idosubaru

they don't now, but the older ones used to and they're nearly identical in many respects to the newer ones. like i said, i've done it to auto's and manuals. manuals, same story, no difference. the transmission has internal bits, center diff on manuals, and rear extension housing on auto's, that don't magically disappear when you run it in FWD. added weight and added losses to the rotating works. if you want good gas mileage, get a FWD manual soob. they are out there, or they can be made to suit, and are capable of 35-45 mpg depending what models/trans you want. playing with your AWD soob to get a 0.04% increase in gas mileage is not the ticket, there's an option out there but you're looking in the wrong place.

thoughts - let me do all of that for far less. i'll do it for half the dealer cost. maryland dealer quoted my cousin $699 for a timing belt change. $1,400 is way high. i did it for her for far less. a timing belt costs about $70, water pump not much more so they're making some serious loot for a couple hours of work. but you also have to make sure you're comparing apples to apples...is that just the water pump and timing belt or does that include any tensioners or timing belt pulleys? that should also include the oil pump seals and checking the oil pump backing plate screws while they're in there, it's right behind the timing belt, which as you can guess must come off to install a new belt! $600 for rear pads and rotors is definitely rediculous. unless you have vibration when braking, you only need the rear pads. yes they'll give you some BS horror story, but there's no way your soob needs new rotors unless something really crazy happened. rear pads are less than a $100 and take about 30 minutes to install...so you do the math, they're making about $1000 per hour. and it wouldn't surprise me if they didn't replace the rotors, but charged you for them since yours are fine. but...even if they did replace them that's still too much. $600 for valve cover gaskets and wires also seems way high. are these the right figures and are you including everything they're including? seems outrageous, but i guess that's why some of the DC area mechanics make 6 figures.

a machine shop will install all three in an entire driveshaft for $100 and that's in an expensive part of the country, so might be able to get it done elsewhere cheap. that's for all 3, cheaper for just one. a driveshaft/driveline shop with lots of off road experience might be better set up, random machine shops may or may not want to mess with it. if you do it yourself, be careful cutting, it's easy to nick the yoke depending what kind of tool you use. and it would be best to talk to any jeep guy or someone that knows how u-joints work, has done some work with them before. there's some trickery in persuading the yoke and end caps to seat properly and get the ujoint feeling nice and smooth when it's done, particularly on a custom install like this. you might be able to find more information in the older generation forum as the older driveshafts are nearly identical in principle, but they fail far more often because they're older and have more miles. so there's more experience there and i know it's been covered before. but....previous poster pretty well covered everything.

is cleaner helps immediately, it'll completely cause problems down the road. the pins need grease, cleaner will wipe it away. you need to remove the caliper and see what's happening. either the pins need greased or the caliper is sticking. caliper rebuild kits can be bought for a couple dollars and rebuilding the calipers is REALLY easy. blow the piston out, clean it all out, replace the only seal in the entire thing...one seal around the piston bore, then the new boot and clip and you're done. calipers are really simple. the most annoying part of the entire job is bleeding the brakes when you're done. or buy a new/used caliper and be on your way. if rebuilding it for your first time, buy a used one and install it and rebuild your old one for practice.

i think the FSM says to pump them up by hand and install them. i've never had great luck getting them fully pumped up, but i just soak them in a bag of oil and pump them by hand while submerged, then install them. use engine assembly lube everywhere...all over the cam and such. at start up you may here some light tapping, oil will flow through at start up and pressurize everything properly. on the EA and ER series engines you can run the oil pump with a drill, or by hand and flow oil through the engine without ever starting it, which is nice, but the EJ series oil pump is integrated with the crank.

i've disabled the AWD and even removed parts of the drivetrain. i've done it due to failing u-joints, rear diffs, or other issues and have driven for extensive periods of time like that, so i've seen what it does and does not do to gas mileage. first of all, disabling AWD does not increase MPG. i've done it on automatics and i've done it on manuals. i've disabled the AWD, i've even removed the driveshaft and rear differential from the vehicle and driven it like that. still no increase in gas mileage even with driveshaft and rear differential removed. like nipper said, why bother or risk component damage and the effort working on or worrying about it for little if any possible gain? now, i've told you the end result on multiple vehicles, both automatic and manuals that i've done this too over the years. i'll let everyone else who's never done it debate if it saves gas or doesn't and all they why's and why not's about it. and like others have said, this gets talked about alot and is easily covered with the search function. what you'll get either by searcing or posting a new thread is lots of oppinions.

you next timing belt won't be until well beyond 200,000 miles, now is the time to replace or at the very least, inspect, every timing belt pulley in there if you plan on keeping the car for while. water pump, oil pump seals and check the oil pump backing plate, and the cam seals. it's a bit of a gamble to expect the original timing pulleys to make 200,000 or 300,000 miles, they loose grease and will eat your timing belt...which on your interference motor will cause major engine damage.

head gasket issues are reported to be addressed some time in 2003, exact date unknown (publicly at least). if that concerns you at all, go with '04. if you think about purchasing a 2003 or earlier, check into the extended subaru warranty, i'm not sure what years it applies to but they warranty the head gasket for some year vehicles to 100,000 miles.

wow! that's the last thing i thought it would be. guess this goes in the for sale section, can't imagine ever needing it.

I thought this seal was an XT6 crank seal, but it's not....or i don't think it is. Subaru OEM part number 806742110 Oil Seal 42x60x9 i looked it up online but it just says "oil seal" it's not a rear main, it looks to be about the size of an EA82 crank seal, but looks a tad bigger unless this one i just removed shrank?

you also say it won't let you put it into "drive"...but you can put it in other gears? or the shifter doesn't move at all? if the shifter moves, but takes awhile to actually engage you need to check your fluid level immediately. if that's not the problem then your internal oil pump seals may be leaking. if you can't move the shifter at all...then read what's already been suggested.

1992 Loyale SPFI PT4WD, EA82 while doing a timing belt job for a friend of mine i broke the cylinder off the end of that sensor behind the thermostat housing. is that the AAV or canister purge solenoid? i have to wait for a crank seal to be ordered tomorrow so i can't test drive it until i get the timing belts back on. what is this and will the car drive until i get another? i searched but since the database won't support three letter searches (AAV) it's hard to find much.

not normal. definitely check your owners manual, it should mention something related to the shifter lock. address it now while you can still drive it. eventually whatever is faulty now may fail later. haven't been in a 95 Legacy, how exactly is it set up to shift? is there a button at all? try clicking the button or shaking the shifter multiple times while attempting to move it.

a new PCV valve may slow down the leaking some. use Subaru only on that part. i'd replace the easy stuff - the cam seals and monitor the oil level. if you're not loosing a significant amount then i'd leave the separator plate for awhile, they typically seap and don't leak significant amounts. it could also be the rear main seal, though they rarely leak from the factory. or if you're paying someone big dollars to replace those $5 cam seals, then maybe you can live with that minor amount of leakage as well. the cam seals are located directly behind the timing belt, so it's nice to time those for replacement at the same time. in other words if you timing belt is due in 20,000 miles, just replace the cam seals at the same time. or if you go in to do the cam seals now, have the timing belt done as well, since it has to come off anyway. there's zero extra labor for installing a new belt, except removing it from the box! and some epoxy on the garage floor might help so you can wipe up the drippage!

there's a resistor pack, usually located next to the blower fan. you will find your problem there. there's a small chance that the selector contacts are malfunctioning, but that's very unlikely.

at 200,000 miles you better hope the head gaskets have been replaced if a $1,500 repair would annoy you after purchase. that car has the 2.5 liter engine with headgasket issues, there's no need to cover it here, just type in "headgasket" using the search button on this forum and you'll see it all. i've seen a couple outback wagons with 200,000 miles for $1,000 very recently, so seems over priced but it's certainly dependant on your area and need.

those diff end caps are supposed to be set precisely from what i've heard john in KY and others that know what they're talking about say. MDJC just posted on the older generation forum about replacing the seals inside of those caps, so you might want to check his thread out. he's the only guy i've heard of that's actually removed them before to replace his seals. gotta roll, but i've seen a few others talk about this too, but it's been awhile.

that very rarely works for me. northeast rust and weather, i don't know, but i tried that. didn't even come close to busting them loose even while adding pressure to the already tightened belt. pulley just spun inside the belt.

the one without studs in the picture CAME with studs, they're just not on it in the picture i took so the "stud" versus "non-stud" variety just confuses me at this point. they both have studs. what do you mean by "long pump" and "shorter pump"? they are both the same overall length. does "long" mean, longer shaft? it's a1992 loyale with the A/C condensor between the alternator and P/S pump - Dealer installed air. So based on that, you're saying i need the "longer pump". which is what i "thought" i was buying. the funny thing is that the auto parts store lists them by "hub height", i bought the one with the higher hub height. 4 5/16 or 4.320, i bought the larger one and it's not right...so that's why i was asking what the "Hub height" exactly is since that's how the store designates them. hub height has to be the length...4"+.....not making sense.

complete non-issue to you. 2006 is way beyond the headgasket issues, fixed circa 2003. i have word from a source close to subaru that can't be named, but is highly respected and affluent in the ways of soobs, that the confirmed date of affected vehicles ends in 2003. he assures me that there are significant numbers of 2003 models with issues hitting the dealer shop floors.

i attached a picture of the removed 1992 Loyale Water pump, next to the other water pump. The disc the pulley bolts to is in a different position, so i need the *other* pump. i read elsewhere, but didn't seem to sure about it, that either pump can be used if the correct pulley is used with it.

if they're working properly then time is probably not that important. as long as possible, as long as they're out of the engine probalby isn't a bad idea. but i've never noticed that 5 days buys you any more than 2. if you take your heads in to get done, the machine shop might just hot tank them for you. there's a place that sells rebuilts for $5 each, you could search for them on the older generation forum. Mitpah Engineering...but i always spell it wrong. search for "engineering" maybe.

having new hoses and clamps or at least checking them is very helpful for driving without issues. after 20 years clamps are iffy. throw extra parts somewhere, alternator, coil, fusible links, water pump, necessary tools.... before an SHO is road-trip worthy it needs to have the cam gears welded in place, the one that wobbles loose. this is a very common SHO problem, check google for more. and it causes massive damage when it comes loose.

i went through multiple searches and threads reading about this, and it didn't cover some things. when specifying which EA82 water pump you "think" you need, what exactly is the hub height refering too? is it the distance the shaft extends from the face of the part the pulley mounts to? and why doesn't any of the parts stores around here carry the longer hub height one for a 1992 loyale and it takes them 3 or 4 days, special order to ship it in? are they that uncommon? they have the other one in stock or can get it the next day. if you get the associated water pump pulley can you use either one on any engine?

don't force them. if they get hard to turn while loosening them, tigthen them down a bit. work it back and forth, back and forth. this will free up the corrossion down in there. if you're lucky enough to get it to come up even a millimeter off the manifold, spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (not WD40) down the shaft of the bolt. the point is to get some down inside the bolt hole, not on the bolt. this works most of the time. and yes it's a serious pain to work with them once they shear off. i would also suggest not trying to remove them when the car is hot...although maybe that's a good time to try for some reason i'm not aware of.