ShawnW

I second that.

We have tried 4 different coil packs and a different ECU and ignitor.

1991 Ej22 with a spark issue. The front 2 cyl's get spark, the back two do not. Any ideas on why are appreciated. We have checked the teeth on the cam pulley and crank gear and they seem fine.

Im doing them without a special tool but I do them off the car. What is this tool for?

Soda can crumpled slightly between the pass seat and the e brake handle always worked for me.

New cam in an ea81 requires virtually a full rebuild of the engine and you might as well while youre at it.

Studded snow tires on rear? My votes the U joint in the driveshaft.

Check your pulley for holes down in the recessed areas. If they are there a punch, extension, bolt, etc can be stuffed into the appropriate hole and you can crank on the main bolt with a breaker bar to loosen. If you already have the car on a hoist or jack stands the starter trick works pretty good just scary the first time you do it wrong from what I have heard.

There isnt a way to recondition/repair them. Used or new is about the only way to go. Used is considered illegal but if you do the work I dont see how it would come back to get you.

Might as well put an 1800 in while youre at it, going to be easier.

Its probably a 3.7 trans and turbo splines wont line up with the axles you have but u should try the 2wd ones you have out...just line it up with the stub on the trans and see if it will slide on.

ID of the 2 rings is easy. The more flexible ring is the top ring. The 2nd ring is the one that REQUIRES a ring pliers and is very much breakable. They should have an N or an R on their top edge near the gap and in VERY small lettering sometimes. Most pistons that I have seen dont allow interchange of rings because the groove isnt wide enough for one of them to fit in.

Looks fixable to me.

Boxer + Diesel=VW Vanagon Diesel. Just get the KEP adapter plate and a custom flywheel and of course do all the wiring, fuel changes, etc.

Turn em clockwise with the notch's. You can use a pair of pliers, a cube brake caliper tool or a piece of pipe similar in diameter to the caliper and notched to match the caliper piston.

Nice license plate. Now get it out there in circulation where people can see it!

Nice license plate. Now get it out there in circulation where people can see it!

Looks good but depends on how fast it returns to 20.

This is alot more easily diagnosed by a tire shop. Then can mount it on a balancer and really see what it does.

Put the oil filter back on and use it as a lever to rock the pump off. Simply twist the pump in the block by pushing the filter up and down. then when it starts turning easily pull the pump away from the block. It is VERY easy to crack the pumps inner layer.

You can put a vac gauge on the engine to verify clogged exhaust. 1. Put the gauge on an intake manifold vac source. 2. Allow engine to reach full operating temp. (fans cycle on/off) 3. From idle (700-850 RPM) rev up engine to 2000 RPM. (Vac level on gauge should remain the same) 4. Quickly release throttle and watch gauge. Reading should slowly rise then smoothly return to normal reading you were getting at idle. If it rises or does not quickly return to normal the exhaust is likely restricted. This can be the cat or the muffler even if the muffler is clogged with cat material from a previous cat failure. 5. Disconnect exhaust and test if car fails test.

Totally agree, I do at least 3 of them a week that way without any problem. Dump the Napa part if its not a brown seal. The oem new Brown seals that subaru sells are WAY better.

You may need a vehicle speed sensor. My vanagon does the same thing and its cuz I dont have a Subaru trans mated to it and it has no way of knowing im stopped.

For as rarely as these need changed I wouldnt mess with aftermarket but the Rockauto resource is helpful.

Its pretty flat with a high spot on the outside and an inner ring. The block o rings are the same PN.