idosubaru

first i'd like to take this time to quote mr. wjm for his insightful comment awhile back that i find funny and motivating: the only two 4 cylinder ECU's i had would not run the car, i was assuming they were bad and ordered a new ECU from colorado. rather than wait for it to get here i figured how much different can the XT6 and XT computers be? i opened them up and noticed the only difference i could see was were there are 2 resistors in one place, there are 3 in the XT6. the 4 cylinder has a spot and all marked out for the 3rd resistor, it's just not there. there are probably other differences, but that was all i could see with a quick 3 minute investigation. i plugged it in and the car fired right up and idled!!! ha!!! i found that very funny last night. i unplugged the AAV and some other solenoid under the intake. never tried it with those plugged in but i bet it'd run fine. it idled high, around 2,000 but otherwise idled and drove smooth and fine.

subarian, thanks for all the help. i needed the hill holder mechanism attached to provide the spring return for the clutch. worked perfect and i got to drive it around some last night. needs a little adjusting to come back a little smoother, but worked great. SO STOKED THE MOTOR DOES'NT HAVE TO COME BACK OUT!! looks like the spring on the clutch pedal assembly provides assited for "pushing down" the clutch pedal and the hill holder cable provides the return spring action. there is a small hole on the top of the clutch fork obviously for a return spring as well on non-hilder holder equipped soobs. although one of my XT6's has both - hill holder and a spring, but it's definitely not a stock spring set up. thanks!

i had a warped new rotor, right out of the box last year. same thing you're describing. what i did was jack the front of the car up. i turned both wheels by hand. i could barely feel the passengers side catch at one point during the revolution of the wheel. it was very light. i was surprised how hard it was to tell considering how terrible it pulsated when braking. i guess at speed with the calipers clamped makes all the difference. anyway, i took about 5 times going back and forth between passenger and drivers side to convince myself that the little catch i was feeling while turning the wheel by hand was the bad rotor. took it back and they gave me a new one. unfortunately i got these rotors at a store i don't normally go to and it was in the city. took some convincing as the guy swore i had driven on these or didn't install them properly. he gave me a new one though.

none of the soob motors i've worked on had a washer under the crank bolt. it's always been just the crank pulley and a bolt. i don't think it matters either way, with or without would be fine. either way you need to crank the snot out of the bolt with a long breaker bar and the engine locked in place - in gear, flywheel, flexplate, etc.

big question is whether the accident is your fault or not. if it is then well that's trickier, doable but you gotta be on them alot to get anywhere. if the accident wasn't you fault (which it sounds like it isnt), you can get whatever you want out of them. depends how good and aggressive you want to be. they want most people to scower under the thought of big companies, paper work, and "the system". they want you to believe whatever they tell you, what it's worth etc. they will string you along. demand they fix it and they. my boss had this happen. old VW that looked like an average 20 year old car. he had completely rebuilt the engine and other items himself. they said "totalled"....$800 or something. he battled with them and got his car fixed...eventhough it was thousands of dollars. but he was a hard a$$ on them and threatened lawsuit...in a creative way i'm sure. good luck, if it wasn't your fault don't settle for getting screwed.

if you're speaking of the main crank shaft pulley then be sure to tighten the bolt. iron bolt, iron crankshaft, 22mm bolt - torque the crap out of it. i use a 1/2" socket with a 3 foot breaker bar and put some serious stank into it. anything less and you risk it coming off. it could be coming apart and appearing to wobble if the inner and outer parts are seperating from the rubber ring between them. if you look really close there's a rubber ring around the middle of the pulley, this is rubber and over time seperates causing the inner part to spin and the outer to not spin as fast or seize or fall off...etc. causing overheating and charging problems. if you need a new pulley - score a used one somewhere. temporarily the two "halves" can be kept together with sheet metal screws screwed in between where the rubber is. or tack weld it. i hope i'm reading this correctly, if not help me out a little.

okay it is a 2.2 liter, i looked it up. i'd read the steps in the links posted above, they should help you figure out the codes yourself. most likely you don't need a scan tool. i just read through those links, that is what you're looking for. no scan tool needed.

what engine do you have an EJ? there is information on how to read those codes yourself posted above i believe. if not, you can find it on the board somewhere. often you don't need a scan tool to read the codes.

you at least need a rear diff vent tube going to the roof if you're going to stay in that kind of slop much! nice pic.

good point - advanced auto parts will take your anitfreeze for free. just dump it in with your oil. i just did last night, dumped a few gallons of it in the oil tank. excellent deal. the local government recycling center only takes oils.

HA HAAA derrick rules. another vote for that. with the diff on the ground and pins out the axles "should" come off. did you try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? that stuff is awesome. sounds like yo'ure really stuck though.

thanks much, i'll check tonight and post back tomorrow.

well that makes me feel a little better, but i can't recall it being tight or not once the plate was bolted on. memory fails me on that one. would a motor swap cause the cable length to vary? i went from turbo to non-turbo. doesn't seem like it since the block is the same and i didn't touch the trans.

i saw "deves" listed on-line elsewhere as the OEM supplier of Subaru rings. i have no reason to believe or disbelieve that information though.

that's what i got too reading through info - i don't have the hill holder installled, so maybe (hopeful but doubtful) that's the issue. is the clutch disk install really that simple....use the tool to hold it centered, but otherwise it's just "laying in there" so to speak as you bolt the pressure plate on? uh-oh...i wonder if i jacked this up - i used an EA82T flywheel and XT6 clutch and pressure plate. is that a problem?

i cleaned all the old gunked up dirty grease off the clutch fork and greased up the pivot really well. followed the FSM as best as i could except i didn't use the special "molybdemunmbidamumm grease" it suggested, i just used regular grease at the suggestion of others. i'll check the pedal/cable. (mucho hopeful this is the case....) thanks!

subarian..... thanks for the input. fork is on the pivot for sure. now i'm wondering if i installed the clutch disc properly. it seemed to just "sit in place", seemed very easy to do. i knew i should have verified ahead of time. i used the clutch tool to hold the disc centered in place while i bolted the flywheel up. is this tricky or could i have messed it up? it seemed way to easy, like the clutch disk was just sitting in there and the tool did little more than hold it centered? i think i'm about to hate 5 speeds more than i already did. automatics rule. ha ha, thanks for the feedback. i'm hoping the cable is mal-adjusted.

shouldn't be doing that. sounds like torque bind - search on that and you'll get alot of info from the board here. check fluid, change fluid are first things. also - do all the tires match? a mismatched tire (one worn down more than the rest for example) can cause this as well. but usually it'll come and go and not be constant from what i've seen. screws with the input to the computer i think.

i noticed the eye for a spring...i'll look into getting a spring for that. when i let off the pedal it just stays on the floor, it doesn't come back up. i can't feel anything engaging, nothing about it feels right. press down and it falls to the floor and doesn't come back up. i'll check adjustment too. being my first clutch install let me verify this: first the flywheel bolts to the motor? then the clutch basically sits inside the flywheel...use the alignment tool and it sits inside there right? i hope i didn't screw that up. then the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel. what holds the clutch disk in place? i bet i'm pulling the engine again....

it will not bolt up to any EA or ER series motor without an adapter plate and also some wiring issues. you'd need wiring loom or make one yourself, ECu and all the appropriate sensors. it's all different and room available for the swap into an EA engine bay might be tricky as well. probably have to pull the engine to replace a valve cover.

if the radiator is in question at all i'd get a new one. new two row radiators can be had for 85-120 depending on source. i've taken side tanks off and it's an annoying job to me and not worth it, but most of my radiators are in bad shape. i've mailed side tanks to people in far off countries that can't get parts (for the XT6), that's the only reason i've taken them off. there are a number of people on the boards that have mentioned rodding out the radiators, might want to search some more if you're interested in that method i've seen it mentioned a number of times by board members. a radiator shop can also do this for you. if you do want to flush it out i'd buy a number of gallons of distilled water. drain the entire cooling system and refill with distilled water. repeat this a number of times and finish by adding half and half of coolant/distilled water or whatever mixture you like. then refill your batteries with the left overs, if they are the miantenance type, they should take distilled water only as well. or buy the chemical kits and follow the directions.

that is only for OBD generation vehicles. not sure what years this is applicable to, but his 1990 legacy won't have OBD plugs so they can't help him out. normally this is an excellent method for diagnosing the Check Engine light. i'm not familar with 90's legacies but if it has the LED read out of the codes, follow those directions posted and you'll be golden. easy to do and you can do it yourself if you can count blinking lights.

i helped him with the windshield replacement and hub bearings. then in my mastery of all things vehicular i told him painting it himself was a bad idea. he kept asking me about painting and i couldn't believe he was even considering using cans. glad he proved me wrong, i learned alot that day about what i "know". http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5307&highlight=xt+turbo here's a picture of my 87.5 XT Turbo engine bay. i'm at work and can't zoom in or i'd try to narrow down the two connectors on top the drivers side strut tower. sounds like this is not even close to the 86 set up so it doesn't matter based on what you found. but these connectors must be for something?

you're right. to be more accurate it's above the crank shaft more than above the pulley. it's "behind" the pulley. it's attached by one 10mm bolt and the electrical harness connector i believe. very easy. not sure if the crank pulley or power steering pump are in the way. at most - you'd have to remove the belt and crank pulley to replace it. make sure the connector and sensor are all clean before installing the new one. corrossion/dirt will render a new or used sensor useless in no time. sometimes cleaning up the old connector/sensor will fix it. for this one though, replacement is probably a better option.

you shouldn't have a problem getting stuff to work, just didn't know if you were looking for bolt and drop in parts. power seat might have a comuter with it, give it power and it may work as well if you get the entire track and don't mind messing with wiring.