NoahDL88

I went with the 27 inch on 14" rim SSR's they will only fit with a lift if you want to do minor trimming, if you don't lift it will take a lot of trimming. those are some of the most agressive treads that you can get, i would do a search with rooinaters name as he has done an extensive writeup on tires and wheels. if you don't have the wheels yet there are benifits to both the 14 and 15 inch rims, the 14 put more rubber between the wheel and the rock and the 15 has much more options. just somthing to think about. I have the SSR radials, which are much more quiet then the bias ply, ive had them for a year and i cant say i regret them one bit. there are other tires that you can get pretty cheap from wally world, if you don't mind supporting the evil empire, but they are still very good tires and a good 30-50 dollars cheaper

It would appear that there is no clear cut answer, most auto's had them after 83 and the manuals came later, but i think that dl, and gl made a difference also, if you are unsure there should be a sticker on the side of the valve cover that says do not adjust or somthing to that effect, if you are going for building a custom engine go with the hydro lifter heads the valves are bigger.

The GL's if they had a manual 4wd were all dual range. the DL's had the pushbutton 5 speed, single range. I would explain a loyale as a GL with the DL 4wd tranny.

Diesel or Gas, what do you want it for. both engines have their benifits, and their pitfalls. you wouldn't pull a heavy load with a dragster engine and in the same token you wouldn't drag, top fuel, with a diesel. except for the cold start issues, i'd rather have a small turbo diesel to off road for the low end torque.

Shanonsf: the dual range is always locked when its in 4wd 50/50 if your getting rid of the low range to get a locking center you're doing it for the wrong reasons. with the diff lock on, the FT4wd acts like a single range part time 4wd. all of the manual shift 4wd cars are 50/50 if they're part time.

You may have more luck with the new generation forum because they know more about the new fangled impreza's up there, My best guess would be the ignition switch, there may be somthing internal that is cutting out when you turn the key, try the parking lights, those are independent of the ignition source, if those still work i would go from there.

if you need to keep things on the down low, don't mention them on the board.

last i heard they may be leaning against this plan, good for saab and better for Subaru, besides who wants to buy a Sabaru, think of the parts cross refrence issues when we want to off road them in 20 years.

i've seen sedans with dual range 5 spd. only one but it had the matching dash, so either someone is really good at conversions or its correct. where is decker michigan, i'm in big rapids

I have the 27's on 14 inch rims, they required some fender trimming but when it came down to it, i'd rather have the swampers then the bits of fender i had to remove. besides, once you see your car with them on it you'll never want to go back to the lame 175-60 r13

It won't let your engine get up to operating temps, in the summer you may not even get up to a temp where fuel economy is any good, i don't know where you live but if it gets below say 50 in the winter kiss your heater good bye.

Dang, if you would have told me 3 days ago i could have driven out, you guys have all the fun just as soon as i leave, have fun and be safe, i don't think i could leave my room anyway, i have a nice new video with subaru's and califonia, two very big thumbs up. thanks Zap

From what i have heard from ken and eric stick with the 4 spd tranny for off road, better gearing and the 4th gear in the 4 spd is better for climbing hills at speed on the highway.

Good job, show the guys that just bought the STi the day before that driver experience trumps car 7 days a week

two issues i can think of with a sulfer smell, one if you get rid of the cat you won't pass emissions, in Wa that may or may not affect you, if the cat is bad its because of somthing else, usually the engine is running rich, my guess because of the lopey idle is that you have an ignition miss in one cylinder, either way with it running rich it will burn out the new cat soon as well.

out here in the mid west there are no large bodies of salt water either, we have the largest non frozen reserve of fresh water. that said detroit is on the nations largest underground salt deposit, lets hope it dosn't mix with the lakes.

another tip to get the ball joints out is to hit the side of the piece that its inside of, they will usually pop out after a few hits that way.

I'm jealous i cant go with you guys off roading, theres nothing here but chevys and dust

if you took the disty out when you did the belts you may have put it in a tooth ahead, if you didn't make sure that the green connector under the hood is distconected, its near the fuel filter, it will ping all day and night if thats still connected

I've been trying to go geocashing, we go here in michigan every once in a while, i'm trying to link subies and geocashing, finding ones in the woods, and driving out to them with the roo's, staying on the trails of course.

I didn't notice anything different with just the lift but if you put the bigger tires on it makes stopping harder i even took the sway bar off, it dosn't handle that much worse, i havn't had any problems, if you keep in mind that its a little bit higher you shouldn't have any problems.

I talked with an instructor at my school and i got the go ahead to shot peen an axle and then compare it to the torsional strength of a standard axle, if this works out i may be able to do more so that we can get slightly stronger axles, if its worth it. just givin the heads up.

Is the check valve in the booster line in the right direction? and also after getting a whole bunch of new parts the older lines could have been filled with gunk and it has loosended up and caused blockages, also if you are using a newer MC, i don't have specs but i imagine they get bigger every few years to help brakeing it may be reducing the pressure to the pads, as far as hydraulic principles if you have a bigger MC the effort goes up and the pressure at the pads goes down. new pads do take a few hard stops to seat, and i would reccomend bleading the lines just in case.

I have mine opened up to .050 and it seems to run better, the bigger the gap the more chance of a misfire, but the smaller the gap the weaker the spark, either way you go you trade one thing or another

I'll see what i can do i may be available for the weekend or i may have to work cant say right now but if i can i'll be there