ShawnW

303-641-7947.

Maybe we can say hi as were going thru SLC? Not sure what time we'd be thru yet but do you have my cell # from last time we were in town?

Very close to done, a heat shield and some touchups left. It passed smog today and I will plate it tomorrow morning. Probably leave tomrrow night but just put like 100 miles on it and check things over for the night and decide if were going to make it okay or turn back.

Thats exactly what I ended up with, thanks. Got it at Autozone for $55.

Congrats on the progress!

IF the vanagon charge light/charging system problem is fixed here in the next day or so I will be leaving Tues/Wed for the meet. I have only driven it about 3 miles thusfar on the Subaru engine so its going to be an adventure.

Were already providing this in our photo gallery. Go to the top grey bars and look for a photo gallery link.

Fill coolant-done Coolant jugs-done Coolant temp gauge. Not sure how to do this in an inexpensive way. Tips appreciated. Obsticles include the length of the vehicle engine to drivers seat as aftermarket gauges dont account for a VW van.--DONE! Order lug bolts for front, may have too short of ones right now.--CHANGED WHEELS, DONE. Miss the bigger tires I had before but these look good. (Directional Toyo's.) Smog check-closed till Monday License plates-Monday.... Bumper and related trim---Sunday Shifter bushing---not seeming to be a problem anymore after clutch master cyl replacement in past week. Problem left (BIG!) is that the Volts are at 12, not getting a charge. Replaced alt with reman and had main battery tested and still not having luck.

Sometimes you have to look very hard to find a Subaru but they are out there. Try the sky (Gyrocopters), or Hovercrafts, and maybe in a Vanagon.

Looking promising, me, joy, Sube (dog) and the Vanagon.

Find a electric motor rebuilder locally and get the starter contacts from them.

Dont ignore it. It sounds like a lack of oil pressure among other things. Keep in mind the oil light only comes on at between 3 and 7 PSI. At 3000 RPM with a load thats REDICULOUSLY hard on the motor. Might as well run dry really. Also check: Check thrust on the crankshaft for play. See if the crank pulley wobbles and if it doesnt make sure the bolt is tight. If it does you probably have a classic case of crank pulley key breaking and the need for a kit from s-wings. It also sounds like the crank thrust may be gone from a main bearing going south. If so its time for a rebuild. That audio file is helpful but not limiting it to alot. HElps to know its a rotational noise but you really need to get your longest screwdriver out and do the old engine stethoscope test.

Pans are interchangable. Theres a 4.2 qt and a 4.8 qt one. The flat bottomed one is the larger with the round bottom being 4.2. The pistons are usually fine. Scoring on the side indicates prior piston slap issues and tollerance should be measured when this shows. These are balanced from the factory. Turn the crank and have the heads surfaced by a machine shop and you should be good to rebuild.

The AT drain plug thats a 17MM is the same. The Diff plug thats a 21MM, not the same ring. Just re-use that one.

Coming along more, really pouring on the steam trying to get it done in time to drive to WCSS7. Should be some nice surprises for people I hope. Progress tonight: 3rd eye wiring done. Tach wired, autometer "monster" is very over the top but it cracks me up and works so who cares. In stock at Checker also helped decision. CEL wired. Replaced "EGR" light with CEL. Operational thru using the blue with green striped wire off the OXS box found next to the spare tire holder. Speedo cable fixed, broke it swapping in the radiator earlier in project. AIr filter on order still hasn't arrived yet. Clutch master cyl replacement seems good. Replaced instrument cluster. Failure tonight: Air cooled vans dont have the lip on the rear that the coolant jug goes onto. Can't retrofit it there so gotta figure out where to put it now. Space becoming premium under "hood". Subaru temp gauge wiring not for faint of heart and electronic novice. Couldnt get a reading on the outback with my gauge so its obviously not going to work on the VW. Remaining work to be done: Fill coolant Coolant jugs Coolant temp gauge. Not sure how to do this in an inexpensive way. Tips appreciated. Obsticles include the length of the vehicle engine to drivers seat as aftermarket gauges dont account for a VW van. Order lug bolts for front, may have too short of ones right now. Smog check License plates Bumper and related trim Shifter bushing

Im going to be driving from Denver to the show and route 84 is the way. Is this a bad road, tiresome, etc? Is it like a freeway I might have driven coming or going out of Denver that you know of? Similar to I-70 from Denver West? Ill be in the Vanagon and am wondering how long to expect this to take compared to most interstates.

Looks just like Joy's car. We love it. Bought hers with no engine, converted it to an EJ22 and never looked back. The car zips just as good as my dads did with the ej25 on a fresh rebuild so thats as close to an apples to apples comparison as it gets. I did put the delta cams in the 2.2 to even things up a bit.

Am I wrong in thinking you could walk over to the bench grinder and grind the bottom nub off the EA82 and stuff it in? I think the extra bolt down could be hacked off too but may not be necessary.

Does it make noises when you try?

Torn down it won't unseize? Try S'Ok or another brand of super penetrant you like in the cyl overnight for a few days in a row.

That tag is on the engine bellhousing instead of the trans which doesnt help in this case. What model car do you have? Didnt see that in the post.

Or a 3/8 drive 14MM wobble head impact socket.

Tamperproof Torx, I believe they are a M6 or M8 1.25. I think they are that way to prevent theft.

Definately do the VSS and then clear all codes with an ODBII scanner. If the engine light is still on (LIKELY) then attack what its possibly indicating.

Its pretty plug and play even on the electrical. Go for it.