NoahDL88

Mine are on the inside, PK said, when i did mine, that you bolt the spacers to the struts, and then the spacer to the body and it will wedge the struts into the body so they don't go anywhere

I admire that you are trying to fix this problem, i swapped in a 5spd DR in place of my 5spd SR over 2 years ago, and i still don't have reverse lights or the dash light that says 4wd. good luck figuring this one out.

So i put a high po EA-81 into my car, and i just can't seem to get it to run right, its been in for 3 months and i've put a total of 78 miles on it, and starting on monday i need to be driving 35 to work and back, so 70 miles a day, i vacuum tested it and it says i have late ignition timing i'm running around 14-16 "hg, but i'm running about 20 degrees already, its got a delta cam and the EA-71 pistons and a recurved distributor, so i think that they may be conflicting with each other, or i have somthing out of wack. any pearls of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Do a search, i think we went over this one a little while ago, and it was pretty extensive, but basically its like what the other two guys said, the GL is "gots lots" and the DL is "didn't leave S**T but an am radio"

excellent point caleb, in "every turbo car" max octane is key, but for those casually reading this, regular is the best for the N/A subies, unless ofcourse you are running higher compression. The owners manual may have a reccomendation, just adjust it to your elevation and you should be good to go.

I don't want to take sides of this argument, but there is no way you'll hit 200 with a EA-80 anything the crank won't take it, it'll crack like a twig. however, there are 4 port EA-82 heads, www.ramengines.com has them, they are very expensive, and even with their custom intake and fuel injection they only put down 140, so, i hate to burst any bubbles, but i'm gonna have to wait and see it before i believe it. The EA-82 and EA-81 are not engineered for power, with single intake and exhaust, and only 2 valves, theres really not a lot of potential to these engines, but by all means that dosn't mean you shouldnt try, it just means that you're not going to go too far with these engines.

see if you can get it running kind of alright, and then spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, you could have a vacuume leak, which could be causing your problems, and is a pretty easy fix.

as far as the 3000, i think that it has two phase steering, at low speeds its opposite, so that it can turn more sharply, /.../ \...\ At high speeds its same phase to make lane changes easier /.../ /.../ On an interesting note, i know that a lot of the big rigs with 4WS use the XT-6 electric rack, so that would make two things better, someone probably has a writeup on the internet, and its subaru, so that makes it that much better.

what did you use behind the pully for a spacer, i looked at the USRM and i don't think that i could fabricate the spacer suggested in the walkthrough.

i have no idea but you could try CCR engines 1-303-293-9230 or Delta Cams 253-572-2474 or Ram engines www.Ramengines.com any one of those should be able to get you what you want

I'm trying to figure out what mine would be, i'm so attached to the 88, that i could never give her up, a kind of half breed DL-GL its great. but if i could have any old school subie, i would break it down two ways, to keep it stock, a gen 1 brat with the twin headlights and jump seats. but if i could customize one it would be a 89 hatchback, EA-81T D/R, gloss black with tinted windows, to look like the one in cannonball run. with scorpion wheels, black, and SSR swampers, and the obvious lift necessary to run the larger tires. with copius amounts of KC lights. the ultimate offroader, however ken's new and improved beast, mudrat's and lumpycam's could still blow it out of the water easy. as far as new, i'm leaning towards the outback sport, its the most "old school" of the new ones. then with the obvious tuning, cobb would turbo the 2.2 block and i'd find a foreign(sic) market dual range, put on a lift kit and get some swampers. i think i have a trend going, don't give me an STi or i'd offroad that one too. Oh, and i want an RX turbo full time 4wd too.

Ditto, get the extra Qt out, it will also cause drag and reduce horse power, but that is the least of your worries. if its ticking and it didn't used to, its because of foam getting to the lifters, not too much of a good thing.

I just got my XT-6 alt from gabe today, i'm gonna wait to put it on until i get the engine issues sorted out, but probably within the month. good luck with the swap

For the record, EA-82 wheels will fit on the EA-81, but not the other way, although in a pinch the EA-81 wheels will fit on the rear of the EA-82

Mine was great for almost a year and then when i swapped in a new engine and used of all things accel wires it took a big crap on me, i'm running the stock coil again and i think i might upgrade to a better one again, but making sure that its vertical, which i guess is easy insurance if they don't like to be sideways.

I blew mine on Queen Anne hill in seattle, the car was full of people and krissy, the pink martini asked "why does it smell like syrup?" so going up this hill at about 6000 rpm and i couldn't stop because if you know the hill, its not one you can easily stop on and fix somthing like a hose. by the time we got to the top it was pretty good and low on coolant, topped her off, cut off the bad section and voila we were on our way. come to think of it, after axles and wheel bearings, thats the third thing that always goes on these, maybe its just my car. on the subject of double checking, when i switch from the swampers to the road tires and vice versa, i always seem to get a loud grinding noise, long story short i always have at least one tire that has loose lug nuts.

So i guess i've just never seen a EA-63, but does the exhaust come out of the back of the head? cause thats weird and neat all at the same time.

don't worry bout the cam seals and the timing belts, it dosn't have them, no worries, i've fallen into that trap too. It wouldn't be a bad time to clean around the engine bay, i had a whole bunch of dirt and oil built up on the inside of my engine bay, i off road so if you don't do that that shouldn't be a problem, but in general a clean car is an easy car to work on.

I was thinking of a similar thing, but more of a book, with all the technical specs, numbers of each model and trim line, with the basic mods, like the lift kits and rear discs, LSD and a few other things, nice with color and we could do some free advertising for PK, Mudrat and TWB, but of course it would take some time, and who would pay for the info when they can get it free, but if some money went to the USMB i'm sure some would buy it just for that. Now that i've put that out there, i'd be willing to help out to make it possible, that way we don't have newbies asking the same old questions like how can i make my hatchback with 72 hp faster.

88 DL, thats mostly GL now, its all in my sig. Proud member of the hatch patrol, i have the scars to prove it, luckely not on my dad's forrester, which i took out once, but with ken's expert spotting i was able to get out unharmed.

If thats low side, thats not uncommon, you could have a resriction somewhere though thats keeping it from coming back to the low side, if its the high side, thats way too low, but be warned the R134a will leak out of the R-12 hoses, it'll take a while but it will none the less. to get more in try to jump the low pressure switch, that'll keep the compressor spinning, and then it will take in more refrigerant. and have the bottle warm, like with one of those heater pads you put in your socks or gloves, not much hotter, don't, don't use a torch, thats bad, real bad.

Where's ken, i want the info on this beast. i'm on the edge of my seat in anticipation.

in sedans and wagons, non turbo, the GL's (EA-82) have single composite headlights and a black "c" pillar on the rear hatch and body color bumpers, the DL's have double headlights and a body color rear pillar, with black bumpers. GL's have just about every option available, PS PW PL AC and the rest, where a DL has an am radio. DL's have a single range and GL's have the dual range, when they have manual transmissions. RX, XT and GL-10 fall into a different category, cause they add turbo and a bunch of other goodies like full time 4WD. but i believe that the DL variants of these have the MPFI without the turbo, or it could be that the GL non turbo's have the MPFI, but to answer your question, yes, you can get MPFI without the turbo.

dump the bosch plugs, german plugs german cars. get a good set of NGK's and suck some seafoam in through a vacuume line, try for somewhere in the middle of the intake or you'll only clean one half of the engine.

true the forged may rattle when cold, but there much stronger than cast, so to me its worth it, and these subies warm up pretty quick.