NoahDL88

Despite the fact that it blew a timing belt in Bozman, Montana on a Michigan to Seattle trip Despite the fact that it blew a timing belt idler pully in Forsythe, Montana on a Seattle to Michigan trip I wouldn't trade it for anything, and the timing belts won't be a problem when the brand new CCR EA-81 gets here. Nothing like going out to the "Sheep Ranch" or the powerlines as us school kids call it, with a bone stock DL single range 4WD with bald 175/65R13's and having a built up ford ask if they should wait at the other side of the puddle incase i get stuck. now i have much more invested into the car than i payed for it and instead of geting laughed at now when i hit the trails i bring a crew of dodge pickups, ramchargers, jeeps and tahoes. and i have no problems keeping up, and i break down less to boot.

even with the 1600 pistons and a custom cam from Delta Cams they are still very competitive. i'm waiting on mine as we speak, should be here any day now

I think the Subie community is a little less strict than the FAA, which i could certainly see as being an issue at 15,000 feet. however that fix sounds really neat and tricky/sneaky which makes it even more fun.

I have a 102 inch steel whip, the twangy twangy kind, i can't say as to weather it works better than a shorter one but it looks cool and i can hit stuff 12 feet tall. gets in the way sometimes, but if you get a fire stick or the like make sure you get the spring that goes between the antenna and the mount, just ask Tex and Austin if there worth it.

Chongo, check your thermostat, if its working porperly, no matter the size of the radiator it should put out heat.

bigger tires will make her feel slower because of the change in gearing, i'm running 28" swampers and can really tell the difference even with a manual. depends what you want it for, on road, i'd stick to stock, but if you are going for looks or offroad, bigger tires may slow you down but thats the price you pay to look cool, and go like stink in the mud

Yea i love subaru engineering, everything is easy to fix, except for the axle count and the timing belts. other than that they seem to be the easiest cars to work on, i got the old axle out in less then 15 minutes, it took longer to get the new one in, i ripped the boot a little on the control arm but siliconed it right up no worries. i can hear my self think now that the bearings arn't growling like a cat in a plastic bag. (no cats were harmed in the replacing of my axle)

If you can get the hubs and such off the xt6 front and rear concider yourself lucky then you can switch to a more practical 5 bolt as opposed to the 1 on 140, as far as switching over tex should know about it along with a few others

As i said, i DIDN"T think they fit, but you are correct they do just enough to screw everything up. i got the right one and everything is a ok

I would say head gasket, one more good way of telling is to look for bubbles in the radiator. take off the cap, when the engine is cold and check for bubbles coming out, thats a sure sign of either a cracked head or head gasket giving you problems, do a compression check and find out which side, it may save you some time and money.

I'm not saying that advancing the timing is the end all be all of performance mods, but yes to a point advancing the timing increases the horse power. My point is that switching from 87 to 93 and not doing anything to the car will not do anything at all except hurt your pocketbook.

just to set the record straight, just running a higher octane gas will not increase hp, its the advancing of the timing that increases the power and its the octane that allows the timing to be advanced.

with oil you do get what you pay for. although all the oils on the shelf should have the starburst and the donut, if they don't, don't run them ever. name brand oils will surpass the standards as opposed to just reaching them. i would also reccomend using the oil viscosity that was reccomended from the factory unless you are burning mass oil, when you run a thicker oil it takes longer for the oil to make it to the moving parts, this adds dramatically to the wear that your engine experiences. I run castrol and FHI filters, thats what it got from the factory and thats what she seems to run best with

the price was about 300 with shipping, depending on your options and picking them up yourself you could probably get them for around 200 ish

Soobme I haven't had a chance to put the spacer plate on, the bolts are too short, like a quarter of an inch. i have intake bolts that will take care of that though, i have an axle problem that is taking precidence. Amanda I will get a new sticker pick, just as soon as i get the new stickers on the car, when it gets above freezing.

I didn't think that the 25 fit on the 23, oh well, i'll have to try that on thursday when i get another chance to work on it.

I did the frond wheel bearings on my 88 and they were a breeze, however i also changed an axle, and when i went to drive away the axle pin sheared. i'm sure it was in far enough, but the problem is why? it feels pretty good, maybe a little loose on the stub axle but it shears. And now for the question, are front and rear stub axles interchangeable? cause if they are problem solved, if they arn't well then i'm in for a world of hurt.

I got the new bumpers on the 88 DL this weekend, and i dare say she is looking mean now. http://usmb.net/gallery/album110

do you feel the shake in your steering wheel or your seat?

The gas cap check is for hydrocarbons, and evaporative emissions account for 80% of them, usually through the gas cap, you may not see the benifit of a gas cap check but i'm sure your grandchildren will.

That sounds too cool

Its not corrosion if its on the main journal surface, its aluminum and won't rust it will corrode a bit but thats only places that are not exposed to oil, its a hot spot, thats not good but its not particularly bad either, call emily at ccr and she'll help you out, they are cheaper than trying to rebuild it yourself

I have one sweet set of front and rear bumpers, i got them on the car in less than 12 hours after i got them, i had to go to class first but as soon as i got out, despite the 0 degree weather i got them on, i do have pics but the resolution is too high so i cant post them, if i can get the go ahead for the gallery i will get them up asap.

Not if i do it first, however i will need to graduate, in may, and find a job, yeah right, with this economy. so if you do it within 1 year you will very easily have me beat, and i say go for it, that way i can learn from you, but i would second the learn from mudrat, he is the guru of T-case mods, there are a few others on the board like littlebrownmule or unhatched, i don't recall what his screne name is.

if its leaking out the timing cover it could just be a bad water pump, give it a good once over, don't pull the engine unless you have to, if the pump got kinked the timing belts could be a good time to replace them, along with the front cam seals and an oil pump if it looks old. if you see a visible crack in the side of the block you may be able to jb weld it shut, they have great 2 part epoxys that will hold most anything together.