idosubaru

on man, don't suggest this. i did this and the car ran GREAT with that ECU. except it wouldn't idle. i wired the fuel pump directly alright with a switch in my center console. a couple days later i was near death when the interior carpet caught fire, filled the cabin with smoke and i'm trying to figure out which position is on/off on the switch....bad news that was. finally smarted up and drifted it back into the field away from my house and barn!!! ripped the wires out by hand and dumped water everywhere. no fire. i drew up a wiring system with a fuse and relay which im' going to put together tonight. trying to think of a good option for switching the relay....you say the ignition coil? should i put the fuse on the POSITIVE battery cable and the relay on the Negative ground wire of the fuel pump? i figured on doing this, then trying to figure out the idle.....then go from there. all the details are confusing the CRAP out of me....some ECU's only fuel no spark. some spark and no fuel...and the 4 cylinder car only runs on a 6 cylinder ECU....i don't even know what tail to chase anymore. i'm going to persure the fuel pump hard wire again, that will at least get the car driveable for now until i can get some ECU's tested. i'll search for some wiring info, i'm not a wiring expert and want to make sure i do this right.

double post.

furthermore - if you're looking to replace all the fluid best to drain it from the rack. remove the fittings at the bottom and turn the wheel lock to lock a few times, that will get most of it out. i believe there are drain plugs on the rack as well. i just pulled one and installed another a couple weeks ago and seem to recall a drain plug on them.

really no different than the EA82. it was an outside (#5, rear passengers side) that had issue, still have that head and block. major coolant leak due to head gasket, far from a typical leak, i was adding about a gallon a day. there was serious amount of material missing from the head where the gasket was leaking. localized heating i suppose. more parts increases risk, but ER27 still requires severe beating to render useless.

i ruined a piston pin and who knows what else in an ER27, found the piston clip in my oil pan - same pistons, rings, rods as an EA82. that was from adding coolant for 6 months that was ending up in the oil pan on a 220,000 mile motor. laziness kills. you get risky when you got extra motors lying around.

the XT6 ECU starts and runs the car fine in first and second gear so i think the connections, power and fuses are all fine. but who knows at this point??? i like the idea of posting pictures. i'll snap some pics of my current vacuum hose routing and of the AAV and purge control solenoid and see. these shouldn't interfere with creating spark, so i agree with what you're saying about them not affecting starting. thanks for keeping me straight...i'm starting to loose track of where i need to go from here.

have you already started? often oil ends up leaking and dripping down by the oil pan which makes it look like an oil pan leak when it's really something else like valve covers, rear main, cam seal, etc. on the older gen subaru's you have to lift the engine a few inches to get to those bolts. very annoying. unbolt motor mounts...trans mounts and push the engine up to gain clearance. haven't done a 2.2 but i've pulled them and think this might be similiar. someone will clarify.

very odd, never heard of that happening before. if you can find someone willing to pull the stub out you can get a used stub clip. probably won't do that on a good trans but you can try. you can tell them you'll bring back one when you get the new ones in if you're in a time squeeze!

i have a non-turbo XT that won't start. three different ECU's, one won't run the fuel pump, the other two no spark. no codes. my intake/vaccuum set up is marginal at best. can the intake/vaccumm lines cause a no start or no- spark condition? the purge control solenoid and AAV, anyone know if they can cause these problems if they aren't hooked up right? i get the same thing if they are plugged in or not. pretty sure the vacuum connections to them might be incorrect. if anyone can tell me where the input/output to these is routed that would be great.

i have a pulley from an EA82T if that helps, maybe all the P/S pulleys are the same? only problem is that it is cracked in one small spot. you could bend it back, file if needed and be good to go. the grooves the belt rides in are fine, the crack is along the outer edge. it's free! it's a two belt pulley off a 1988 EA82T (either an XT Turbo or RX, i can't recall which one it came off of, but they are the same so that doesn't matter). PM or email your address if you want it.

off the top of my head i don't know. except to say it sounds more like an electrical contact issues if it's temp related - which would lead me to believe the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) is to blame. just pull the wiring connector to it and look at the contacts. if you see any greenish or otherwise dirty contacts on the sensor or the connector then that is likely your issues. that would be a code 21 i think...but i'm not sure about that. don't replace the sensor, that's only a temporary fix and not worth the money when the problem will come right back anyway. check the codes and let us know. only take about 20 seconds to pop the trunk and read the flashing lights. we can help you track down the code if you count the flashes.

my parents tried to have one repaired that was on the car and it didn't work. it still spread on an existing windshield. that's only one experience so doesn't mean much but i'd get another windshield. did you try posting in the parts wanted forum, someone may have a parts car you can pull glass from. if it was an RX and you lived close i'd have one for you for free.

Got a "new" ECU in the mail yesterday and the car still won't start???? could i have ANOTHER bad ECU? that's the 3rd EA82 or EA82T ECU that won't work in the car. but an XT6 ECU works fine...except at over half throttle. XT turbo ECU - no spark RX ECU - no fuel newest ECU from an 88 XT i'm guessing has no spark. it won't start, fuel pump primes and no codes. what would cause an XT6 ECU to work fine but none of my 3 EA82's? bad luck, all the ECU's are bad? anyone have an MPFI EA82 they're willing to test my ECU's in if i ship one to you? plug and play no cost to you? i'd like to see if it's really the ECU or something else. i'm ordering another one today.....

i'll be in Akron in two weeks and have steering pump, rack and lines from a 1997 OBS with 103,000 miles in good shape. i can email photos. can sell you the parts and ship them. can probably install it for you as well while i'm there. PM or email if you're interested. i can also ask my wife's family, i believe they have a good mechanic they've dealt with for many years. i don't think he's cheap or anything, but i believe they've had good luck with him. Canton/Massillon area.

leave the portion of the driveline connected to the transmission in place to keep the rear extension housing sealed. or get a FWD transmission. if it's for gas mileage reasons, you won't notice any difference, i've done it in both manual trans and auto trans...not for gas mileage purposes but i watch my mileage consistently and no difference running an AWD trans in FWD. otherwise, just leave the driveshaft in place and you're golden.

has any recent work been done? could be a connector pulled apart partially or something like that. no changes you can feel in shifting or otherwise?

Yetiman - on the harsh shifting. i forget what year you have but on the older 4EAT auto's there's a shift resistor bolted to the passengers side strut tower in the engine bay. i actually disconnect mine to make the shifts firmer. they are quite violent, but i do it because the older XT6's have a slow/delayed 3rd to 4th shift and this helps that out alot. but it increases the snap in the 1st and 2nd shifts. i would bet this shift resistor is unplugged....or the wiring/pins are out of line!! it may be on the passengers strut tower, if i remember i'll check my wife's 97 impreza. i know the SVX is in a different place, but i think the early EJ series motors are on the strut tower. on the snow driving - try installing the Duty Solenoid C switch. only requires splicing into one wire and make the automatic transmissions HOT HOT HOT in the snow. makes driving in actual snow phenomenal. it essentially "locks" the front and rear wheels via the transfer clutches. info on this board about if you want to search. otherwise you have to rely on the TCU which really limits the AWD performance. don't really need this unless you're off road or in serious snow/mud/slippery stuff.

that is some serious damage. park sisters car by dog. leave window down. most hate bugs and kill them. most hate mice and kill them, a small contingent of mice hugging trappers out there. farmers hate birds that doo doo 4 inches of dung on their equipment so they shoot them. horse owners shoot groundhogs that make holes and break horse legs. some shoot cats, and love dogs. some people don't view dogs much more than other animals. some people, sadly more and more in the past 10 years, treat their dogs better than their kids. we all draw our lines in different places, this dog-shooting discussion has come up a few times. it is interesting. glad it didn't turn into a name calling heated debate!

if cheap is important, the best option is a couple used units (order from the south or other non-rust states). they tend to last quite awhile if they don't rust out. throw a spare in the trunk, they're super easy to swap out (not counting the 3 mounting bolts that are likely rusted). have zip-ties ready too. another board member installed an MSD fuel pump, $100 new here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D2225 here are discussions about installing the MSD pump on an ER27, which is the same pump as the EA82: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1742 http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4104&highlight=fuel+pump i bought this same pump and couldn't get it to work right. if i hard wired it, it worked fine, but for some reason it wouldn't come on if i plugged it in? maybe i had the wiring backwards..doubtful since i hard wired it fine, but who knows. it's been sitting since last summer and i'm about to try to get it to work again in my XT EA82 instead of my XT6. i had good customer service from Summit, they said they'd replace the pump eventhough i wasn't sure if i did something wrong or not. i kept it since i was not confident the pump was to blame.

i'd have a machine shop do the heads, most likely they will mill them no problem. be sure to tell them what you did so they can be mindful of that while checking them. did you dremel tool the block too or just the heads? this is a terrible suggestion but worse case scenario you could get very fine body work sandpaper and gently go over any knicks or cuts in the metal. focus only on ones that interfere with suspect areas of the block/heads and gasket. this isn't recommended at all for head gasket mating surfaces but if the surface is uneven in anyway, you'd at least want it smooth, you'd introduce a slight warp to the block or head, but better than a compromised spot in the form of a gouge or knick. depends where the marks are too....if you removed metal right at a water jacket or something that would suck. again...horrible idea and i can't see the heads, but if they are really bad then i'd opt for a smooth head over one that's gouged. that picture of the block looks mighty clean. the older generation head gaskets are usually clumped on there and leave permanent impressions in the block. the blocks/heads i've pulled on higher mileage motors are much more caked on and very hard to clean up. worst part of the head gasket job to me is the clean up. no cleaner, scotch pad, chemical solution has helped more than a tiny bit so far. i hope the newer ones are all as easy as those pictures as i haven't had to do one yet! it's worth the machine shop time on the heads just to let them clean it up then i only worry about the block.

awesome job yetiman (a.k.a. mr. resilient) , i don't see a reference to this "bad wire" earlier in the thread. where/what was it? glad you found it! so...you selling or keeping this "project"?

here are some pictures of the area where the WGDS is and what it looks like. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55964 not sure on pin number for it. you can use a continuity tester to check for pins if you're not sure. i wonder if the ECU is capable of running without those disconnected and not show a trouble code? i know the car will run fine without the O2 sensor disconnected and i'm pretty sure it won't show a CEL as i've driven that way many times. it will throw a CEL if it has compromised input from those sensors, but doesn't care if they are connected or not. on an MPFI i don't believe there is anything in place of the boost switch. but i'd like clarification because i just swapped from turbo to non-turbo. if you need that bracket i have one i don't need from my conversion.

the rear control arm is the assembly that the hub/bearings are connected too. it would be very difficult to confuse with anything else as it's the thing the rotors/wheels attach too. it is shaped quite funny...sort of an "L" shape. the bolts can be stubborn as all get out to remove, they are big and typically rusted in place....of cousre that's my east-coast experience talking. but not that bad, i removed an XT6 rear like that not too long ago. if you're willing to ship the dash trim and/or steering column covers let me know. they are very very delicate and normally break though, so tread lightly around them. actually i doubt you can get them off without breaking, kind of a hit or miss type procedure.

how many miles and what engine? i think this would be an EA82. if the "knock" is just tapping, then you may only need to reseal the oil pump (which could be causing your massive oil leak as well). $20 for the parts to do that. for compression - probably head gaskets. the bottom ends typically don't need rebuilds. new headgaskets and oil pump seals might take care of business for you.

should all swap over. you will have to take the power steering and the lines from the pump down to the rack from the 2.5 to put onto the 2.2. aside from that you can use either the 2.2 or 2.5 stuff.