ShawnW

If you are facing the timing belt and oil pump there are 2 idlers to the passenger side that are just that, idlers. The metal casting that holds those two are part of the block so if you shear one off the block is likely junk. There are 3 things the belt passes on in the drivers side of the block, the cogged idler, the tensioner bearing and the water pump. These are all part of their own separate casting and can be replaced without the block being junk.

Youre probably going to be waiting a while for a used 96 model year engine, if in fact they provide a truly 96 model year engine. The exhaust manifold is specific to that year. That is the single port exhaust found only in the 96 year 2.2 and the late 95 2wd Sedan 49 state edition. The engine is NOT interference. That started in 97 with the US exception being the EG33 (SVX ENGINE). The EJ22 non turbo was not sold in a Japanese Market car. Japan's cars have the EJ20 in them, something we didnt see stateside until the turbocharged models came out in around 2002 in the WRX I believe. What should be swapped over? Take the replacement engine down to the longblock and then swap your intake manifold onto it. If the Used engine includes an intake manifold, ac comp, ps pump, etc just save those for a rainy day.

Another vote for head gasket but it would be a waste of time to re-use the shortblock at this point. Rebuild it while its all apart and have a fully rebuilt engine! Do what has been advised for on checking for a rod knock but frankly it is probalby the bearing the failed and the crank is probably ok.

Its leaking at the rear main because your main bearings are failing, specifically the thrust main bearings. A full rebuild of the engine including having the crankshaft turned would fix the problem. It also could be failing if you are using a NAPA or other aftermarket type gasket. I single out the Napa because I have seen more of theirs fail than normal. Use only a Subaru genuine seal. Turbo and MPFI owners have a breather plate on the rear of their engine may have a leaking plate rather than a rear main seal. The only way to know for sure which is leaking is to pull the engine away from the trans and inspect.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm

Boy thats a goal I could see for my project car. I wonder if I could pull that off.

At a minimum the headlight switch needs to be turned on. If you press the button in and flip from hi to low beams you will see what position it lights up the switch in and know when its on.

You mean a Brumby or MV right? They only called it a Brat in the USA.

In the front doors?! Really? Would you mind pulling a door panel and taking a picture for me? Truly appreciate it if you would.

Completely normal to have the one cam be tight and want to spring back while the other will turn more than 1/2 turn before it does the same. If you are following the manual be sure you dont follow the part where it tells you to point both dots on the cam gear up or down. The correct way is One is up, one is down.

Is the hill holder to blame here?

On the 83/84 is this the box in the fender well on the Left side of the car?

Usually you can whack the old wiper blade pin against a solid surface and force it thru the hole and then pop it into the new blade.

The book is indicating this is a new for 84 option.

Make sure the spacer is lined up and then push from the inboard side by hand. It may help to have a friend take a 6" socket extension and hold it inside the bearings as you push the axle thru to keep the spacer lined up and everything from binding.

I have a 1984 Service Training booklet I got from Ebay that says the 84 Station wagon and sedan with Power windows has wiring for front door speakers which they refer to as CENTER speakers. Anybody able to confirm this with a picture? I want to see where they installed speakers in the doors, and what the brackets looked like. Apparently they were a 5x2 inch. Im more inclined to believe its the 4 door sedan and not the wagon from 84 and would take info on that one as well. The Sedan is said to have the front, "center" and Rear which is the rear sill under the back window.

Use the marketplace forum.

I heard mine sputter a few days ago (ea81T) but I have a fuel pump wiring circuit that wont power the pump to fix.

Thats a really good deal. I ended up with 24" long all around and I can get the end configs that the company I got put down on the receipt if that helps.

The cams are usually different duration.

No way at all, sorry.

Sorry I cant pull parts for you, just an FYI on the car being there. Its pull a part only so you or a friend have to go.

So did any of you remove the door moldings when you did it? Im thinking of welding the holes shut but I dont know if it would weld easy. Im thinking of trying "DURABAK" which is at this addy: www.durabakbedliner.com Dark blue on a silver car might look good.

I just got mine locally. $114 out the door in stock with new horseshoe clip retainers. Ive got disc's in the rear so I wanted to know i was getting the right ones. Thanks all!

Ill measure tomorrow.