ShawnW

IAC didnt help. I turned the throttle stop screw on the throttlebody and that helped some but it flutters at idle still. Im not 3 footing it very much anymore though. Today I put the skylight we got from the skylight guy in Canada in and I must say this is a really nice product, nicer than the original and cheaper by ALOT than the Westfalia companies original supplier (here in the USA) http://www.theskylightguy.com/ They tried to deliver the pop top seal that goes around the edge of the camper shell but it has a signature required on it so they didn't leave it on my very safe porch. Oh well piece of mind is nice for the shipper and I get it.

I gave you those years ago if they are the ones I think they are. I found them in the back of a mid to late 70's car in a junkyard in Illinois if I remember right. I held em up to the car I found them in and they didnt look right for it though.

With an ej22 in the car it will go well over 60.

VERY Swappable.

AWESOME! This turned out to be a great topic, one that makes ya think is nice once in a while! More posts from you are definately encouraged!

Wouldnt it be more like 180" ATDC, meaning you get 2 sparks....I thought that was how the coilpack worked, sparking both cyl's on each side simultaniously.

What size envelope should I send you? I love the 6500 RPM redline mod that is perfect. Thanks for doing this service!!! Shawn

I have 3 spares in my garage. Come pick one or PM an address that I can stop by and show off URABUS.

90-94 2.2 are all hyd lifter 95-97 2.2 are about a 70/30 chance of having to adjust valve clearance and having manual lifters. Some of these have the roller rockers (nice!). The newer the engine the more likely it is to have manual lifters though. The 2.5DOHC features hyd lifters in 96 only and from there on the 2.5 has manual (shims) right thru to the SOHC in 2000/2001 but they left the valve shims behind and went back to the adjusters being part of the rocker again. Subaru does it right the first time and then messes it up from then on out until they make another change. The procedure for adjusing the valves on the manual lifter 2.2 is very much the same as the old engines though. COLD engine, loosen the adjuster nut, set the lash, and tighten the nut back down while holding the adjuster with a flat tip screwdriver. Turn the engine 180 degrees between each cyl and run 1,3,2,4. If you get frustrated with having to adjust valves you can retrofit the hyd rocker assembly onto the head. Bolt on operation.

You gotta have axles to roll it around.

Excellent idea, that or a slim jim. Otherwise break the door panel and get another from a salvage yard after you fix the door.

You cant use a timing light on these engines it is all self adjusting (computer controlled). Plugging the green connectors together didnt accomplish anything either, that is the older Loyale/GL system that required that. Are you sure its ping and not another noise? What octane fuel are you running? Is your car a high altitude car (altitude compensator equipped)? Chiltons is probably leading you on wild goose chases, that manual is horrible. The haynes is a step up but not enough on a Turbo to be worth owning IMO. Piggyback controller? I wasnt aware that they made one for the early legacy engine. Are you running some sort of custom MAP? Get a brand new knock sensor. That messes with the timing more than anything on these engines. The wiring to it may be suspect as well, the heat the turbo engine puts out really cooks the wiring in that area of the engine compartment.

Not really a whole lot smaller than the original factory sender if you ask me. How about switching to a dummy light (moves sender up on the pump to another hole) and putting a plug in that spot?

Burt Subaru emblem RIVETED into the body, thats a Colorado car.

If you are going to rebuild the engine just wait until you split the case. It will fall out.

I didnt like my CV of Ocala axles. They machined them wrong on the outboards and they caused me to screw up 2 sets of wheel bearings before they finally got them right. Email Marshall at mwolf1303@juno.com about a set. Hes the guy that is MWE axles.

That Dash is very repairable and the way they cut the harness is actually pretty clean compared to what they did to my Vanagon when they YANKED the wires. For 100 bucks you can get an aftermarket stereo that will fit nice in the dash and play MP3's and have a detachable face that you can take with you when you park it somewhere. If you like the car buy it back and have a reputable shop replace the dash or do it yourself.

1 airbag and it might be an Alpine sport or GT model.

Way to go Roo! My dog Sube extends his paw in a giant hi five to yours!!!

Get the funnel it works wonderfully.

Looks good, dust and all. Like you just got back from rallycross.

Just don't pull out in front of somebody--which goes without saying but with no doors you'd really take the hit in the chin.

Hotwire the pump and see if it runs then. If it does the FPCU, a fuse or the relay are bad. On my 83 turbo (not likely the same as yours) the relay is under the pass seat. The FPCU is up above the drivers kick panel near the fuse box and ECU if your car has an ECU.

Take the axles and the trans out of the donor car and you'd be fine to use it just the Turbo trans will like GD says have a weak low range.

These old tranny's are pretty tough. It would entirely depend on how hes going to drive the car. If hes going to not try going 2-4th gear skipping gears and hard downshifts, etc...he may get away with it. The adapter is needed. The depth of the flywheel and the distance between the engine and trans are what is helped by the combo. The clutch disc sizes are the same outer diameter. Thats a GREAT engine for a conversion like this. We dont have the luxary of a 2.0 WRX engine with no ODBII diagnostics and its a lot easier to wire up than any of our WRX engines are. Take pictures and let us know how long the trans lasts if you go with the EA tranny. The WRX one would certainly last longer but I dont know that its a HUGE difference.