ShawnW

They should be different lengths but its possible somebody just bought a pair.

I was wondering that the other day too but I cant remember his handle...just his old car which was a Brat with a road runner down the side of it from over 5 years ago.

Do that enough times (not sure how many) and you will end up with just the mooshy center and nobody wants that, or to have some creepy owl speculate how many licks it would take. Id agree with the license plate logic posted here. My opinion is that if its not your car fuzz it out and if you or the vehicle in question is doing something controvercial or illegal then blurr it out too. Sweet brat too, looks like Jerry's old one and that one was CHERRY. I'd know I owned it for a while. Curse the day I sold that!

Pretty sure they would the hubs and offsets on the wheels are similar.

Yeah same guy. Just too busy to keep up with email alot of the time. What you have to do is do a 90-96 shortblock with the 99/00 heads on it.

The 99/00 heads are different, they are like a Ej25 SOHC head and the intake from the 98 and earlier wont bolt to it.

Those are the breather plate and access holes for the wrist pins. Shouldnt need anything done to them either. If you can afford it buy the genuine Subaru manuals from the dealership or on CDROM thru Ebay as well as lots of other suppliers. The Haynes book is slightly better than the Chiltons is...the worst book available but still better than nothing.

Meeting Andrew is worth it guys...a very nice guy with a heck of a Soob collection. Lets see what hes planning.

Ya know, you are right I should be but for now I am just disapponted but I am sure that will pass. Speaking of passing, the beast sure does it well and it turns heads. Coming back thru Utah I passed a slightly newer vanagon with a VW engine in it still and I looked in the mirror to see what headlights it has (mine is the older round light kind) and that ends in 85 I think, and I couldnt hardly tell which headlights he had. The thing I did notice as I honked and went past the guy was the doubletake he did seeing me go up a 5 percent grade at more than 20 MPH faster than he could do. Oh and mine is louder than his. But In a good way. The next one (if there is another) will get KEP's cat and muffler package. Right now I am running the stock VW cat and muffler. In fact I will probably build the next one with a full california emission setup so that it can be sold to someone in California and they can smog it with the paperwork that Kennedy Engineered products worked hard to get. Theirs keeps the noise down, power up and smog controlled all in 1.

Well I made it home but it was certainly interesting. Left here last Wednesday after work. The vanaru was running FLAWLESS until I got within 2 miles of the I-15/I-70 interchange and BAM the temp gauge is at 280. Shut it down and coasted the rest of the way down the hill and then towed it with the Toyota to the gas station where we slept in the vanagon till morning (was about 2AM when it got hot). We were tired anyway so I wasn't overly frustrated. The next day we found a clamp on the throttle body preheat line to be slid down and figured that it let a little air in thru the gap and just needs bleeding. Seemed like we were right on this...It made it from there to L.A. without much trouble...temp gauge a few degrees hotter in places than I would like but never past 215....considering this is thru Vegas and skirting past the Mojave Desert in 126 degree temps and the sun blazing I couldn't complain. After we got to LA we parked it at a family members house. We came back to the van to take it to a motel room for the night and it overheated again. Got it burped and it made it to the motel. Next morning we leave for Big Bear Lake. This is about 125 miles. It never went past 192 even when a family member flagged us down to stop because boiling coolant was coming out of the overflow bottle. Refill and burp and it limped into Big Bear lake for the weekend. I Decided that removal of the heater system was necessary. It has a lot of little joints in it and if the heater core has a pinhole leak in it somewhere I might not be able to tell. I was getting heat in the van even with the heater shut off (valve closes) so removing and routing the heater in/out to each other seemed like a luxary improvement too as I wouldnt be in 1xx degree temps with the heater blowing hot on me. This seemed to help ALOT but again the van got hot in Movave, CA in a traffic jam. (thanks to whomever it was that decided to run a red light and plow their car into the traffic light controller box!!!). Re-Burp in Autozone parking lot at what might be the worst Autozone in the country and proceeded north to Sacramento....or at least tried. Spent the night in a truck stop parking lot after yet another traffic jam caused yet another overheat. Got my new to me Moped in Sacramento and left toward Reno and got hot again about 25 miles from Reno. Probably the nicest place we have had a breakdown thusfar on the trip so I couldnt complain. Now the van has changed its mind on how its going to overheat. Now it will complain about the coolant fill bottle being low BEFORE the van overheats blinking the red warning light in the dash and giving me time to stop where its more convenient. Now for some reason if I pull over I can stop, relax, open the engine compartment lid, open the radiator cap, let the air escape from the coolant bottle and thus sucking fluid out of the overflow tank to its proper level again, and then take off again. Also finding that the van only overheats at this point in the game if I rev the engine HARD to climb a big pass or something...if I stay out of it just to a 95 percent level, it will maintain well enough. Funny thing is, it did need air bled about 8-10 times between Reno and Denver but it made it. Overall: Mission accomplished. Toyota delivered to LA, moped picked up in Sacramento, family visit accomplished, and we get home in one piece on the day we planned on returning. The failures did cause the van to get examined more closely and improved upon in a few ways during the trip and also gave us some stop and smell the roses time....although not always in a place that I would ever stop again or at least not at that time of the day. I bought an aftermarket thermostat for a spare in Reno and 2 extra gallons of antifreeze in Utah but I still got home with a gallon and a half of those 2 and the thermostat unused. Im pretty sunburned in the left arm (couldnt use the A/C that I worked for the last 2 weeks to get lines for and hooked up), tired, and now I have a van with its heater core lines removed and a pretty banged up cooling system. Im starting to re-evaluate what I want to have for my "ultimate road trip vehicle" and wonder if the Vanaru is really the ultimate. Thinking Landcruiser or if I had the $ a Sportsmobile. But all things considered it got me home, it certainly got higher mileage than either of the two other options, its a Subaru engine so I can actually work on it when something does happen and its a heck of a lot cheaper to own than either of those would be...$50K for a sportsmobile and at least 10K to have a cruiser that has the power and quality body that I would want. Two stretches I got 24MPG with it and every stretch I got at least 20 which is amazing considering how much stuff I had in the van and how hard I pushed it most of the time....most of the time High RPM made it run cooler (water pump turns more often?) Thank you to everyone along that way that called, offered help, directions, etc.

3/16 works on front and rear.

Take the craftsman punch and put a 3/8" extension on it. It fits just inside it and then you can pound on it HARD.

Exactly. Snap on would be my choice but same point.

Not a bad idea! Is it double walled pipe or single?

Did you put in an OEM PCV valve recently? Maybe you switched oil from Pennsoil or Havoline to Mobil, Castrol GTX or Valvoline? The latter three being REAL GOOD and the first two being BAD in a flat 4 engine.

Sweet project. Reminds me of one here in Denver with a silver formerly turbo wagon. Now hurry up and embarass me and get it done; like tomorrow so McBrat can give me &*$_ LIKE FOREVER.

Id pull the tranny and then drill the torque converter bolts out (you might lose the torque converter but oh well). The drive rod runs from the torque converter all the way thru the trans clutch packs. The odds of damaging anything from pulling it and reinstalling it are very slim though, if its slides in by hand you are fine.

The heads are a direct bolt on. The block for a 99 DOHC is EXACTLY the same as a 00 SOHC.

The Ej22 (90 Legacy) exhaust rubs on the cross member on mine. What are you guys doing to fix that?

What you need an alternator to move the car for? Runs on a battery that long.

Ill be thru Sacramento and Reno around Sunday the 13th night/monday 14th if that works for anybody.

Let us know how it goes i am thinking of doing it.

You need a VW clutch and Kennedy's flywheel. The clutch is required because the splines on the clutch slide onto the tranny and the Soob one won't slide on. But while you are waiting....pull the flywheel and clutch off the Subaru engine and inspect the rear main seal and most importantly the breather plate on the back of the engine. If its plastic go to the dealer and spend the $20 for a metal one and RTV it on.

If you washed the engine compartment or ran thru a big puddle that might be why it came on. They do fail regularly. They affect ALOT more than people think, as stated above they retard/advance timing, which does mess with fuel mix, etc. Probably around $100 for a new one from the dealer if I had to guess but you could try used ones from a pull a part yard, probably pull 5 in under 30 minutes. Unplug it with a small flat screwdriver, then Sneak a 12" extension behind the throttle cable attachments and unbolt it from the engine. If you dont have a torque wrench a 3/8" 6" long ratchet with a 12" extension should give you about the right torque.

This is looking like a worthy goal for me to actually have my wagon running. I will not be hitting the trails very hard but Ill give it my all to at least show up!