ShawnW

You should be able to swap the stacks into the dual range case and keep dual range.

Im less than a week away from driving my 83 Turbowagon if all goes well. This is assuming some lift kit parts are fabricated in time so its not all in my control. Project began a day after WCSS3. Remaining: Brake bleed/fix-currently NO pedal response. Stainless steel brake lines steering column bearings for ign switch Pour gas in, set timing, make it start

I was able to swap the stub axles in the trans for mine recently and therefore sold my custom axles. To do it I just took my ring gear off and put it on the regular dual range spider set and then dropped the front diff gears back into the trans. Really not terribly hard.

Air chisel it. Put a notch into the flat part on one edge by pushing straight toward the plug, then when a good notch is dented in push the gun left a bit against the edge of the notch to loosen it. from there the 1/2" gun should remove it.

Yup, the LED just goes in line and ground it on the other side.

Same as the ea82 ones. Green and black connectors like usual. Just gotta have a LED on the check engine wire from the ECU.

Thanks!

I can get you a plug for your EGR hole in the head. PM me if you want me to aquire one.

Today Eyesore and I went to the yards in search of Seats for our 80-84 style GL's. Scored big. A car that is in every pull a part in the country I would guess. The Mid 90's Saturn cars have a seat that is comfortable, well padded, nice lumbar, etc but best of all: Seat tracks line up nearly dead on in the front mounts and with 8 thick washers per side and a hole thru the floor the rear bolt holes are easy to create. The blue ones are a near perfect match to the interior color of my Turbowagon and the tan interior of Tom's hatch really looks good with the black seats that have tan accents. The first car took about 30 min to install 2 seats, the 2nd took about 20 min. Removal of the seats from the Saturn requires a Torx socket. Toms donor car had external torx (E10 socket fit perfectly, the one used from the Snap on truck for rear diff stub removal) and mine internal torx in the mid 40's size. I want to say it was a T45. Tom needed an 18MM socket to remove the seat belt bolt on his set and the same 45 ish internal torx was on my set to remove the seat belt.

It also could have a bunch of moisture (coolant/water/oil mix from prior engine) in the exhaust system causing it to white smoke.

Pull the codes out of the ecu.

Could go SPFI for highest reliability and not need to change heads.

The wedge speaker enclosures for 6x9's fit nice behind the front seats and you can leave all the stock speakers in for a easy return to stock should you decide to sell, etc later.

Im looking at just putting a 5.25" in each door? Anybody else do that?

Get a 1 piece driveshaft made. One from a Brat, or that era wagon would be 1 piece. Just have it made to the right length and bolt it in.

This method works almost every time.

Can you point me to info on that on the subaru website? I havent heard of that option yet.

Nope, they dont interchange.

Usually you can clean the existing grounds with a wire brush and put dielectic grease on the contacts to keep em good. Medium sized wire on top of the intake and another one usually on the transmission.

You need to start by getting an ODBII scan done. Find out what the code is and return with the #.

So, I have this car. Its an 83 Turbowagon. I have NEVER driven it. I bought it just after WCSS3 from Qman. When I bought it the engine was toasted and the transmission was not looking good from the dipstick, governor gear, etc. Assumed to be toasted as well. I have towed it: From Qmans house to Greenville, Iowa utilizing a Uhaul truck and my 90 Legacy to flat tow it. That'd be 1657 miles. Then from there to Iowa City. Another 250 miles. Then back to Greenville. Another 250. Then to Denver. 693 miles. Add another 10 miles within Denver by towtruck. 2860 miles of TOWING and yes, again I must restate...never driven the car. I have added or changed on the car: AT to Manual trans with pedal swap Ign switch replaced disc brake conversion BYB lift kit 3" Removed BYB and added a new 4" lift to the car with a full frame. RX trans install Power window conversion 1/3 done CCR Rebuilt engine installed Custom axles installed Custom axles removed Rx trans removed to replace stub axles with std ones and rebuilt trans LSD rear diff installed 1 pc lengthened driveshaft installed Jerry's 5 speed kit installed, might need rework now that I have 4" lift. pugs Master cyl replaced, finding it isnt working now. 94 Toyota Celica seats going in soon Someday I might hear the engine that CCR rebuilt for me run. Hi, Im shawnw and I am a Subaru addict with the only car I know that has had 2 different lift kits on it and still hasnt seen the road. I am an addict.

It probably has a clogged cat on it. I know a subaru rebuilder that quit doing Justy engines because customers would refuse to replace the catalyst and then blame the engine builder for premature failure.

The ring gears are interchangable. The pinion shafts are not. The problem is from the factory these are a matched set and are curved to one another. Swapping is doable but you need to keep in mind that the gears might not mesh together initially causing the trans to whine and they could wear out prematurely. But really, who cares! I just swapped out the stub axles on my RX Box so this is fresh in my mind.

Heres as complete as I care to add but also answers your question. Its certainly not hijacking you are asking a followup to the original thread and this keeps pertinent information in the same thread for better future search results. I appreciate your following up on the same thread. Theres a screen in ALL of these EJ Automatics. The guy that posted a photo above with the dirty one shown on the right is it, found inside the trans pan and secured with 8 bolts or so to the valve body. Be sure to not damage or lose the o ring on the filter when changing it out. Its my opinion that theres no reason to open the trans pan and clean this unless your transmission is demonstrating symptoms similar to lack of fluid flow or you are doing a shift kit installation (well worth it). The side filter starts 6/98 or so and looks just like an oil filter only smaller than the Oil filter found on a Legacy. Its usually black and threaded horizantally to the transmission on the drivers side on USA and LHD models. The factory trans filter is all I would EVER Recommend. They are around $30 MSRP from Subaru and only need changing at 45-60K intervals. A 98 Outback would be the earlier 4eat EJ transmission and subsequently has no screw on filter and the external one on the frame rail DOES NOT FIT ANYTHING WITH AN EJ25 so you dont have one. Ej22 equipped cars from 90-97 MAY have the external filter kit installed. It runs off the radiator down to a black filter bolted to the frame rail below the battery and runs back to the transmission lines. Its a great add on for anybody that has an ej22 and can be ordered from the dealer as a recall kit for a VERY reasonable price.

Its probably routed wrong. Check to see if theres a rub spot on the cable where it lies on the steering linkage.