SubaRube

Here's a place that lists a 4x140 to 4x100 adapter plate. http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp?pg=2&ID=75528&returnURL=%2Fproduct%2Easp%3Fsource%3D%26ID%3D75528%26returnURL%3D%252Fproduct%255Flist%252Easp%253Fid%253D1324

Here's a cool calculator for offset and wheel widths, if you don't already have one. http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/offset.html

I believe the 13's are +42mm and pugs are +20mm. I'm not too sure if all the pug's are the same or not.

The fan should be coming on. Probably a bad thermo switch. It's common on our cars. I gotta go , but someone else will be with you shortly.

Is it overheating at idle or while cruising at speed? How fast does it "shoot up to red"?

Which fan? Clutch fan or electric? Is it overheating at idle or cruising speeds?

I noticed a while back that AutoPartsGiant.com has remanufactured fuel pumps for our spfi's for $98 plus $45 core charge. They're from a company called Python Injection.

Yeah, subaru_styles is right, you can get plenty of body parts for our cars. Probably made in China.

It's really easy. Take off the end caps. I used a nail to punch the pins out.Roll it up and throw a rubber band on it. Take some vise grips and twist the spring up nice and snug, don't twist it so much that it breaks the spring. Now with the tension on, have someone hold the vise grips while you put the opposite end cap back on. Once the pin is back in the end cap, you can release the vise grips. Voila!

New tires will certainly help. Especially if they are unevenly worn. A new set of tires and struts/shocks smoothed out my ride quite a bit. I have been riding on a clicking left axle for over 8 months now. I never even hear the click anymore 'cause I just avoid doing any u-turns while in gear. It hasn't caused a vibration problem for me yet.

Are you saying they estimated ALL the work (Axles,brakes,etc.) would be about a grand, or just the axles?

Remember, you get what you pay for. The Accel is the cheapest replacement going. It's actually cheaper than the Bosch, Beck/Arnley, GP Sorensen, Borg-Warner, and AC Delco OE replacement coils. They claim "high performance", not "reliability". I haven't had a problem with mine yet, but I do carry the Hitachi with me just in case.

We also need an FAQ page and more submissions to the USRM. That would take care of a lot of the same old questions.

Has anyone ever tried Klasse wax from Germany? I've heard good things, but haven't tried it yet. http://www.premiumautocare.com/premiumautocare/klallinone10.html

LOL! Good one.

Either 5.5" or 6" according to the chart. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/peugeot-reference.jpg

I had some really bad bucking after washing my car last month. Water in the gas. Some Seafoam took care of it.

Maybe I'll grab some covers from the cleanest JY EA82 I can find and switch 'em out. One that looks likes it wasn't leaking before it died. I don't know the history of my vehicle too well, so they could have been overtorqued by some renob along the way. Thanks for the replies.

It seems to be both that are leaking. I think it been around 6-7k since they were replaced. I guess I will re-torque 'em and hope for the best.

Well you're almost correct. I originally said "cam covers". I couldn't remember what they're called on our subes. How about "cam housing cover gaskets"?

My valve cover seals were replaced about 8 months ago, and now they're leaking again. Is this pretty common for an EA82 with 180,000 on it? Do they need to be re-torqued periodically?

The only listing I could find has 85-94 DL,GL,Loyale all with the same windshield, FW499. Lots of companies save money by using the same glass within the car line.

I noticed a few when I was on ebay yesterday.

Somewhere on page 2 or 3 there's a breakdown of the damage. Gnarly.

I'd like to see more pics too. Cheap and easy, my favorite combo.