NoahDL88

Thanks, i just got a long block form CCR and i seem to have a heck of a lot of blowby, and i'm gonna wait to try and break it in more, but i would be nice to get some of that blowby to go byebye

Qman swears by the 5spd, and Eric swears by the 4spd, its in the air, i'm sure there are pros and cons for both, i'd reccomend the EA-81 flywheel though with the EA-81 pressure plate and the EA-82 clutch if you go with the 5spd. need also the EA-82 throw out bearing. either way they both have their advantages

do a search on hp EA-81's there has been plenty of disussion about them

front diff is 3.7, the first gear is 3.454, Going off of the 87, which is EA-82, but it works for comparison, Front diff 3.7 Front reduction .974 Rear reduction .948 rear diff 3.9 thats for the 3AT, SPFI/Carb, for the turbo the rear is 3.7 and the rear reduction is .933. so there you have it, an auto with a 3.7 front and a 3.9 rear. btw thats a 4wd GL wagon

The 87 FSM recommends 90 or higher on all models. I'd also go with the thought that anything with a turbo shouldn't have 87, it should have midgrade or higher, thats just me though.

Checked the FSM and it says to "never use champion plugs for spfi models." just a thought, there was a debate a while back on what to use, it looks like they came from the factory with NGK's

this seating the rings thing with bon ami, could you elaborate?

Its the green connectors next to the fuel filter. at least with the SPFI

I'm supprized that no one will empty it, be sure to let them know that you don't intend to refill it, i can't think of any car place that would turn you away, they get to charge you and they get some free R-12 which is expensive to get.

Pull the plug on it, the low pressure sensor. and then jump the connection with a paper clip, if you have the fittings to test pressure check to see for pressure, if you don't have a pressure gauge, just check to see how cold the air is coming out of the vents on a 2 or 3 setting, not 4, it should be around 40-50, anything less than 50 is good. by jumping the sensor, or the wires to it rather, you can see if all the other components are working. the subaru in question unless its a loyale will have R-12 which is about 15 bucks an ounce, rather than the new R-134a which is about 2 dollars a pound.

It was advancing your timing, and runing 93, the 93 let you advance the timing, and advancing the timing increased your power. With the stumbling problem, check your TPS, run it in and out with an ohm meter and check for smooth operation, if it sticks it will lean out and then suddenly flood, causing a stumble

I used the JB weld, but i seem to be getting some seepage, but i'm gonna recheck that some time this week. as far as jetting, for stock setups, and from what i hear, all setups. Idle 60P 50S Main 140 Correction 170P 160S That should get you in the right dirction

Brakes should always be done in pairs, if you change somthing on one side you should change it on the left, that goes for rotors pads and calipers.

I believe that getting rid of the hill holder is as easy as using an automatic's master cylinder, no HH no problems.

you could do a quick alignmenct check, with the tires straight measure from one side to the other on the front and the back, it'll help to have someone else hold the other side of the tape measure. if these arn't within about an 1/8 of an inch your toe is off, that would certainly cause a heck of a wabble. to make measuring easier, use a tread block as a guide rather than the sidewall.

I've got new updated pics in the album, she runs, but has a pinhole coolant leak and the carby is giving me some issues, seems to run rich, but then stumbles after being on it for a while. oh well i'll sort that out eventually.

Wish me luck i think i have the right parts for the swap. i'll be taking pics of all the flywheel and clutch stuff for the archives, EA-82/EA-81 side by side. if this works i should be driving under my own power for the first time in a month and a half.

you are useing an EA-81 wheel on an EA-82, the EA-81's wont fit, the caliper size is different compared to the models.

are the lug nuts loose?, how bout the axle nut?

did you break in the engine properly? the rings may need to be seated better, that could clear up your oil consumption. if its both on decel and accel i'm thinking it could be they missed the valve stem oil guides, with it burning on both ends it could be rings or valves. if its just one or the other there pretty easy to diagnose.

I put in a new napa thermostat last summer, it was great, the car never over heated, but when winter came around she never got warm, i took out the thermostat and it was broken, the housing split and the thing was stuck open. so just cause its new, dosn't mean its good. it could also be your radiator cap, those are pretty easy to find at the pap and are cheap, 1 dollar. just an idea, those can go bad too. it may not be allowing enough pressure or somthing along those lines.

i accidently put my inner seals on backwards, and i toasted both sides bearings in less than a year, i can't help you with the legacy swap possibility, but i would reccomend the 207 ss bearings, there sealed and are less prone to getting water and dirt in them.

This mod supposedly works with the older carbureted cars, there are rumors that the 2wd and the 4wd disty are different, some say they are, some say they aren't. i don't think that the FI vehicles would have a different one as the spark advance is controled by the computer. I had mine, carbureted EA-81, advanced by philbin, i havn't had a chance to really open her up because of the clutch slipping but she fells pretty stout at low end.

Gregg, if it makes you feel any better the first time i did my axles it took over 20 hours, the last time i had to do it i had em done in about 2 hours, both sides, with bearings.

Use the same pressrue plate as your flywheel, or it won't work.