
idosubaru
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Everything posted by idosubaru
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where your arrow points and says "here i use my hand to shake"...that's the inner tie rod. it connects to the rack underneath the boot. here is a picture of a set on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-XT-Coupe-Turbo-85-87-Front-OEM-Inner-Tie-Rod-Set_W0QQitemZ8043773358QQcategoryZ33593QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem you'll notice the threaded ends that extend beyond the boot. the other end is the part "inside" the boot where you seem to have some play.
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Fule pump longevity (mtbf)....
idosubaru replied to bgd73's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
it's not that uncommon to hear the fuel pump. either that, or all mine are louder than normal! i've never had to replace a fuel pump except when i first bought a subaru...seems letting them sit rusts the fuel pump to the point of leakage. otherwise i had 198,000 and 196,000 on 2 XT6's with the original pump (same pump as EA82 subaru's). my most recent daily driver is around 220,000 with i believe the original fuel pump. i did remove it once to test it or swap it into a non-running vehicle temporarily, but pretty sure i reinstalled the same one. never had one fail on a daily driver over the past 15 years of owning subaru's. -
What sorts of wheels look good on an xt6?
idosubaru replied to xfinrodx's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
outback/legacy alloys look great and are the 15" variety. impreza WRX wheels look excellent and come in 16". got no pictures of mine but that what i had before i started reconstruction.... for XT6 pic's and info go to http://www.xt6.net -
edit..
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i have nothing to add to the rebuild stuff, but on pulling a seal, i like the method of drilling a small hole and using an appropriately sized self tapping screw to thread down in the seal. then pull it out with the screw head. racks are fairly easy to replace and don't fail too often, might be easier to replace used.
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Mirror in the glove box...Rare???
idosubaru replied to LiftedHatchSubie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i was picturing this thing lying flat and bending over to use it! -
Tranny is acting strange
idosubaru replied to Joey Joe's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the vent for the transmission is usually at the top, but i'm not famliar with yours. that could be a drain tube, most subaru's have one down in the area. it's not vacuum related or anything. -
brake rotors
idosubaru replied to pamike's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
no. be sure to include your year/model to help with answering ?'s. -
too little exhaust in place is a bad thing - it can damage your exhaust valves. but no worries there, large exhaust won't cause that. a lack of one or very radical changes would cause that. if the exhaust is too large i would suspect a loss of low end power. on the various exhausts i've tried on the XT6, anything too open, no cat and large pipe is sluggish at low RPM's and wants to downshift all the time going up hills. not my cup of tea. i would expect similar results on the EJ22. 2.5" seems like the upper limit for normal use. my experience is minimal, but i'd probably stick with 2" or 2.25" unless you find yourself driving in the high RPM range often. if you're staying under 4,000 rpm's most of the time going over 2.25" might not offer you much. looking forward to some results on this as well, post back what you try and what you get.
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flex pipes suck. i've seen some that are stainless steel and might be better but the ones at the local stores i've seen and used rust out in less than a year. maybe if you verify that it's stainless or something, paint it or coat it to prevent it from rusting away. otherwise how long they last is not worth the time or money spent fixing it. i'd rather ride around with an open exhaust until i can fix it right. (like i'm doing with subeman's old XT Turbo right now). advanced carries bolt on exhaust parts. price them out, XT mid-pipes with the converter and flanges all on them are only $90. what i do is take the old pipe to a shop, have them bend the tube like stock then weld on flanges as needed. post in the parts wanted forum, might be able to find one for sale. i have a 1997 OBS that i'm not going to need the mid and rear exhaust parts for. 2.2 motor, exhaust should bolt up to yours. PM me quick though if you want it soon, i won't have internet access all weekend.
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new engine in XT, won't start *SOLVED* Bad ECU
idosubaru replied to idosubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
of course. but, they used one platform to create the other so similarities could be enormous and that was proved when the XT6 (6 cylinder) ECU worked on my XT (4 cyilnder) engine. the other two were fried ECU's. the XT6 ECU ran great, perfectly smooth. i agree, i would think it would cause issue. i can't believe i didn't get any IAC valve (a component only on the XT6 ER27 engine) or other issues....but i didn't. car ran great. idled high...which confuses me since the throttle plate is closed and the AAV valve wasn't connected. ran great, that's all i know. you're crazy 1989 XT non-turbo i agree, probably best to have the right ECU and one is on the way. -
i've run all sorts of exhausts on the older subaru's with no CEL or O2 sensor issues. i wouldn't worry about that. the XT6, 6 cyilnder, runs nice with 2.25" exhaust. xt6.net has dyno plots and stuff about this thanks to myxphlyx (also a member here). on the EJ22 i don't know, it's different. the XT6 gets 1-3mpg better on all highway driving and i believe a 4-7 hp and torque increase going to 2.25" according to his dyno plots. EJ22 is a different beast, but i'd expect some small gains if it's not too large. i've had straight pipe on my XT6 and it definitely looses power and mileage. maybe it has more power REALLY high...like 5,000 rpms, i don't know, but it's not where i normally drive so it did me no good.
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striking out searching. are the EA82 injectors and EA82T injectors different? the ones i have from an RX and XT Turbo look identical to the non-turbo JDM injectors. i just installed the JDM EA82 into my XT - so it's non-turbo. i want to make sure i'm not running turbo injectors. i'm using the N/A JDM intake, so i would think they are non-turbo but who knows, they look the same.
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Nissan 280ZX Turbo Injector Swap *DONE PROOF*
idosubaru replied to Steveman09's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
Myxalplyx has done some dyno and testing with fuel pressure regulators, i think he had one on the RX actually. you might want to search for his results. there's also some flow testing done by gravityman on XT, XT Turbo, XT6 and nissan injectors here: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4533&highlight=fpr -
correction gas guzzling EJ22. nice wagon for sure. what happens if you remove the front sway bar? doesn't sound like a good idea.
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what is up maryland guy. i can't believe all these maryland peeps i'm seeing lately. subaru steering racks have a low failure rate, so i'd say it's personal preference. i've never replaced my fluid, i've had three stock racks at 198,000, 196,000 and 220,000 miles. still have those racks actually, the body couldn't make it past all the rust. changing fluids is never a bad idea, i think i'd be more concerned with brake fluid and coolant changing though. coolant systems and brake components have a higher failure rate and more likely to have contamination.
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change the transmission and rear differential oil and adjust the clutch while you're at it. traditional torque bind won't show itself when driving straight. you may have differential issues (front or rear) but that's not torque bind. i'd check and change all the trans and diff fluids and see if there is anything in the old oil. sucks the dude drove it with low tires but hopefully it's okay. might want to double check that all the tires match in size. is the engine tapping or slapping? might want to look up tapping, ticking, slapping by doing a search here and see if any of those issues sound like yours. tapping would make sense with the low oil if you have oil pressure loss at the oil pump. not an immediate concern assuming it's not loosing tons of oil and you can put up with adding it/having a few spots on the ground.
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you can try a spark plug thread chaser, but like mentioned earlier there isn't likely enough metal left to work with. but it's free and something you can do yourself so it may be worth a shot. if that doesn't work you can install an insert. that requires nothing but the inserts and some tools, no engine disassembling beyond removing the spark plug. there are kits to do this, if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself...well, if you've never done it then it might be best to let a shop do it. there is chance of getting debris in the cyilnder, so this isn't the best place to start if you're not familiar with the process. a shop will charge $75 - $100 to do this. ask about the kits in an autoparts store and read the directions on the back to see if you want to try it yourself, or talk to the guys at the parts store, they may be able to show you the tool and how to do it. good luck and have fun. price the O2 sensors at an auto parts store and get the Universal type, not the direct fit type. the universal type requires removing the old O2 sensor and cutting off the electrical connector on it (you're throwing it away anyway!). then just connect the wiring harness to the new universal O2 sensor which will just have one loose wire on it. these can be had for older subaru's (like EA82 and ER27's) for 19.99. the direct fit O2 sensors are exactly the same as the one i just mentioned, but come with the wiring connector already attached. but for $40 savings you get the same thing and it only requires attaching one wire. very simple. if you can remove the spark plug, you can splice on the connector! as a side note - the car will run fine without the O2 sensor in case you're worried about jacking it up. but it's so easy i can't imagine any glitches. good luck and have fun.
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are the RX and XT Turbo any different? same i'm guessing, rear discs and sway bar?
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make sure they are OEM wires. anything else is problematic on the EJ series motors. on firing order - they make it sound worse than it is. just make sure you plug the wires in the right spots. that's all they saying. you can install in any order any way you want, just make sure they right plug connects to the right output of the coil pack. in other words - put the new ones where the old ones were! real simple, hard to explain in words. any gain in power/mileage would be attributed to getting the car back to stock condition and getting rid of your mis-fire. the wires won't add anything significant themselves beyond the tune-up factor which is a good one.
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that's part of the equation, but there is far more involved than that. i've done a lot of number crunching on these mileage figures over the years of owning various XT6's. proof is right here, all highway miles, road trip numbers, i've owned about a dozen of these i'm fairly familiar with them: Subaru XT6 automatic AWD - 28.5 mpg roughly 3,000 rpms at 75 Subaru XT6 manual AWD - 27 mpg roughly 3,500-3,700 rpms at 75 unless you want to take the side that automatics are more efficient than manuals (which noone would do), the optimum running range for highway gas mileage for the kind of driving i do is in the 3,000 RPM range. my automatics have given me better gas mileage and that's cruising 75 - 80 mph....i may get better if i drove 65 but i'm not about to do that on a long road trip. that being said - an old FWD manual EA82 non-turbo subaru can get 40 mpg. but i don't recall the RPM's those transmissions run, it's been a long time since i've owned the only FWD subaru i had. but i got 40 mpg on highway trips. i'm not a fan of the higher gearing of manual trans either, but it shouldn't affect the motor at all, but it does seem better gas mileage could be had with different gearing on the manual trans.