ShawnW

Please don't cross link a question just repost the question on USMB. People here usually dont want to have to register or login to Nasioc just to reply to you. And no, nothing would just bolt in you'd be in for a huge custom job and it wouldn't be worth it. These older cars are cool for what they are just like a WRX is. If you want an old car take its styling and the same for the new. If you want a custom car build one.

How do I excite the alternator so it will charge the battery? Both of my conversion projects don't show more than 11 volts on the volt gauge with the legacy alternator.

Ive been wondering that as well. A poorly or unbalanced driveshaft maybe caused the original problem is all I can think of other than just that maybe...far fetched....the body wasnt lined up to the powertrain properly when they converted the car from 2wd to 4?

ARE YOU SURE you want to do this? You can do severe engine damage as this is an interference engine and you can void your warranty. Timing belt instructions: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! Before you remove the belt set the crank. It needs to point such that the keyway on the crank is pointing down and that the mark on the crank sprocket is lined up with the little index mark on the oil pump at 12:00. With the crank key pointed down the cam gears should be pointing so the ARROWS are at 2:00 or so and there is another mark on these gears that points to 12:00. If all three are lined up properly check the tensioner. If its got a blue bearing its a 1 piece and needs to be recompressed on the engine to prevent damage to the tensioner. Compress it with a large prybar and then slide a pin into the holes when they are lined up. Likely a 2 person job and be careful of your fingers. If the bearing isnt blue you have the 2 piece tensioner. Pull it with the 2 12MM bolts that hold it on and place in a bench vise. Gently and slowly (spend 3-5 minutes doing this to prevent damage to tensioner) compress till the holes line up and then bolt the tensioner back onto the engine but not all the way, leave it so its threaded to the block but not tight. Next pull the belt. The cam (s) may jump so again watch fingers. Do so by pulling only the cogged idler which is mounted to the water pump with a 14MM bolt. Now, switch the gears from the old engine onto the new one. Set everything to 12:00 again if you havent already. Line all the marks on the belt up with the marks on the cam and crank sprockets. Dotted goes on the crank, solid on the cams and the SUBARU branding and part number should be readable from the front and not upside down. With all the gears aligned with the marks take a 17 wrench and turn the cam on the drivers side of the engine clockwise to slack the belt and put the cogged idler back in. Do so by hand and get the bolt nice and tight. Recheck marks (do so 10 times!!!) You can destroy the motor being off. Depending on the tensioner you have...you need to tension the belt (like ea82). If its the two piece you need to take a screwdriver on the tensioner and push it from your right to the left so its not touching the edge of the bracket anymore and then tighten the 12MM bolts. If its a 1 piece continue below. Tension the belt by pulling the pin (check marks before you do). With it pulled you turn the drivers cam counterclockwise which should make the slack go away and the tensioner make it up. Recheck marks again and then momentarily try to start the engine and shut it right back off just to make sure you have everything right before you put all the outer plastic and engine accessory belts back on. If something is wrong you might as well know now. Call with questions you have my number.

Use a genuine Subaru thermostat and gasket only. Don't drive the car with any sort of leak...Head gasket failure on these is far to easy to accomplish. Change the fluid (turkey baster) and bleed the clutch master (bleed like brakes).

From what I understood from somebody on the tour it was special, done for the 10th anniversary of the SVX only and it isn't a typical thing they do. However, I bet if we asked nicely they'd do a USMB group tour. Ill try to ask the SVX owner who their club collaberated with. Unfortunately, they have a plant where there really aren't very many Subaru fanatics. (Basically Chicago)

Junkyard: Take Colfax east past Airport Road (Aurora) to ZENO street. There are 3 junkyards on Zeno, you want the one at the end of the street. The one "Action" might have it as well but they usually have Older stuff than U-Pull to Save does.

Yes. You'd need to take the timing belt covers off both engines then visually compare the two gears I mentioned. The crank gear (center sprocket) is going to have 40 some teeth on it instead of 6 ears or vice versa and the drivers side cam gear will, on the back side, have 2 teeth that "talk" to the cam angle sensor instead of 5-6. You need to put the kind that came off the old engine onto the new and then reset the timing belt.

If it ran before its probably a cam or crank gear mismatch. If so, you need to take the old crank and drivers side cam gear off the old engine and install to the rebuilt.

Insufficient leg and headroom if you ask me but it'd be fun!

Why? It isnt broken. If he doesnt like the 1.8 maybe look into selling the car and getting one with more HP and let somebody else have the good mileage car. Gas prices are pretty bad as it is--somebody should get a little break.

Check awdpirates.net theres a guy on there that does it but I dont remember who. Worth joining their forum if you havent already, neat group of people for sure....not USMB's clean atmosphere but they play fair IMO.

Ok here its not really an Advertisement and theres actual content in the information you are providing about the kit itself.

Replace the starter contacts or take your starter to an auto electric shop and have it fixed. Or go to Checker, Advance, Shucks, Napa, etc and get a reman one.

Completely re-usable but useful information all the same. Get what you pay for IMO.

Alot of tires, especially Bridgestones as I have seen come on the newer Subarus, howl at certain speeds as they are getting older. You may be experiencing the car being quiet enough at 40 to make the noise noticable and then other noises like wind, etc mask it past 40. You might request that the dealer put a different set of tires on the car from a demo car or something with newer tires, and go from there.

You could try putting the long bolt back in before the strut. Ive never had to touch that big bolt before. Loosen something else and on the two lower bolts get one in and then sit on the floor and take your feet and push the hub into the side of the strut and have a friend throw the bolt thru when it lines up.

Low octane fuel causes carbon buildup in engine which results in the tops of the pistons becoming caked with carbon and ring landings to be plugged full of it as well. Also, the newer cars like the LLBeans and Tribeca are VERY well soundproofed and you might not even hear it pinging. (and nobody listens to their stereo loud and everybody always pays attention to their engine sounds and not their fellow passengers, cell phone, navigation system, radio, CB, etc.) And do you really want to have another thing to worry about over a 3 dollar a tank difference? The world has enough stress thrown around without adding unnecessarily to it. Stick with listening for clicking CV axles like the rest of Subaru owners.

Definately Use premium. Thats a very expensive engine to have trouble with and its not worth the risk. I know a guy that blew one of the H6 3.0's up and it cost him 10,000 dollars to have the engine replaced at the dealership. Its ABSOLUTELY a high compression engine.

Bent valves would register ZERO compression. Timing is definately off if its coughing. You said you put a 2.5 in place of the 2.2. The easiest way to do this is to install the 2.2 intake manifold and all its sensors, gears, and wiring onto the 2.5L motor. Thats assuming your 2.2 has the cyl heads and front timing belt plastic that is identical in appearance to your 2.5. You must put the same configuration of cam and crank angle gears on your 2.5 as was on the 2.2. The crank gear will have 42 teeth or so instead of 6 like the older engines have...and the cam gear on the drivers side of the engine will have 6 teeth pointers on the back that talk to the cam angle sensor instead of 2. You need to keep virtually everything from your original engine and transfer it to the longblock 2.5 to even have a chance of it running. Also: Its going to be a lot easier to compare all the parts and swap stuff over with the engine out so pull the 2.5 back out of the car and while you have it out adjust the valve clearances. .008 and .010 are intake and exhaust for this engine give or take a little bit...like .002 at the most. You want this thing to run good so this will help insure that it will and if you need to do a compression test on the engine you need to know that the valves are opening all the way and closing all the way. These numbers could even be that low from a weak battery. Make sure its real well charged before doing any compression tests.

Ask a dealership to run your VIN number or tranny code sticker to check ratio.

Ultra Grey is great stuff.

A former board member (RacerX) used to do tint for local subaru dealers and does side jobs occasionally. If you PM me Ill provide his # but I dont think he'd like it posted on a forum.

Couldnt agree more and its 9 years old. People that recommend not doing the water pump (say to do it every other time you do a timing belt) would say that you should average 15K a year and need it swapped every 4 years or so. Coolant should be changed every other year MINIMUM on a Subaru and if it hasnt been the corrosion on the WP bearing would be enough to warrant replacement as well.

You need to take it to a shop that has a select monitor. Independent subaru specialists and Dealers have them. They can pull the trans code and diagnose it.