idosubaru

you will be fine to wait until spring. a rear boot won't be making any noise by then unless you go bury the car in mud....even then mine never do and i've done that on multiple occassions as well. i always wait until a brake job, or installing an LSD..some other major work before wasting my time on an axle. it'll give you time to source a good Subaru axle as well. don't buy an aftermarket POS. i'm headed to Denver in two days and im' taking two XT6 axles with me to MWE, they're listed in the Vendor Forum and rebuild Subaru axles if you want to check them out. me either, that is an interesting experiment to do though, the TCU gets very confused in an XT6.

i would never consider doing it, but the rack and lines would swap easily. the pump would be the issue...nowhere to bolt it and would have to figure out mounting, new belts/pulleys.... but i would never do it. the XT6 power steering, while over engineered is nearly flawless in my experience. i've put probably 300,000 miles on XT6's and have never done anything but replace the brushes (very easy). i have an extra power controller and computer if i ever needed, got a few actually. but never have. they are very easy to replace anyway if i ever needed too. i'm all about ditching the belt and having it electric. iwhich is why i converted my XT Turbo EA82T to XT6 power steering. replaced the EA82T XT Turbo rack, lines and pump with all XT6 stuff.

thanks huck!

for axle nuts, 3/4" sockets are the way to go. i went through the hassle of breaking multiple 1/2" sockets, break bars and brands for a long time. i finally upgraded to a 3/4" socket wrench and slide a long freaking pipe (3 or 4 foot) over the handle. well worth the investment. no more broken parts and makes the job very easy.

i've never seen anyone on the XT6 groups deciper this and i don't know either. it is said that the seals in the pump go bad if you use the wrong type of fluid. i have never had that happen (i always use the right stuff), but that's what i've heard. the XT6 does not have a belt driven power steering pump. it's an electrical pump dedicated to the XT6 only. so it's completely unrelated to any other power steering pump. the pump is controlled by a power controller and computer. the power assist is varied dependant on vehicle speed and steering sensor input. it has various modes of operation dependant on a few driving variables.

EJ25 would bolt up just fine, it's a direct swap minus some very minor power steering and a/c bracket stuff. very easy, plug and play. bolts up and plugs in. the EG33....i'll point a good friend to this thread that has done extensive work on the EG33, including swapping it into another subaru. the wiring is certainly the biggest PITA, but otherwise this motor will bolt directly to your transmission and i'm almost positive the motors mounts won't be an issue either.

best to stick to that XT6 specific power steering fluid unfortunately. if someone has it, have them mail it to you in a soda bottle or something (tell them the soda is on you). before pouring in this "liquid gold" i'd make sure you check for leaks. usually the smaller rubber hose with clamps is the one prone to leaking. being that's it's off the shelf hosing that costs a couple quarters, i'd go ahead and replace it before adding any of this stuff. if it's low, it's low for a reason. it doesn't just disappear or go down due to normal usage like brake fluid does. there are only like 40 or 50 bottles left in the US i believe. i bought like 4 of them once i found out.

okay, cool, excellent questions....let's see if the no replacement for displacement might be the best option for you: you might want to consider an EG33 (6 cylinder SVX) engine. 230 hp stock, non turbo Subaru EJ series that will bolt right up to your transmission. they are excellent engines by the way, very reliable and functionally non-inteference with 230 hp stock. that's almost 100 more hp right out of the box with no modifications. being an EJ series it'll bolt right up to your transmission and i'm almost positive the engine mounts will even drop into place. these engines can be found fairly inexpensively. the pluses are tons more hp and it bolts right up to your trans, no turbo, non-interference and reliable. the wiring harness install and the length of the engine are the major obstacles. have to check on those. you could also install a 2.5 engine. they put out 165 hp...i think that's 25 hp more than an EJ22. might be best to start with one of those. 2.2's and 2.5's are interchangeable, even down to the wiring. an EJ22 plugs right into an EJ25 wiring harness. that's an instant 25 hp. install the lightened goodies before dropping it in and sell your EJ22 to recoupe some costs.

i'd wonder if that wasn't a previously replaced aftermarket axle. subaru axles rarely blow (on stock subaru's). if you've done a few subaru' timing belts, the timing pulleys loose grease, even with the seals. i have a write-up posted on here about how to repack them. i've seen seized pulleys, broken pulleys, etc. there are threads with failed pulleys on the forums here, but CV failures comparable to this guys situation are very rare. don't you have an EJ22 engine swapped into your loyale, so the axles and CV's are seeing more than %50 more power than the car came with stock? also, do you drive off road with a lifted vehicle? that is far from tyipcal. i mentioned a disclamier about that. i believe your car is lifted? if this is the same vehicle we're talking about, i don't know that this is really comparing apples to apples. from another thread: if this is the vehicle you're talking about then there might be some other explanations to why your CV exploded other than just the boot was broken.

the EJ22 is easier and lighter to install in a subaru than a V8. a V8 probably isn't compatible with AWD, offroad and gas mileage or as reliable as an EJ22. but mounting one would be such an issue anyway. Ej22 in an EA82 sounds like a great swap. i'd love to try it if i had the time.

that's highly unlikely to happen, and i don't think it's a good idea to use scare tactics in an open forum. if you know CV's and you know how well built subaru CV axlea are, it will be a rare case for a CV to fail without any prior warning to your ears (if you don't believe me, use the search function on this forum, i doubt you'll find one instance of a cv failure like this). i've been around subaru's and various online groups for going on a decade now and have never even heard of that happening. CV's will begin to make noise as they wear...and there again they will take many tens of thousands of miles of noise making to fail. i've driven front CV's that were clicking for 20,000+ miles (closer to 50,000 in reality, but i don't know the exact number), i just wait until i have to replace somethign else before doing it. aftermarket CV axle quality is so poor that i'd keep my broken boot, clicking joints or install a used axle before ever installing an aftermarket. statistically speaking the chances of a wheel bearing failing are more likely than your broken boot axle failing...or even making a noise for that matter. if you're that concerned about a rear axle completely failing, you better replace your wheel bearings and timing pulley bearings too. they are also gradually loosing grease over time as well and statistically just as likely to "go" and further damage something. do a search on timing belts, timing pulleys, water pumps, wheel bearings. you'll see multiple threads about those failing..many more of those than failing CV's (which you wont' find any of except in the off-road lifted rig forum and that doesn't count, those dudes are nuts!). one exception ill make is if you're driving on sand...if you do beach driving and flinging sand and salt water all up under your car, that's not good for many things, including a broken CV. i've done it. they get loud. but i still drove from Florida to Maryland clicknig madly that way (900 + miles) and continued driving it until i got around to replacing it. (that's the time i installed a new axle that blew to pieces within a weeK!). so even still....you get thousands of miles of warning and noise to let you know you need to think about changing it.

i'd leave the boot. the rears never fail. maybe they do if you run a lifted off-road rig. i have never replaced a rear split boot on my own soobs. i've put 100,000 miles on a split rear boot and they've never even clicked or made any noise. mine are split now and i never plan on replacing them. only 115,000 on that vehicle. i'll see 200,000 and will never replace those axles or boots, i can almost garuantee it. if they ever start making noise (which they won't), i'll think about it. i drive off road a fair amount too, have had my car buried to the point where mud pours in when i open the door, drive in snow all the time.....i'd leave it, it's not worth the trouble. splits boots are low percentage. they're good for passing an inspection....if you get there quick before it comes apart! i've never installed one, but my friends have and they didn't last very long at all. a couple months at best. your best bet if you really want to do this is just buy a used axle for $25 and install it. but the you have the bolt issue to deal with again....so i go back to point number one...it's really a pointless job.

i'm not an EJ22 expert, but think your 94 has hydraulic valve lash adjusters right? if so they could be bled down. if it's leaking somewhere you should be able to hear it. i'd listen through the oil dipstick tube (remove dipstick), remove the valve covers and open the throttle body. through the throttle (intake), exhaust, dipstick or valve covers you should be able to hear where the pressure is being lost too.

pardon the humor. without knowing more details it's hard to answer your question. you wrote "I WANT POWER". how much? how much money are looking to put into it? a non-turbo with lots of power is giong to require well into the thousands even if you do your own labor. more thousands if you pay someone else to do it. it's hard to offer advice without knowing these details. then there's the distinction to be made that some like the looks of power.....spoilers, exhaust, turbo scoops, monster lifted (never-offroaded) trucks, diesels, lots of goodies that don't get used or do very much, but give a certain feel for the vehicle....there's lots of choices for those that want that as well. so there's an aesthetic value to be considered as well (for some people!)

friend of mine, kate in college had her ford explorer returned with no oil, they forgot. the fortunate thing is that she only made it less than a mile before seizing up from the shop, so that was certainly obvious. they paid for everything to have it fixed. shop will probably deny it of course, but they do have insurance to cover such things and they do when they have to. legal fees won't make it worth your time to persue though. do not take this to the dealer....you'll be talking an enormous price tag. your best bet is to get a used engine (a late model) or a rebuild from CCR and have it installed. call them and ask for pricing.

Screw the dealers, they suck, i'm glad you've liked your experience. the same can be done with even your local auto parts places. the national chains maybe not, but the locals have the flexibility to price match. local shop wanted $220 for an XT6 head gasket set. they came down to $150 when i showed them the online pricing i could get.

i scanned in and posted pictures of the installation instructions that come with these ujoints. i either posted them on this forum or over at http://www.xt6.net it's been a while, but from memory i believe they lean more on the generic side and don't specify every little detail.

i'm with GD, usually a used shaft is fine. get two so you have a back up. they can be found for cheap. i have a couple lying around myself. i did install Rockford Ujoints in my XT6 driveshaft. they make a ujoint that's meant to replace the Subaru staked in ujoint. like GD said you have to cut the old one out and do some manipulating to install the new ones, but it can be done. i have an XT6 driveshaft with 3 new u joints in it and they are replaceable and greaseable now. i cut out the ujoints and took the shaft and new joints to the shop and they charged $100 to machine the shaft and install the joints. it's an expensive endeavor. i had 3 or was it 4 driveshaft failures and just got tired of replacing them, and even with a couple parts cars of my own i was starting to run out!! so i went for the new ones. but i put lots of miles on my vehicles and plan on keeping them for a loooong time.

some 2.5 goodies will fit the 2.2. a "semi-high" output EJ22 is like....20 hp more than stock. i don't know what you know about motors, but that's nothing. if you want 10... *maybe* 20....real stretch...horsepower more to the wheels you're going to need exhaust work, intake work (debatable whether that helps at all), crank pulley, new cams, advance the timing and run on premium gas. lighter wheels will help acceleration as well. that's alot of work and money for what will basically feel like...."i think it's faster". and...you'll be doing the same thing you want to avoid the turbo for. you'll be changing the driveability of the vehicle...exhaust and cam work gain you HP, but at the cost of moving the power band higher. which reduces your low end and doesn't make the car drive as nice in certain situations. now, if you want to tear the heads apart and match intake and exhaust pulses, bench flow testing, port the heads and increase your compression ratio, get different pistons....you're talking major work and thousands upon thousands of dollars of work for a few horsepower. are you looking to tear into the block and due some serious engine building or are you looking for bolt on, easy additions that make your car faster. in reality those things just don't really exist for a non-turbo vehicle. buy a rear spoiler, some chrome rims, paint the engine, get an electric super charger, get some racing stripes, mount your battery in the trunk and you're looking at +75 hp!!!!

if you weren't living in the red then a headgasket job should fix your issues. they are very stout motors with the new headgaskets, you shouldn't have any issues doubling your current mileage with new headgaskets. the new headgasket design won't blow a second time.

oh yeah, slick! electric super charger, adds 60hp!!! WOO HOO! you are going to be screaming......back to reality.... depends on your definition of "fast", but modifying a non-turbo car is kind of like refinishing an outhouse, there's just not much you can do to it. it may sound good, look good and function well, but you're really just limited. it takes lots of money and time to get much out of a non-turbo engine. depends if you really want fast or just look and sound fast. you're best bet is a turbo. either install an EJ22T or install a turbo on your no-turbo engine. i know others that have installed a turbo on the stock non-turbo engine. it's easier and if you manage the boost and temperatures well you can get great performance and reliability out of the engine. be careful spending large portions of disposable income on vehicles. if you can withstand that urge now, it will pay off later. i know, i'm an idiot for typing that on a car forum.

spend a couple minutes wiggling the flywheel, it'll come off. alternately tap each side with a rubber mallet (or hammer with a non-damaging tap). then grab it from each side with your hands and wiggle it back and forth. might not feel like it's doing much, but get fired up and put some stank on it, it'll come off. if you don't have an impact gun for the front pulley, put a socket wrench on it and swing a hammer really hard and really fast at the very end of the socket wrench handle. (goggles might be a good idea). that's the make-shift *impact* wrench method. it'll come off that way.

beat dead horse icon, how do i use that? anyway, sounds like the typical headgasket symptoms. a cracked block is certainly a possibility, but not nearly as probable as the headgaskets. the blocks don't just crack either, they probably only crack due to a failed headgasket and then continuing to drive the car while overheating. so if you drove it for quite some time with a bad headgasket (overheating), the risk of the block cracking goes up substantially. remember, block issues are very rare, most people replace the headgaskets without issue. i'm not talking about the block to scare you (like the dealer is!!!), but to let you know that i don't know how long you drove the car while running hot so i can't make a judgement call really. you have a few options. if money doesn't matter, pay the $1,500 to replace the headgaskets. doesn't have to be a subaru specialist, my buddy who's a mechanic has done a few of these EJ25 headgaskets and he rarely works on subaru's in his shop. they aren't anything special. kind of easy as far as head gaskets go really...except that there are two of them, that's kind of annoying! if money is an issue practice using the *search* button and read your options on this forum. you can save money by installing a 2.2 liter engine, that's the cheapest solution. replacing the head gaskets ($1,500) or replacing the engine would be much more. CCR is the way to go if you want a rebuilt engine. comes with full warranty, great company and it's brand new and should last a loooong time. it will have the new updated head gaskets on it too, so no worries. i'm calling BS on that dealer. i doubt they did enough testing to truely diagnose a cracked block and not the headgaskets. i garauntee the headgaskets are bad, so that they make a claim like that is totally erroneous and they are obviously short on their house payment.

what kind of driving you do greatly affects gas mileage. 30 for mixed highway and city driving is really good. there are some 90's legacies capable of 35 mpg. a FWD manual should yield good results.

if the wires were just cut, which they should be, then it should be a matter of just properly splicing them back together. i doubt they did much more than that. need an update on what the new plugs, wires and such did first....all this talk about ideas and compression testing is really a waste of your time until you look at simple stuff and replace those ignition components.