ShawnW

Try a brand new key. The dealer can cut one with the key code (likely stamped on one of the original keys).

Masking tape.

A swivel socket helps alot. Thats one where the socket is built into the wobble. You could also remove the axle inner joint from the trans and hit it directly.

Martin, welcome! Same one that was from Canada? We should meet up sometime and PM me for some repair shop recommendations in the area if you need.

Looking for a few more players, its a Rec league that plays on Monday nights ranging from 6pm to 11pm starting times. 44 minute game, inside, on astroturf. Games are at the north jeffco arena. pretty much you could play free till the next season to just try it out. Most of the players are from www.awdpirates.net and are good guys.

Subaru High Mileage club! http://hometown.aol.com/nv1z/subaruhighmileage.html?f=fs

In the post "about 80's subaru wagons", Bill Putney mentioned the advisability and the difficulty with changing the 7mm water hose between the manifold and the thermostat on the EA82 turbo engine. The clamp under the intake manifold can only be seen with a mirror and is almost impossible to reach. After trying several shapes and lengths of needle nose pliers to reach and squeeze the clamp ears together, I bought a heavy duty hemostat from a surplus store for about $4.00. It is the tool that doctors use to clamp off blood vessels and latches closed when you grip something. I heated and bent the handles up about 45 degrees to clear everything and allow room to operate my hands. I had to cut the noses down to about 2 inches because at full length they flexed too much to squeeze the ears completely together. Once I located the ears and latched the hemostat, I could slip the clamp off and on with ease-I should patent it!

In addition, on 80-84 models if the fan isnt coming on check the ground wire that runs from the top of the radiator to the body. These are broken or corroded rather often.

Dash and temp. problems Posted by Mile Hi Sub Dash and temp problems can be diagnosed and separated by disconnecting the sender and placing a resistor of any wattage from the dash input line to ground. The book says a 15 ohm should give about all segments lit, a 27 ohm should give 4 to 6 lit, and 39 ohm 1 or 2 lit . The 15ohm resistor should give full scale 248 f on a analogue gauge This all should happen about 8 seconds after the ign. is turned on. These are standard value ris. that are avail. instead of the weird ones in the book. Source 1987 FSM

Subaru ECU Codes Posted by Skip; from Ultimate Subaru Message Board Subject: codes Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 03:47:55 -0600 From: codes.autoresponder@portability.net To: neper@westol.com Subaru Trouble Codes --- CODE RETRIEVAL -- There are self diagnostic connectors on all models which, when connected together with the key in the ON position (engine off) flash diagnostic codes through the LED light on the Oxygen Monitor on the ECU. The connectors are under the steering wheel, to the left of the Oxygen Monitor on most models. On Carbureted and Single-Point Fuel Injected 1989 Models, the test connectors are located on the engine side of the firewall, on the driver's side. Impreza models have the ECU and test connectors located behind the right side of the dash instead of the left. On SVX models the connectors are located behind the driver's kick panel. There are four test modes. With NEITHER test connector connected, and the key in the ON (engine off) position, the light will display codes that relate to starting and driving. With ONLY the "Read Memory" connector connected, historic codes will be displayed. With ONLY the "Test Mode" connector connected, a dealership technician can perform dynamic tests. The last mode is for clearing codes (see below). The codes are displayed as pulses of the LED mounted on the module. The long pulses (1.2 Seconds) indicate tens and the short pulses (.2 seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by .3-Second pauses, and multiple codes are separated by 1.8-Second pauses. (See Example Below) (Note: On 1989 Multi-Point Fuel Injected Models, the Oxygen Sensor Monitor Light and ECU are mounted under the rear seat package shelf, and are accessible only from the trunk.) On 1990 Models, the trouble codes on the Justy are viewed on the Oxygen Monitor Light Only, while on other models, the codes can be viewed on either the Oxygen Sensor Monitor or the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine Light) on the dash. 1995 Impreza and Legacy Models have OBD-II Diagnostics Systems. The OBD-II codes can be extracted and cleared with either a Subaru Factory Tool, called the "Subaru Select Monitor) or with a universal OBD-II scan tool. Although an expensive scan tool is required to retrieve these new, five-character diagnostic codes, the basic codes can still be obtained using the flashing MIL. --- CLEARING CODES --- Codes will clear only when the faulty system or circuit is repaired. After making the repairs, codes can be cleared by connecting TWO pairs of connectors, the "Self-Diagnostic" connectors, and the "Read Memory" connectors that are usually located right next to the diagnostic connectors. To begin, start with a warmed up engine, turn the engine off, connect both pairs of connectors, then start the engine. This should clear the codes. If this fails to clear the codes, consult an Authorized Subaru Technician. --- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE --- 1.2 second pulse (10) .3 second pause 1.2 second pulse (10....for a total of 20) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23) (Code 23 -- Oxygen Sensor) --- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE --- 1.2 second pulse (10) .3 second pause 1.2 second pulse (10....for a total of 20) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23) 1.8 second pause (this means NEW code) 1.2 second pulse (10) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 11) .3 second pause .2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 12) (Codes 23 and 12, Oxygen Sensor and Starter Circuit) The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed. --- CODE EXPLANATIONS --- -- 1983 Carbureted Models -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11,12,21,22 Ignition Pulse System 14,24,41,42 Vacuum Switches Stay On 15,51,52 Solenoid Valve Stays On or Off 23 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 32 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 33 Main System in Feedback 34,43 Choke Power Stays On or Off 42 Clutch Switch or Circuit -- 1984 Through 1988 Carbureted Models -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Ignition Pulse System 22 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 23 Oxygen Sensor 24 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 25 Coolant Temperature Sensor (1984 Models) 25 Manifold Vacuum Sensor or Circuit (1985-1988 Models) 32 Duty Solenoid Valve or Circuit 33 Main System in Feedback 34 Back Up System 42 Clutch Switch or Circuit 52 Solenoid Valve Control System 53 Fuel Pump or Circuit 54 Choke Control System 55 Upshift Control 62 EGR Solenoid Valve Control 63 Canister Solenoid Valve or Circuit 64 Vacuum Line Control Valve or Circuit 65 Float Chamber Vent COntrol Valve or Circuit 71 Ignition Pulse System 73 Ignition Pulse System 74 Ignition Pulse System -- For 1984 through 1986 Fuel Injected Models -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Ignition Pulse 12 Starter Switch Off 13 Starter Switch On 14 Airflow Meter or Circuit 15 Atmospheric Pressure Switch - Fixed Value 16 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 17 Starter Switch or Circuit 21 Seized Air Flow Meter Flap 22 Pressure or Vacuum Switches - Fixed Value 23 Idle Switch - Fixed Value 24 Wide Open Throttle Switch - Fixed Value 25 Throttle Sensor Idle Switch or Circuit 31 Speed Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Coolant Sensor or Circuit 34 Abnormal Aspirated Air Thermosensor (In Airflow Meter) 35 Air Flow Meter or EGR Solenoid Switch or Circuit 41 Atmosphere Pressure Sensor or Circuit 42 Fuel Injector - Fixed Value 43,55 KDLH Control System 46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit 47 Fuel Injector 53 Fuel Pump or Circuit 57 Canister Control System 58 Air Control System 62 EGR Control System 88 TBI Control Unit -- 1987 Fuel Injected Models -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Ignition Pulse/Crank Angle Sensor 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Injectors 1 and 2 15 Injectors 3 and 4 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 22 Knock Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid Valve Stuck On or Off 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 41 Lean Fuel Mixture Indicated 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit -- 1988 and Later Models with Multi-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy) 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 15 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel Injector No. 5 and 6 (XT-6) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (XT) 17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX) 17 Fuel injector No. 1 and 2 (XT-6) 18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX) 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX) 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy) 23 Pressure Sensor (Justy) 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy) 24 Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve (Justy) 25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6) 26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy) 28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side) 29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2) 31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX) 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza) 36 Ignitor Circuit (Justy) 37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX) 38 Engine Torque Control (SVX) 41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 43 Throttle Switch (Justy) 44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) 45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) 45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non- Turbo Models) 49 Airflow Sensor 51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models) 51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models) 52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy) 52 Clutch Switch (Justy) 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 56 EGR System 61 Parking Brake Switch (Loyale) 61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza) 62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza) 62 Electric Load Signal (Justy) 63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza) 63 Blower Fan Switch (Justy) 65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor John Wainwright ASE Master Tech

I am going to be selling a lift kit soon that adds a full frame under your Brat. That'd keep it nice and solid.

Adam, thank you very much for posting your picture. I didnt want to without your permission. That front piece should be pretty easy for the welder to do and shouldn't add much $. McBrat had one that took on a deer and that bar was a big help in his.

Remember these? AdamNDJ has a purple one above with the extra upper brace which I think we can do. I got the jig over 2 years ago from the original maker and have found someone willing to build them here in Colorado. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/2guard_001-med.jpg Im selling mine first as I am getting a new one. Mine is already powdercoated but a tiny bit of rust showing thru in a few of the welds from a poor powdercoating job. Price will be in this ballpark for the new ones. They only mount to 80-84 4wd cars that have the chrome bar under your front bumper. I will sell you one if yours is 2wd, loyale body, etc but fabbing it to work with your car is your problem. If you find a way that is easily reproduced and strong and are willing to send me specs please do. See post in marketplace for the thread about mine here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=396218#post396218

I vote winter beater too. Keep that pretty paintjob out of the salt. Run around all winter with no tailgate if you can, that one looks like its worth saving.

If it runs good, passes smog, everything works and the only rust is in a fender that'd be a $2000 ish one pretty easy. Gen1's around here arent that common but up in the hills their #'s increase rapidly because of lack of smog requirements. QMAN may have looked @ pics or noticed things I wouldnt notice without seeing it in person so that might help...can I come look sometime?

Timing Belt tensioner going bad taking out the valves on 3/4?

Shift on the fly to me means no clutch pedal is depressed. The RX one you need to depress it to low range dont you?

Somebody grab that, what a gem!

The sender isnt below the alternator thats the oil idiot light. Your temp sender is on the "water pipe" below the intake manifold on the passenger side, again single prong. I bet its just not plugged in.

Point #8 can be solved by using flex radiator hose available from Napa. They sell hose that has 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 on each end so your existing radiator will work. I did the lower end pretty stock shaped but the upper radiator hose I had to loop around and use a long hose so it did a "loopdy loop". Twin row radiators do not fit with the stock fan, and might fit with a slimmer fan.

Did you loosen the idler/tensioner? Sometimes it will look like its a fixed position idler but its really not. If that doesnt help and theres an alternator involved make sure you have loosened the pivot bolt and the adjuster and that you have moved it all the way loose before trying to install the belt.

The 99 Model year 2.2 is the PITA because it is an 8 bolt bellhousing, rear thrust block and the interference engine. Its the only year I know of that is like that.

Looks good in the daylight!

Whats a GTB engine? Is that the ej25 DOHC or the EJ20?

I keep adding names from all the fond memories. Working toward hitting 100.