ShawnW

For as rarely as these need changed I wouldnt mess with aftermarket but the Rockauto resource is helpful.

Its pretty flat with a high spot on the outside and an inner ring. The block o rings are the same PN.

How long ago did you order from Mike at Wings?

So have you got a timing light? Their suggestion looks like your timing is at 24 deg and should be at 8.....

Hard to start cold and runs rich.

It should sandwich together by itself if you torqued it enough. I recall my top washer sliding up too far but I could pull it back down in line with the rest just fine.

Holy cow, a fully rebuilt 2.5 can be had for that.

Sorry but whats wrong with a 17MM wobble head box wrench? Fits right on the bolt head and turns the cams and sprocket effortlessly. Turning the cam with the sprocket off, use a set of channellocks and just dont tear up the notch, otherwise you really cant hurt anything. You could even thread the bolt into the cam once the sprocket is off and turn it with that.

I dont think they are worth messing with as the OEM one is going to be ideal for peak gas mileage, etc and the aftermarket might work but the signal isn't going to be quite as perfect. There is a company/website online thats like "cheaper sensors.com" or similar URL that sells them with the factory type plug made by Bosch, which I would trust but then again I have connections to get dealer parts at shop price so I wouldnt mess with aftermarket unless it was over double the $.

IM going to guess that car belonged to family member of the dealership of some kind and so it probably has had ALL of the service done, etc. If you really want the car walk in with $4000 cash and I bet they will bite. These ARE worth that, they are one of the best Subaru's ever made.

Sorry but thats not likely to be the fluid. More than likely an axle going or the front differential fluid needs changed.

Fluid LEVEL is big on these. The symptoms sound like it has a quart or more too much fluid in it. Checking the fluid level is done by having the car at idle, and running the car thru each and every gear, pausing between each one, finally returning to Park and checking level.

Im pretty sure the plates could be sourced from the dealer. Last person that tried that I know of couldnt find a dealer parts counter that knew how to look up the shims, etc. If yours cant, PM me a link to this thread again and I can look in my parts book collection for it. Not sure where the books are right now or id just do it.

Did you put fresh fluid in it? I dont know anybody thats rebuilt one, the parts are very expensive and SUBARU dealer only. Which diff did you start with, ie, from what car?

Also make sure your power steering pump isnt leaking. These leak, and often.

We'd have to pass, that would be donating a possible lawsuit. Were just going to keep on the good side for a while. Thanks though!

Subaru likes to limit the number of parts and engine blocks they are producing at a time. Right now they only have the 2.5 and the Tribeca (EZ30) engine to worry about and this makes the mass production of parts easier and upgrades and changes easier and more cost effective. My question is, why not have the STI's get a closed deck block like the old 2.2 turbo got? That block is unbelievable.

If you have the paperwork take the car back to the 1st shop. They probably didnt replace an idler, didnt slide the tensioner over (only applies to the older style barrel tensioner) or they re-compressed the tensioner incorrectly which would damage it.

Theres a difference in the engine such that they arent interchangable 4wd to 2wd for some reason but i dont remember why.

You are allowed to add photos to the photo gallery here as a part of registration.

I think its a flush and fill tee I installed having a pressure leak. Time to install a piece of copper tube in its place and try again.

A venue with a campground known to anyone within 30 min of Denver? I have plans for a WCSS sized meet in colorado and want to investigate locations and a few practice runs at said location would be wonderful. Vanagon may be doable!

Nope, this air is already filtered so it comes up into the filter box inside the filter. Look in the USRM for the Air suction valve article. I have a couple brand new "silencers" lying around if you need it. Somebody here mentioned you could stick a quarter in there somewhere to fix this at least as a temp fix.

Turbone is exactly right.

Looks good, nice HUGE picture.