idosubaru

more likely scenario isn't adjustment, but that the window actually popped out of alignment. this is going to be very difficult to explain in words and not knowing all the little parts. but towards the front of the door is a catch mecahnism...a stopper of sorts. the part that catches this can jump over it, such that it doesn't actually catch it anymore and the window will appear out of alignment and loose. you need to loosen or remove one bolt for this catch and turn it properly and retighten. unfortunately it's usually only one window, you're in a real pickle here. the easiest way to check things out is to remove both door panels and have a look at all the little components and stoppers and such. but since both are bad you can't compare like that. and i don't know how different the rear windows are, never worked on one. anyway, i've found that this happens in cold weather. ice/snow will cause the window to stick to the vehicle and when you pull it open, it bends or forces the glass such that the stoppers will hop over where they're supposed to be. there's my terrible terminology, i don't know jack about power windows but i have fixed a few. of course this is for vehicles with no frame, just glass resting against the veihcle. i'm not sure what an 01 impreza has - just glass or frame too?

depends on the shop and what they're doing, you can be really cheap and just replace the clutch disc or replace everything that should be replaced with a clutch job. pilot bearing, throw out bearing, 2 clutch retaining clips, pressure plate and clutch disk. a good clutch kit will have most of those things, probably not the clips. rough guess for mechanic $500-$700 assuming you're not going the ultra cheap route. this job can easily be done in a day. there's no mechanic that would take a day to do this job. figure on a long day for your first time. if you really wanted to do it in a day and you want the flywheel machined (i almost always do that) you might want to consider buying a used flywheel and having it machined at a machine shop prior to doing the work, that way it's there ready to go once the engine is out. it beats trying to run there when the motor is already out, you don't have a vehicle to drive and you have to wait on the shop...and they're not going to be open on weekends. the only real tricky parts are separating the engine from the trans and reinstalling it to the trans. just have to get everything lined up right to go where you want it. may help to have someone who's done it before or at least access to the internet (here!) while yo'ure doing it. we can give you tips for that, everything else is fairly straight forward. the biggest question is that of an engine lift to yank the engine. you will need one of those. you can buy them new for $200, used for less and rent them for $25 a day. the quickest method possible is pulling the transmission, but that's difficult for your first time and without any help. it's also very awkward working under the vehicle and reinstalling by yourself unless you have a good transmission jack or adpater plates...which you probably don't have. i would definitely not recommend this method to a first timer. the nice thing is you can have the transmission out in 30 minutes where the engine takes 2 hours. what it might take a first timer to do: 3 hours to pull engine (i had one out a couple weeks ago in 2 hours) 2 hours to swap parts 3 hours to reinstall 2 hours for annoying hang ups! 10 hours total.

duh duh duh duuuuuhhhhh it's time, hope you're ready! good luck and have fun!

ah ha, a spring? i definitely don't have a spring on it, nor do i remember every having one. thanks J.

yep, the quickest *possible* way period is pulling the transmission. but, i say *possible* because the caveat to that is tools and patience. in the same way that pulling an engine would be very difficult without an engine lift, it's best to have a good jack or suitable method of holding/stabilizing the transmission (adapter plate, transmission jack, straps, extra people helping). it can be done by yourself, but for the first timer this takes time to figure out if you don't have these things. the trans can be out in 30 minutes. but reinstalling the trans is the tricky part, this is where tools/experience come into play. and you're working on the ground, on your back, over your head. pulling the engine keeps thing easier and simpler. so yeah, it can be quicker and easier, just depends what kind of equipment selection you have. it seems engine lifts and familiarity with them is more prominent than transmission jacks or adapter plates or loads of friends wanting to help, so that's why most people pull engines. the EJ25's come out fairly easy though, they're not too bad. leave the hood on and don't touch the intake manifold, not necessary.

so you're going right? sounds like the perfect opportunity to teach that friendships are more important than celebrities!

nice call svxpert. i would want the separator and gasket replaced for sure. the rear main will likely never fail, it's the least likely seal to leak in a subaru going all the way back to their EA82 engines in the 80's even. it's easy to see if it's seeping or not, it's either dry or wet since it's so clean inside the bellhousing typically. but while you're there it's not a bad idea. it's about 30 minutes to do both of those. the suggestion that they're charging based on engine removal required sounds very plausible. my guess is they're going to stick to the books though and one of their mechanics will be very happy about that job since they get paid by the job, not time.

i like posts like this where the OP never comes back but the thread grows and grows......

i got your email, looks like you're set up. feeling nice and confident now!?!?

the graphite seal you mentioned will be the same as the "ring seal" i mentioned. my recommendation isn't necessarily to "not replace" the rear main. but make very sure it's seating properly and everything is done exactly right if you do decide to replace it. there are a number of examples of people having them leak after installing a new one. be very careful installing the torque converter in the transmission. if you've already got them, practice now well ahead of time. don't wait until the install. seating the TC the last 1/4" is tricky business and is hard to tell if it's fully seated or not. using the TC bolts to draw the TC and flexplate together = destroying your new trans. happens often (relatively speaking, it's not like that many trans get replaced). there's good info on this board about seating the TC, there was a recent thread about it and i got emails. search button will help you here.

for real, i was thinking the same thing. particularly in the snow/rust/salt/coal areas. i'm surprised i haven't had to replace them in my OBS yet. part number note: 1990-1999 Legacy (except 99 GT and Outback) 26740AA001 The wagon and sedan sensors are different, showing a different part number. that's bizarre.

any subaru motor will fit, so get the newest/faster WRX STi motor.

howdy, i'm from just outside of Westminster, MD just down the road from you. i used to drive past R-town for work. you'll need all the wiring and ECU to make this work, you know that right?

that makes perfect sense, seems like what it shoudl have looked like, but didn't. how does it get so chipped up on the end?

xt6 is down right now so that's jacked up.

legacy with hydraulic clutch mechanism. the engine vibrates some and the piston of the hydraulic cluch mechanism rubs against the clutch fork, making a light noise occassionally. is it supposed to be tighter than that? everything runs and works perfectly otherwise. doesn't appear to be any adjustment to it...but i bet 'im wrong?

how did you know the tone ring was bad? are these sensors available aftermarket or dealer only? thanks kids, i'll replace it.

i don't mean to be captain obvious here, but let's talk about the elephant in the room that everyone else is avoiding. what do you expect to see in the hospital? broken people that need help. when people have problems with a subaru, where do they come, USMB. that you see many posts is a tribute to many things, not necessarily the deficiency of a subaru. i'd attribute it to good management, good people, and knowledgable folks willing to help. don't see that on many other boards. dont' know about where you live but 4WD trucks are very expensive around my parts. and american cars suck monkey nuts for reliability. not too mention i hate trucks as daily drivers anyway. and i say that not out of jealousy or desire, because i own a full size ford and it sucks on gas, sucks in the rain, handles horrible, and i hate driving it in parking lots, cities, long distance, there's no trunk, someone can break into it....i love it for other reasons but i'd hate a truck for a daily driver. i use it as needed. japanese manufacturers tend to have excellent products capable of reliability for cheap. that's appealing to many people particularly when you can get very capable 4WD with it. welcome to older Subaru's.

98 legacy GT sedan. it had codes 22 and 24 (front left and right ABS sensor codes). i pulled them and both had tons of metal flakes all over them. cleaned them up, cleared the ABS light and the ABS light is no longer on but the ABS will activate under light braking some times. when cleaning, i noticed the front passengers side ABS sensor seemed corroded or damaged at the tip, just didn't seem nice and machined, though i don't know what a brand new one looks like. could this be causing the problem?

that won't hurt the struts at all. i off roaded my old daily driver a ton and i've never lost a strut in 100's of thousands of miles of XT6 air suspension madness. snow, mud, i've buried my XT6 a few times where mud/water is pouring in the door when i get out....etc. so yeah i've hit it with some off road dirtiness. the strut is just an air bag. clean them occassionally for good measure. read my thread on air strut maintenance and you'll see the weak spot of the struts, what causes them to fail early and how to prevent it. off roading will exacerbate that, so read up and keep them clean.

don't know much about legacy air suspension. the XT6 air suspension is awesome...or i should say, i really, really like. i have some detailed information and pic's on how to recondition your struts. do that to decent struts and replace all of your o-rings and the system isn't all that bad. actually i ran my last daily driver to 220,000 miles and retained the air suspension the entire time (owned since 105,000) without ever replacing anything...i don't think i did anyway, a compressor at most. i've never had to replace an air strut. i drove that vehicle off road quite a bit. the problem is there are o-rings every where. 5 at the air compressor, two in the air tank, one at each front strut and two at each rear strut (and there are different sizes). having an extra complete air suspension for parts is nice too, i'd hate to have mine break down and nothing to go on, even though that hasn't happened yet. address all of those things and system reliability increase DRAMATICALLY. the problem is, very few people do that or want to or have a need to. in the XT6 it's worth it to me, i really dig the air suspension and like being able to play with it. but for most people, i'd suggest converting as it can be a real PITA to mess with. particularly with legacy stuff, decent struts are probably a dime a dozen for that vehicle, i'd be much more prone to convert it coil overs. the XT6 is rather messy to convert and get a solid ride out of it. and that hassle isn't worth the loss of flexibility for me.

EA81 or EA82 and what vehicle? fusible link or bad ground. the fusible link box is inside the engine bay of most soobs, by the battery in a little box. pull each one and check it. they can hold together but still be in bad shape, need to pull back the sheating and have a look if that's the case. or just swap in some good ones. did you test the battery? how good were the jumper cables? badly rusted or cheap ones sometimes don't work so well (i have a pair that i really want to shoot at times that i just need to send to the dumpster).

that's how they all are, just because you can see them doesn't mean anything. most EA and ER series heads have these cracks and they are all very visible, they look horrible. did they confirm the cracks were causing the leaks? cracks between the valves and up in the exhaust ports? wow, this thing gets seriously worked doesn't it!

oh man, that's a good call, but annoying to fix. any way that he can test it? check it with the front end off the ground, ie unloaded?

i wouldn't go with surge brakes myself. i'd go with electric.