ShawnW

Yes, remove the clips, spread the opening on the strut body and pull the brake line thru the gap. Dont open the hyd system.

Make sure you have diagnosed the problem before you have come to a conclusion and get mad at Subaru before you take it to the Subaru dealer or subaru independent specialist for a proper diagnosis. This car needs to be plugged into a Select Monitor, a Subaru specific tool. When you first start the car is the AT OIL TEMP light flashing 5 times and then shutting off? If so you have a trouble code in the trans. More than likely it will tell the mechanic who can tell you what is wrong with it very quickly. Second, most SUBARU transmission failures can be fixed without rebuilding the actual transmission. There are alot of valve body problems and solenoids that can be changed out by dropping the pan and doing some work in there or by replacing the torque converter......The number one problem with Subaru transmissions since the first 4eat trans.

Motorcycle cleaner works nice for general cleaning, grease and oil come off best with a harsh degreaser like the Gunk Brand stuff or if you want the best deal around go to Wal-Mart and get their "SuperTech" 99 cent degreaser.

Agree with The dude, trust the mechanic on this one.

The base plate on these carbs tends to warp. Companies not familiar with Subaru carburators will rebuild them warped and that would mean to me that you have an internal vac leak. Their diagnosis is probably correct. Who rebuilt your carbs? Did you have Roobuilders do it? He specializes in Subaru carbs and does fabulous work. Just hard to get a hold of him.

Are you checking the auto trans fluid by doing the following? (Suspect you may not be, so you are under/overfilled.) Engine running, run thru all gears pausing for a moment at each one going up and down. Return to park, leave car running, and carefully check fluid with car at idle wiping off dipstick and checking fluid with a dry dipstick. If overfilled the car will make funny noises and whine. I check mine after a 30 minute drive as it gives a better indicator of smelly fluid when you pull the dipstick out the steam will "reak" badly on a worn transmission. Make sure to chock wheels and maybe even have a trustworthy friend or family member do the "driving" while you check you dont want to get run over by your own car. I saw this happen at a convenience store once and I dont think the TV commercial where the boyfriend/husband got run over by his signficant other is very funny anymore. Trans takes Dexron III, not plus, not anything just cheap dexron red fluid. Dont put any additives in to try to fix these either, it wont help. If youre fluids are still fine then just drain the front differential, put new of that in and drive the car. Thats really whats going to help this little gem, lotsa driving around. Sitting isnt what a car is meant to do.

Almost all of them are an OEM bearing #6207 in somebody elses packaging. I got a set on ebay pretty reasonable. The Subaru ones arent terribly expensive if you want to pay for the pretty box.

Wiring harness picture posted, please read the comments I have posted if interested. Tomorrow morning I will put the plastic wire coating back on, I left it at work. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5778&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

Doesnt look too awful, glad youre ok though. Lotsa Subaru's out there ya know.

Sounds more like an axle to me. Check the the struts, they should have a stamped indicator of driver or passenger on the tops or on the insert above the hubs. Instead of removing a component repair it, that way you know its not driveline slop.

The sound may be the trans swapping fluids between the front diff and trans. Those seals are old and the problem is common in the 3spd automatics. I hope not but low mileage older cars have seal related issues quite often. Drain both and look for thinning oil or oils that match in smell and viscosity.

Today we got a wiring harness to work and the engine fired up for the 1st time since I rebuilt it. I brought the harness home for cleanup and tomorrow a double check of my cleanup and then pretty it up. Then finish "plumbing and heating", create the end for the accel cable, and wire the VW 2 speed fan. Might actually drive it soon!!!!! Getting all excited now.

have you had any transmission problems?

Well the diameter would be the same, but as it wears the disc would have the symptoms you have. Id say yes, you have the wrong one. Order one for an 84 Brumby (or whatever is the year before Australia got thee ea82) and see what comes in.

I think it might be time to put an oil cooler on if you havent already. Subaru offered them in turbo model legacy's and some outbacks in the 96-99 era.

What did you do with the heater lines on the 2.2? They are important in getting the engine to cool right.

check the big hoses that run to the valve covers. it sounds like your low on crankcase pressure, which causes poor idle, a ticking noise increase, etc.

Absolutely true, the bottom edge of the auto trans ones has a deeper opening for the torque converter to clear, etc. The bolt holes to bolt the bellhousing to the back of the engine block are further recessed than on the Manual ea81 bellhousing. I think you should be okay though on the bus.

an impact/air Chattergun ought to do it. Split the thing up the side. Might cost you a lug stud on each one but they arent hard to press in.

just inspect the brake pads. Not being driven over 30 mph it probably will burn oil for a while, go get it going on the freeway after a 20-30 min around town drive....let things free up first, and the rings should come back I would think. THen change the oil, probably 2 more times in the next 500 miles just to free up all the sludge. Sounds like a nice deal to me.

no and no, not without modification but it has been done by welding some brackets onto the 82 wagon seats and not using the seat sliders from the new seats.

Gear ratio difference can make this difference in feel and mileage. Im very surprised your ODBII wont plug into it, never ran into that before.

You only need Basic tools, and a c clamp to compress them works well. Large Channellocks work great too just dont tear the caliper seals. Subaru brakes are very easy to do, just loosen the lower bolt and pivot the caliper out of the way, replace the pads, and bolt back together.

Counting teeth isn't necessary. Point the crank so the crank gear mark lines up at 12 o clock and the key is down, point the two cams so the arrow points toward 2 o clock and the mark at noon points at the inner plastic marker. Then put the belt on with the dotted line at the crank 12 o clock, and the solids at the cam 12 o clock mark. Get this all lined up and email me a photo if you want me to verify its right.

Never put the cam gears on your motor backwards. The cam angle sensor drives a LOT of stuff. Oh, and don't let your boss be the one to figure out you did that. My new nickname is MAC. Thats CAM backwards.