ShawnW

Thats why youre maxing out your shocks then. On the front there needs to be a strut spacer that goes on top of the strut. On the rear theres a shock extender that mounts either on the top and looks like a 2" horseshoe, or at the bottom and goes from the rear trailing arm to the shock bushing/bolt hole. The lift has served its purpose minus the travel as youre seeing. This lack of travel is probably more illegal than running a 3" lift kit is, if not it should be.

Do you have any sort of extender on your shocks? It sounds like youre missing some key parts to the lift kit possibly.

If you have an emergency in Wyoming and places North of Denver along I-90, etc I may be able to come help you, bring stuff, etc. PM For my phone # and send me your number so I know who's calling if you do call at a weird hour of the day/night. Shawn

Wheres the car in Colorado youre picking up? Let me know if I can help at this end, distance permitting.

Just silicone it, will be fine.

Its all computer controlled, you cant adjust it.

Check your brake fluid level too.

Left hand drill bits work way better with only a little bit of practice.

Thats what I would do, the timing belt is down right fun to do off the car on a bench. Clutch disc, use dealer parts or a LUK brand kit, you will be glad you did.

Replace it, they arent that expensive even for a new one and you dont want to risk it not working in an accident. They arent easy enough to fix to warrant the time.

Make sure the crank pulley is tight. It should be 120 foot pounds, not 80 like most manuals say. this will cause vibration and is very common.

The 3.3 is alot better motor than the 3.0 is.

They have it on file, but its probably not part of the database they were trying to compare to on the computer for service bulletins. I would just give them the VIN and see what they say.

Moving it over onto our server and doing a group effort of maintaining it might be best. That way hosting the photos off this site and the webpage being here helps with the bandwidth and speed of the site and duplication doesnt exist.

New gen axles can handle alot more angle too. They look great guys, nice work. BTW Austin what kind of adhesive did you use to restick your URABUS letters? and How long has it lasted?

http://www.ccrengines.com/

Its ALOT more likely that you are running rich, not burning oil. Check timing, and fuel mixture.

You may have to remove it as stub and axle, then press the stub off with a press.

Depending on the trailer youre going to be pretty disappointed on that trip thru the mountains. 2000 pounds is pushing it, 1500 would be okay but still not fun and you better have a good clutch and patience. Yes on the wiring, get a hoppy brand trailer wiring kit, the generic one works fine. They werent stock but frequently were added.

Flywheel. Timing access plug is the rubber part. Toss it.

I think you need the intermittant wiper control box, its small like a relay. You may need to replace the wiring from the power plug to the switch and control box too.

I wouldnt be surprised if you have solved it already with the timing. Before testing, get it REALLY hot, so the heat is cranking so hot you cant stand it when it comes out and make sure your headlights and other accessories are off. What kind of MPG are you getting so far? Did you plug off the air suction valves in the past with a quarter, etc? Have seen that posted lately.

Power.

Basically you thread the tool onto the end of the axle and the tool pulls it thru the hub by applying pressure against the end toward the hub.

Don't feel bad I lost mine temporarily too. When it finally surfaced in Joy's outback I wanted to blame her but i knew better than to sleep on the couch any more than I already deserve to. My back was sore enough this month.