ShawnW

If you washed the engine compartment or ran thru a big puddle that might be why it came on. They do fail regularly. They affect ALOT more than people think, as stated above they retard/advance timing, which does mess with fuel mix, etc. Probably around $100 for a new one from the dealer if I had to guess but you could try used ones from a pull a part yard, probably pull 5 in under 30 minutes. Unplug it with a small flat screwdriver, then Sneak a 12" extension behind the throttle cable attachments and unbolt it from the engine. If you dont have a torque wrench a 3/8" 6" long ratchet with a 12" extension should give you about the right torque.

This is looking like a worthy goal for me to actually have my wagon running. I will not be hitting the trails very hard but Ill give it my all to at least show up!

Fine line between hobby and mental illness. zero here. Consider me in rehab.

Yours works cuz the FPR cuts it down. It wont be happy forever but in a pinch do it. Just remember...running lean is BAD news especially for a turbo.

I didnt move it but I totally understand why. The historic forum is intended for restoration type discussion and or sticking with stock setups as the retrofitting is using newer/other Subaru parts in another Subaru. They also set a redirect in the historic forum so those guys would see the topic...actually gives the thread double exposure this way.

Lemme know if a Vanagon shows up. Thanks for your legwork!

Im thinking of having a set powdercoated grey or black. The thing that worries me is tire shops are real hard on the rims when mounting the tires.

Oil ends up in the coolant recovery tank because of a head gasket failure. PERIOD. You do not necessarily need to have an engine that overheats to have a head gasket failure either. There are "internal" head gasket failures and "external." BUT>> Make sure its not from the past. These engines are NOTORIOUS for blowing head gaskets and its possible that somebody has already replaced them in the past and neglected to clean out the coolant bottle when they installed them. Pretty shotty work but it happens VERY OFTEN. These engines are tricky, this isnt just some import engine so unless he is at a minimum dealer trained on Subaru's do not let him do the work. His price is pretty typical for a shop but if its a neighbor doing the work in his driveway with no company standing behind the work you could really be up a creek if anything he does isn't perfect. Bent valves, nearly unnoticable warped surfaces and a quad cam engine that most typical mechanics arent used to come to mind. ..OR... source a rebuilt engine and have him install it (just about anybody can install a Subaru engine).

Im out, ill be in LA that weekend.

Another vote Legacy...90-94 non turbo manual trans...SOLID car!

Sidewinder seems to always have a set around.

Pretty wild! I wish i had known about that setup when I did my air cooled vanagon cyclops light...i had a lot of space problems and this probably woulda solved it. Eventually Ill do it to the 84.

So you have the Ign relay ground wire hooked up, the straight yellow wires hooked to battery and the yellow/red wires to ign on and it still won't fire? You also have ign on power to the diode?

I like the idea of moving the radiator but where to?

Gear ratio, steel vs alloy wheels, and tire size will also do it. The 2.2 is also a "torquey" engine and better takeoff but the 2.5's are better top end.

I agree with bushbasher. 135HP with most Ej22's (2.2L engine) (stay below 1996 so you dont have an interference engine).

Did you put in a new water pump or did you try replacing the gasket and putting the old one back on? You need a new one and a new gasket. If it leaks its probably cuz you didnt get the right gasket on or you didnt get all of the old one off.

It could also be PING.

If you intend to keep the vehicle for a while insert it with the M10x1.25 thread. Use a timesert they're much better than any helicoil. I for one hate working on cars that are 1/2 SAE and 1/2 metric and sticking with M10x1.25 keeps the whole car metric. Tapping up to the next SAE size doesnt mean it wont happen at that size...it just means eventually you are going to run out of metal to tap up to.

New here is definately a relative term but alot hasnt changed since 1990. Most questions here are engine or transmission related and alot of that hasnt changed much in 17+ years either. Definately use search to narrow it down.

EXACTLY what I mean. If you have both engines and take both crank pullies off the engines you will see what I mean, sorry no picture at the time. All that is really important is to use all the related parts from 1 engine. I believe but I havent tried it before, that you COULD use the upper cam gears off a DOHC on a SOHC and the DOHC crank gear and have an engine run right...and that you would also use the intake manifold and wiring from whatever matches the CAR as well. This would trick the engine into thinking it had quad cams. If it works on a 2.5-->2.2 conversion I dont see why it wouldnt here.

Couldnt agree more.

If you extended the cam/crank/knock wires..they happen to be shielded wire-- be absolutely sure that none of that shielding is interfering (touching what its shielding). There is a difference in length on those wires from 90/91 to 92-94 of about 13 inches according to Kennedy (vanagon conversion wiring info provider) but their suggestion is to move the bracket off the bellhousing and rotate the knock sensor 210 or 270 degrees to accomodate the relocating.

When I get mine back you can borrow it but it may be a few days.

Are you sure you have the right crank gear installed? Theres one with 6 ears and one with a ton of little teeth. They must match the cam and ECU that they belong with. In 99 a SOHC would have a 6 ear one. In 2000 the MT has one kind and AT has the other and from there newer is all tiny tooth ones. Of course Subaru tosses a few jokers in here and there to mess with "rules" but these are pretty safe.