ShawnW

Theres a bearing on the shaft to keep it centered in the case but they are usually fine. The seal if you take the tranny apart and get it out will have a number on it and usually you can match it up with that.

Hey Rick have you taken that Brat on any Sweet jumps?

5280Wagon 88XT6Joe BajaVWSoobNut BillyC BlueSoob Bratsrus1 Caboobaroo Carfreak ccrinc ChefTim Cutie-Ru Dave Valiant DR RX DrKrazy EdRach ElcaminoKurt Eyesore Garner GeoffreyR Hassey HondaSucks Jayhawk Jeffast123 Jibs JMR052 KingBobDole LegacyMax Lmdew Magnificent Subaru McBrat, aka Mick82 Mikew MilesFox Mudrat79 MWEAxles MykeysToy NoahDL88 Northguy Northwet NVZeno OddComp offroadsubaruguy OneEye Ozified Patsco PutnamJ Qman Ratty2Austin Redlance Richierich Ricochet Roobuilders Shadow ShadyIrishmen SingleTrack Skip SmartService SnowMan Snowstormer SteelyDel stngllhm SubaruTex Subarweenie Subiegal SubieMan SubieMech85 Sweet82 Syrinx Szigi TailgateWagon TBWTRW TeaguesAuto TheSubaruJunkie aka Subaru4wd TheSuckerKing TimHansen Tj Drury Todds Turbone TurboXT UniqueTII UrabusMom Vickaroo Wasteland Whippet Wings1200s (Swingstuff) XenonGod ZannyDook Zapar Zefy Zoombaru 89 I think....

Im not sure but I think you would leave the turbo ECU in and possibly have it run OK. The Pinout on the ECU from Ej22 to EJ22 turbo is 1 pin flipped but I dont have my pinout diagram handy to know which 2 it is.

Ive got that style lift on my 83 Wagon and the guy that welded it is going to have them available shortly for around $450 plus shipping. All of them will be a 4" kit all around, the only part not being 4" is the strut extension which will be a 3" to extend the life of the front axles. They are only offered for an 80-84 (plus 80-89/87 Hatch/Brat). The unit will ship in 3 major sections, REAR, FRONT, and two long bars to connect front to rear that run below the existing Unibody frame rails. Unfortunately action shots arent available yet as my car doesnt have a running engine in it yet but that should be remedied in roughly 30 days. (2.2 conversion in progress)

I 2nd that, every time I have sold him something hes been a class act about it.

Yes, same diameter.

We have some real nice old Subarus running around these parts as long as they didnt see what I call "Hill service" in their life. Those are the ones people bought cuz they live in the hills and they only drive it from the garage at their house down the side of a mountain to their "real car". Running a car for 3 minutes each way being started cold each time is a real kicker to a car after a while. But its a true testiment to the greatness of the 4wd in our Subaru's.

Where I live an alternator from the junkyard would not be worth a trip to jail but thats just me. Here they range from 12-35 and occasionally they add a core.

My day today was pulling the intake manifold and full wiring harness from a 94 Legacy that seemed to have every option known to man on it except Turbo. height control, heated this or that, ABS..... Tonight I am stripping the harness for the ej22 conversion. Ive done a bunch of em now so thats the easy part for me. Your list sounds long but it will go quick.

MY money is on the power steering pump leaking.

BINGO. That tensioner was probably damaged by re-using it. They cant be pressed back and re-pinned as easily as the old ones, and if he did it in a vise it damages it internally. The re-use has to be done very gently and slowly and not horizantally like you would in a vise it has to be done in a press so you can monitor that its not going in crooked or anything. Ask that he get a BRAND NEW tensioner from the dealer.

Has anybody here just taken the 90-94 legacy wagon or sedan exhaust and chopped it in a couple places to use the center section and muffler?

If you can take a picture of your engine bay I will add an arrow to it for you. Shoot the picture from the top of the engine and focus on the rear by the bellhousing, not on the starter side but the pass side.

Which shop?

Penciled in thank you for putting a meet together!

They are diagnostic connectors and are intended to be unplugged. I believe they are a manual way to put the car in "LIMP MODE" but im still digging on their full function.

It would seem you might have the wires to the coil on wrong? Which wire colors do you have going to + and - on yours? The ECU isnt necessary to make it run, just controls fuel mixture. Spark is independent. Yours would fire with it unplugged even. I wish mine (1983 Fuel Injected Turbo) was that way. BTW did you get the disty I mailed you? I never got an email from FedEx saying it was delivered which seems weird.

Id say its the accel pump.

A 2wd compact toyota pickup would get good mileage,be comfortable to drive and reliable. A 94 or so 1.8L impreza would be real good on gas and have the same reliabilty as a 90-94 legacy with the same comfort as long as you arent over 6'1" tall. If you can spare the AWD I would, or if you want an automatic install a switch on the FWD fuse so you can cut off power to the rear wheels. This does save some gas.

Simpler: Buy the funnel referenced in my prior post. Available many other places but cheapest here I think....http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis-22150.html This prevents spilling, burps the system and automatically removes air pockets. To drain system, remove petcock and thermostat housing and remove thermostat. Remove radiator cap and replace with spill free funnel. Remove overflow bottle and dump out its contents and set the empty bottle onto the radiator again. Replace thermostat and gasket with OEM and replace hoses. To fill: Place heater selector on hot, and turn fan to 2nd speed. Fill system until spill free funnel has 4" of coolant stored in it and start engine. Idle engine until radiator fans come on and heat coming out of the vents is hot and observe that the temp gauge is not above the 1/2 mark. Place stopper in spill free funnel, remove it from the filler neck and drain remains into overflow bottle. Coolant should be 50-50 mixture unless you never drive the car at a temp less than 32 degrees. Most people take their car somewhere cold in the course of a year.

Take the whole assembly off the car and it gets really obvious. When I remove these from the car to remove an engine I take the two ends off the valve covers and route them thru the engine compartment and then take the big hose clamp off at the TB and the lid and MAF off the air filter box as one big piece. Cant lose em this way and you can check for broken hose while you are at it. There are 2 that run from the valve covers up to that tubing, and one off the IAC valve. These are probably 10MM ID hoses so theyre pretty good size. They only fit one way without kinking them or something is why i say they are obvious.

Sounds like the accel cable is misrouted or kinking against something or maybe one of the nuts on the cruise or accel cable is not tight, or the rubber tip on the accel cable is floating around on the cable itself and not stuck to its housing. Look REALLY closely at the area where the cables go to the throttle body to be sure. I have fixed 2 cars that had the engine R&R'd on where the little rubber thing got lodged down in the accel cable bracket so you would step on the gas and the throttle would stick there, let off, stays there, hit gas again the rubber would dislodge...repeat.

All the ea82 models except maybe XT/xt6 have the same wheelbase so you could use the 2 piece from them but you would have to add a center bearing mount. I just took my Brat driveshaft down to a shop and had them lengthen it.

Spray carb cleaner in it like you would a carb car, just pop the rubber pleneum that says SUBARU FI on it off and spray it in there and then return the rubber to the throttle body and attempt to start it. It should momentarily run. You can also find a T fitting that is in the charcoal canister to intake plumbing and pop the line off that and spray some in there instead.