ShawnW

Basically you thread the tool onto the end of the axle and the tool pulls it thru the hub by applying pressure against the end toward the hub.

Don't feel bad I lost mine temporarily too. When it finally surfaced in Joy's outback I wanted to blame her but i knew better than to sleep on the couch any more than I already deserve to. My back was sore enough this month.

Know anybody over there that would split a transmission case and take a photo for me? Email if you do.

Does it have a Sticker on the valve covers?

No seats, no side steps. Ive got a couple sidesteps if you want to try adding them. I dont think the rocker has the reinforced stuff in it though.

The water pump boxes I see here from Paraut say they fit 1.6L engines and fit the EJ18, EJ22, etc. The only engines here with differences in water pumps are the turbo ones. Same with Oil pumps. Tensioners are pretty universal too.

I think I would try a different distributor.

That would be a pretty rare occurance. Be sure to check your block for cracks before reinstalling the heads. Have seen a couple lately that cracked on the case edges.

The model number is in the tape door. The manufacturer is Panasonic if it starts with a P.

Yes, re-use them. I do it every day.

Remove the black trim piece that surrounds the instrument cluster. It has the 2 vents above the radio in it and is about 30" long. Then theres 4 screws holding the cluster to the car and the speedo cable will need to be disconnected. from there you can see what you need to unplug once you pull it toward you away from the dashboard. Helps to put the tilt steering all the way down before you start.

Yup, pain in the rear. Radiator goes in the stock spot just missing the upper radiator support which i fabricated using a Legacy upper radiator bracket. The cooling system is completely a PITA, adding the front heater box stinks, and im still not driving the van yet. The conversion is way beyond the realm of possibility for most people. You better have a lift and a shop with alot of tools and an experienced mechanic available to you before diving into this mess. Hands down the hardest Vanagon conversion that can be done aside from adding Syncro to it, which I am dumb enough to dream about doing later down the road.

Damn right!

I heard a guy tell me about having this done to an 84 GL before but never found any extenders in yards.

Welcome to a long overdue forum. A brief history is in order and should help show the reasoning for this addition to USMB. Originally when USMB was started, our current user and moderator Subaru3 had a forum for the older models. Eventually everybody was hopping between USMB and his message board and most people were wanting to have a one hop trip to their Subaru addiction so we merged. This distinction has been lost over the years. His website was one of very few showcasing Subarus, and is still alive and well at this location: http://www.vintagesubaru.com The growing value of the original Subarus has really started to take shape. The 360, and Brat are becoming very popular amongst collectors and finding restorable, original cars has become more and more difficult. Finding parts is also a challenge. This forum is intended to serve those purposes but also the older technology you find only in the Historic models, like points ignition, 4 wheel drum brakes, tailgate models, air cooled engines, etc. Id also like to take the time to introduce our natural choices for Moderators. Subaru3, who founded the original forum, and Moosens, a huge fanatic of the 70's cars. I hope they will take the time to introduce themselves here in this thread as well.

They last longer than the head gaskets. Can't be too bad!

Ive seen the car and rode in it with lo range engaged and its definately crawling slower than the 3.7's I have rode in. Im going to be looking into trying to do the same thing in the near future for my car if it works Ill share.

Do not use a "gas wrench" on this. Go to Snap on or Sears and get this: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1965135022.1114658116@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgiaddehjhekfjcegecegjdghldgfk.0&pid=00952160000&vertical=TOOL The advantage of the Snap on linked above is its made for a 10MM and fits better but the craftsman will work. Tap the socket onto the head with a brass hammer and then twist it off. As for the head bolts they are just on there REAL well. They are 12 point head so its hard to mess them up. Just put the head up to the edge of the bench, breaker bar, 3" extension and 12Pt deep 14MM socket on the head bolts and push down hard and swiftly. Helps if you hold the back of the bell housing while you push with your right hand on the one side and hold the crankshaft on the other side.

Are you sure you dont have a vac leak? The hoses under the air boxes like to come off. I wouldnt put money on the injectors being bad, they are really reliable/solid on Subaru's. Try to: check the hard tee hose off the top of the breather plate on the back of the engine bell housing passenger side. This cracks from the heat and causes weird symptoms. Clean the ground wire on the top of the intake manifold. It has a 12MM bolt head. Clean with wire brush, apply dilitheium grease and put it back on. That code means your running too lean or rich according to the book. Are you running a car that has an altitude compensator, that came from a mtn state? Do you have any more codes coming up?

Need to have the code more than anything. I suspect its 02 sensor as they get wet and act funky but guessing is a waste of time. ODBII cars, borrow a scanner or go to Autozone to have the code pulled. Thats 95 and newer for the most part. ODBI cars, 94 and earlier, plug the 2 green connectors under the dash with the key in the off position, then turn the key to ON (not start) and count the morse code flashes that appear on the Check Engine light. long pauses first, then short. 3 long, 2 short is 32, etc.

At least you have the hyd engine. Seem to be better IMO and no valve adjustment necessary.

Id say they are the same as well.

The blocks almost never warp, I have torn down ALOT OF THEM. The heads however, will need to be surfaced. Around 25 a head at most machine shops, maybe more but not tons. You can do it in the car but I wouldn't unless it only needs one side and even then its going to blow the other side very soon.

Please stick to the question, the poster knows its illegal to remove emissions equipment. What he does to his own car is up to him. The leaking EGR valve isn't working anyway so anything he does, legal, proper, or not is probably an improvement. Yes, you can block it off. I would tend to clean it with carb cleaner and try a brand new gasket from the dealer first. Heres the P# 14719KA000

Ya can but why? The ea81 is alot more bulletproof and the gain from all the work is minimal.