ShawnW

Yes. But what a hand cleaner!

Thats normal to excellent numbers.

Signs of neglect and cheap oil.

Legacy axle can handle alot more angle than the ea stuff can.

Top of any USMB page click photos.

I moved just to get out of the salt belt and now I am amazed at what I part out instead of keeping on the road. But these $100-250 cars that are worth more in parts than running are kindof fun but too expensive to smog, plate, put a windshield in, etc for what they are. If you'd consider shipping a car or flying into Denver to drive one back let me know. I can definately keep an eye out for something.

Im pretty sure a Gen2 one fits. Try radiators.com

I probably should own one of those since I have a Vanagon too. Bratsrus1 suggested one a while back too. Thanks!

Good call that worked.

86 GL Hatchback is the car. I push the dash switch for rear defrost and the orange light on the button and the dash come on for a split second and then it is off. Where do I start?

I have seen early legacy 4.11 diffs with stubs.

Put the car on ramps, degrease it and rinse off. Probably a lather rinse repeat if its as caked on as I have seen it.

Once its that deep there is no fixing it. It will spread like wildfire. If its a good runner (most rusty cars are for some odd reason) then I would drive it thru the winters and park your clean ones during the winter until this one crumbles past the point of passing inspection or something takes a turn for the worse on a big bump or pothole. Of course this advice is at your own risk...I aint responsible when the gas tank falls off the body and causes an accident.

Power steering bracket sounds right. It should have a hole for a chain loop. Sometimes you have to pull the axle to get a socket on it but I use a 14MM wobble socket, extension and a lot of cursing sometimes.

Actually I was thinking of doing that with the lift just lift the left side of the car gently so the rad cap is the highest point. Ive got a spill free funnel at the shop so it wont just pour out all over the place.

I tried that but ill try it again.

Youre starter is on the drivers side top not in the center. The 5spd dual range fits real nicely. Its just shorter so you need a different driveshaft or the 4 spd dual range fits like a glove without much of anything but some trim pieces inside the car and an extra bracket underneith.

Run. You can do better for that amt of $.

What he said!!!

Ill do that but inside on the lift.

I cant seem to get the air out of my cooling system. Im using the ea81 radiator. Any ideas?

They rust into the knuckle so what i have done is to twist them with a big channellock plier or beat them with a sledge. Make sure you got that little bolt out of the knuckle though...i forgot that one once. If all else fails disconnect the tie rod end, unroute the brake line (you had to do that anyway), pull the axle (pull balljoint bolt) and pull the whole knuckle with the strut attached and attack the beast off the car.

Tire pressure was checked?

Pretty much you could use a 92-96 4eat of the same gear ratio and it would just plug in and work. A 97 one wouldnt as its a 1 year only trans.

The key has to be in the ignition on position but not running. The colors of the plugs you connect will be the same color as each other and should both be green. IF your car is an SPFI then it should be behind the strut tower on the drivers side. The ECM is below the steering column but above the plastic trim that is above your legs. Probably has a LED on the side of it that you can read the codes from.