ShawnW

So when you say don't remove the 4 bolts, I should be taking off the bolt thru the bushing in callout number 13 below? YES.

Take the balljoint bolt out not the castle nut off the bottom of the control arm. Easier and doesnt do anything to the alignment. Yes, the legacy axles are pretty straight forward/easy.

I think they have that line already. Ya just buy one thats about 6-8 years old and fix it up nice. Skip all the interest, car payments, etc if you do it on a good budget.

Nice work and what a great guy to have as a Hero.

Yup, includes them. Thats what you need, the whole axle.

I have an engine in the same car you have, rebuilt around 65K ago that I would sell for $125 + exchange for yours. Includes manifold, carb, etc...full long block will throw in the alternator, etc as well.

I would keep the EFI, it will be a lot easier in the long run. Order the Vanagon wiring harness conversion diagrams from Kennedy (linked above) and the bell housing adapter/flywheel kit which I think would work on your Karmann but I dont know for sure.

Sweet! Congrats!

EJ20, Ej22 and EJ25's use the same size shortblock, its just the heads that are bigger on the EJ25, which i would recommend steering clear of. Head gasket problems that the Ej22 never had and they are interference engines.

That sounds like McBrat's first lift kit install. I was there I can vouch for it. The instructions and the concensus of the board seems to think the rear is easier than the front but I disagree, thought the front went alot faster.

The VW engines arent as well balanced as the Subaru engines. Don't worry about the bearing placement these have long proven their durability.

try www.thepartsbin.com http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1980&make=SU&model=BRT-4WD-001&category=All&part=Pilot+Bearing

All of the engines you listed are MPFI. The last two digits are the displacement. All of them are really about the same when it comes to adaptability to transmissions as they all bolt to the same transmissions and have the same bellhousing dimensions. I would recommend the EJ22 non Turbo. These don't run as hot as the turbo models and have the most bang for the buck as they can be found in 90-94, 95, 96 and some 97 and 98 models but I would stray away from the newest ones as they moved to interference engines past 97 model year. The extremely minimal power increase is not worth it. Id also recommend this engine as you can modify the wiring harness fairly easily and get advice from people that have done so for their VW Vanagon conversion projects all over the web including here.

Today I installed front headlights that are H4 conversions. A local VW specialty shop was the source, box says EMI on it. They look better and should be brighter, the last time I drove the van in the dark I couldn't see squat with the Wagners that somebody put in.

You can buy a wheel bearing packer tool that will work good, otherwise get a couple of rubber gloves, a huge glob of grease and your palms. Squeeze as much grease as you can into the bearings, then wipe the groove between the races with the tip of your finger until its just barely showing the balls again. The tip on replacing the inner and outer seals is a good one, I had luck (for once) getting the seals at Autozone. Same on the bearings.

Most of the ones you probably saw botched up were from people using a wrench instead of a socket. A deep 1" or so socket is the right tool for the job.

Sounds like your valve cover is leaking. Theres just a rubber gasket. The motor mount should be fixed ASAP but really probably wasn't hurt by this. I think its an M10 x 1.25 bolt, just install it in there and you should be good.

Same deal.

Clean the ground wire on the top of the intake. The likelyhood of this being a valve is poor. But if it is heres some advice on the job you are considering: Take the intake manifold off which is 8 bolts/4 per side, the EGR Pipe (17MM flare wrench--spray pen. oil on 24 hrs before attempting to remove), exhaust nuts (3 nuts per side), a couple of hoses on the back of the water pipe that run up to the throttle body, etc. Take your time and step away from the project for 15 min before you try to do the stuff on the back of the intake but otherwise this isn't terribly hard. Gently lifting up on the intake as you go will help. Obviously move the power steering and AC pumps out of the way before you start, they can be laid on the wheel arches if you remove the battery and air cleaner. Then pull the heads, which you can do in the car if you dont have an engine hoist and it wouldn't be that bad but honestly these engines arent terribly hard to pull. then take the heads to a machine shop to have the valves replaced and the seats cut AND LAPPED IN. It would be fairly reasonable to have done and theres pretty much no way you have all the necessary equipment to do the work right on that.

Sell it to you? She should pay you to take it! Hey alot of people would.

Put an ea81 in there. If your starter isnt on the trans at the very top and instead is slightly to the left/drivers side then you have a car that pretty much accepts it as a bolt in change.

But.... Wheres the USMB decal?

Is it a turbo? That'd be limited edition esp if its a coupe.

Im running 220's in a 2.2 installed in an Outback. I have the roller rockers on the heads and I like the power but I didnt ever run the engine before the engine rebuild. The car was originally an ej25 DOHC and blew its 2nd set of headgaskets so the prior owner dumped the car and my girlfriende ended up the winner.

Wow youre really close to where I live too. I would be happy to give you a tour of my van sometime so you can see the parts, and the troubles I had which most of which you won't run into cuz your van is already water cooled. (Youre smarter than I am for starting out with a water one!)