclock with the timing mark. the zero mark on your timing mark is ONLY used for ignition timing with a timing light. it is not used or needed for lining up the timing belts, so for the mechanical timing (timing belts), then no that is not the mark you want.

everything you're using now is original to the vehicle, no parts have been swapped? are you positive the distributor is lined up properly? it needs to be exactly right, if it's one slot off it'll do exactly what you're saying. are you sure the timing belt marks are lined up dead on? they can not be one tooth off. you may have a vaccuum leak somewhere? have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake manifold and hoses? have you adjusted the timing properly...keeping in mind the car needs to be at operating temperature with connectors plugged in at the ECU in the trunk. either the green or black plugs need to be plugged in when adjusting the timing, i forget which ones, i think it's the green ones but someone here can clarify.

you have to define "withstand". there's a big difference between a daily driver and racing...and everything in between. as well as what style of driving to be done, whether you want 200,000 or 50,000 miles out of it. and how much you're putting into it?? the more you bump it, the more risk you incur...so where do YOU draw the line, where other people tell you? there's no magic line where at 498 they all last forever then at 498.1 they all of a sudden blow up the first time you start them. the questions you're asking are very subjective and vague. NASIOC is probably a good source...there's guys building 400+ horsepower engines over there. you're asking a ton of questions that are very similar in scope, i think searching google, here, and other sites (like NASIOC) and reading as much as you can about subaru options should give you a well rounded base to start from. i guess i sound like a party-pooper but i feel like you're shooting in the dark in a way.

no problem. this may have weakend the axle in the first place.

i would contact MWE and order an axle from them or get a Subaru axle (used from a yard or from Subaru). aftermarket axles are junk. you could probably even post in the Parts wanted forum here and get a hit. i can't stress how rare it is for a rear axle to fail, they are a dime a dozen to find used because they just don't break. you could have a differential or transmission (center diff) issue as well. a rear diff problem should have been accompanied by noises prior to this happening and the center diff should have been accompanied by torque bind prior to this happening as well. do a search on here for "torque bind" to see if those symptoms are charateristic of anything you've had. hopefully you rotate your tires and keep a matching set on there. you need to for these 4WD transmissions.

i have a 1996 Legacy GT without a canister and a 1997 Impreza OBS automatic without one as well (although two other identical impreza's did have one). i'm about to install one of them in my Legacy LSi that did have a canister. this one actually doesn't have EGR either so i will definitely have something to deal with.

well technically it varies by state and some states you can only swap the exact engine that was originally in there. but they do not check or verify that, ever. you get tested (emissions or whatever your state does) and you either pass or fail and come back to try again another day. that's why people do motor swaps all the time, not just in Subaru's, because it's not a law that is applied.

does the check engine light ever come on? does it always do it - cold and warm? did you use Subaru ignition wires? maybe you (or car!) has bad gas? i highly doubt it's a fuel injector.