ShawnW

The first model to get that AFAIK is the 83-84 Turbos in Australia and other places outside the USA. They look weird but the difference in height for the rear is nice.

Put the trans in the wagon and head to Colorado.

What he said. No synthetic in a Subaru engine until 3K miles.

The 2nd photoshop job really does the idea justice. It needs the longer coupe doors for sure.

What you would have to do is change engine bell housings and then put the ea82 5 speed in.

Vehicle speed sensor is what tells the car to idle rather than die at idle.

Try sending your original axle in to MWE Axles. He will rebuild yours to original factory specs (and then some!). Website here: www.ccrengines.com/mwe

Was the pickup tube removed? Did you forget the check ball or spring in the oil pump?

Pullnsave.com has the price list. Pretty complete but usually the total bill is less as the employees dont always know the full key code for what you bought so they just bs it with "trim" when you buy something they cant identify. I love that yard!

RichieRich here on USMB has a shop in "P-Town". Id trust him to do anything on my car.

The crank has a gear on it. On it, the key is exposed. Point that down and a mark will show that lines up with the ear of the crank position sensor holder on the oil pump. Now point all 4 cam gears so the double marks match each other, and the single marks are up on the intake cam gears and OUT at the exhaust cam gears. The belt is then installed with the SUBARU name readable and not upside down, then the dotted line on the crank and the 4 solid lines on the cam gear where the single marks are at.

Shoot for 75 maybe? Its a nice price IMO.

Flat screwdriver into the slot of the cone washer, whack once then pull screwdriver. Sometimes comes off with screwdriver, othertimes when it doesnt whack the axle with rubber deadblow hammer once and see if it jiggles free. Using a penetrant oil here is wise as well. RUST here frequently.

Im pretty sure those were EJ22's in Gyrocopters. A friend of mine was at the air show and reported them having rebuilt EJ22's from CCR.

The key on the crank gear points down, one cam dot up and one pointing down. Flywheel or not its EASIER out of the car.

Same thing on the newer ones. This is the seal holder im talking about. I like your description of it better than mine.

Careful here.... The trans seals are retained in a threaded insert that threads into the side of the transmission case. This threaded seal holder is threaded to a certain pressure against the differential stubs. If you arent having any trouble with clunking in the front end then mark your trans case and the threaded seal holder to each other before you start unthreading it out of the case. This is known as "backlash" and messing with it is not for the novice mechanic as you can do SEVERE damage to the front ring and pinion gears. Leaks from these seals arent limited to any model and they all use basically the same seal from the factory. Not sure how there would be something special limited to Foresters but i suppose thats possible.

The flat side goes out. The side thats channeled with the spring inserted into the groove goes into the block around the crankshaft.

"This post is useless without pics"

You assemble the crank with the rods and then place it into the block. A little awkward without a fixture but quite doable.

Mick is probably high on the list, I have a bunch as well including 2 that I dont think anybody else has. Pic to follow when I find my camera. My favorite still has to be the Bentley book and that enthusiasm has risen since the purchase of my Vanagon where Bentley IS the FSM. Really easy to follow once you get used to it and since im "in the industry" now I have no problem reading it. for fun I occasionally read the HTKYSA just to think of how much of that used to be greek and now none of it is.

It is the size of a wireless router and has 4 bright yellow plugs going into it. 2 small 10MM nuts secure it and it is up under there where your mechanic is refering to. Dont however confuse it with the TCU (trans computer) which has black connectors. Im sorry but I dont think what you are doing is worth it. Go find an old non turbo automatic Subaru GL from 80-84 if you want that kind of performance.

Yep, in fact thats an upgrade to some that is working in at least 4 cars that I know of.

mine always did, but hes saying he hasnt wired it yet so I dont know how he would know

Copied this post from the Marketplace for some more exposure. Please see the original post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43471