ShawnW

Is your charge light coming on with the key to ign on? If not it won't charge. To fix it if its not lighting up: Find the T-Plug that was for your ea82 alternator. On those alternators one prong is S and one is L. The L terminal needs to plug into the wire on your harness I tagged alternator light. Or you can install an XT6 alternator and just use all but one groove on the xt6 alt pulley and all the plugs are a direct plug in. On my ea81 my volt gauge reads 12ish but its really putting out 14.8 so i still need to fix the dash gauge but the chg light works. (Im running legacy alt).

That'd be scrap metal out here. Id be concerned with safety in towing something that rusty but using it for a bike rack would be ok. Find somebody that will sandblast it and have them primer it as well then paint it yourself. If you dont have them primer it...it rusts on the way home.

Pull the complete engine, wiring, etc and put it on Ebay. Going for a lot of $ right now for vanagon conversions.

Are you 100% sure you didnt put the crush ring on upside down?

Dry

They are a set so to help insure compatibility keep the ring and pinion together.

Its a private message, an in house email system on USMB.

Completely different. The EJ engines use a grooved o ring like thing and the EA use a paper/cork gasket.

Pull the wire off the temp sender and ground it. It should peg the gauge. If it doesnt you have a bad gauge. If it does your sender is bad, or you have a cooling system problem like a stuck thermostat. This is actually a problem as you would be getting to operating temp where all your emissions components are meant to.

Whoever installed the tires would probably dismount them, grind the rust with a special tool and then cement and reinstall the tires to the rims for free or a nominal fee.

I could see doing it in the car for a couple at most but for all 16 no way.

Gotta pull the engine to do em. Sorry. Unless they were NOK (genuine subaru) valve stem seals they are probably junk.

Im pretty sure the fuel inlet sizes match and the pump should work fine.

Ordered one off the snapon truck today. $189. I will post results.

It may be more cost effective to drive with a GPS unit for your speedometer and you get a GPS as a bonus to the "repair". Otherwise a used/rebuilt transmission is in order.

1.6 one doesnt fit the 1.8. Use the filter as a handle to pull on it with. Ive broken 4 of these in the car and alot more off the car tearing down engines. Don't sweat it. A new one shouldnt be more than 100 and its good piece of mind.

What I did was take the water pipe and modify it. I took the ej22 2 prong connector one out of its hole, and the gauge one out of its and then I drilled and tapped the smaller (gauge) hole out to accept the 2 prong computer signal one and drilled and tapped the bigger one out to accept the ea gauge sender and ran the original wires for the gauge. On my 84 turbo 2.2 conversionI kept the sender as they relocated it on the turbo recall program to be in the heater hose inline.

I drive a 97 outback that from the factory came with a 2.5 and I replaced with a ej22. The previous owner had 3 sets of head gaskets done. 2 by the dealer and one by an independent before he decided to just get rid of the car. I put a rebuilt 2.2 in it with delta cams and I have driven other peoples cars that have rebuilt ej25 DOHC and SOHC's in them and I can honestly say the only time you notice the power difference is right off the line getting the car moving. After that its a wash in fact I think the 2.2 is quieter in High Rev's than the 2.5 is. If the timing belt breaks, who cares. With the 2.5 you can't "who cares" anything. If I ever blow a radiator hose (unlikely cuz I spoil the car) I don't have the risk of blowing the ever so wimpy head gaskets. No valves to adjust. Ive got the hyd roller rockers on 95 2.2 heads. I can replace spark plugs without cursing and I can use the cheapie NGK's instead of having to buy Platinum plugs because I hate changing out the plugs on the DOHC 2.5's. (and ej20's for that matter) If you have to have 15 horsepower at least spring for the SOHC engine or just get an 2.0 turbo and be done with whining about power.

Holes to fill indeed. Id just take the crossbars off the rest of the rack shouldnt cause much wind resistance or anything.

I can fit a stock ea81 fan in my car but the radiator hose touches the fan area and I don't like that. I think the 11" advance auto fan sounds good to me. For an RX 2.2 conversion I just was working on we used the fan Beefaru used initially and it fit ok. EXTREMELY tight fit but it made it. Checker had a radiator fan mounting setup that had these zip tie like things that worked fairly well so long as you got them thru the radiator fins and condensor straight.

Id put a rebuilt alternator and a battery in it. You said the battery is leaking and usually these are just a 1-2 punch you won't be long on the other when one goes bad and getting both new gets you the most life out of both.

Wheel bearings make pretty weird noises.

He's got a Jetta and that blue beater car in the corner of one of the pics HAS to leak a ton that was a freebie car.

Did you try searching this one? I hate to open this can of worms again (synthetic oil debates). Theres also TONS of google searches that would probably compare some. IMO Penn, quaker, etc aren't meant for a Subaru. Mobil1 and Valvoline are the best IMO. Amsoil and other not so major oil company oils seem to really have some quality and backing around here too.

Theres a 2nd fuse box to the left of your left foot when driving. Im not sure if the DRL fuse is in there though.