NoahDL88

a lot changes in 20 years, i was in diapers sucking on a bottle, now i spend my time in more admirable pursuits, like offroading the suby. whats new in the auto world today is old news within 2 years.

The ozified lift to me seems, "better" it dosn't affect any part of the car except wheel well clearance, no changes in camber caster or toe, everything is as it was from the factory, i have yet to see someone who was dissatisfied with the pkdavis lift. its cheap, well not as bad as it could be, already made and could probably be shipped before thanks giving, and there bullet proof, the car will give way before the lift components.

If you need the soleinoid i got em, shippng and handeling and there yours, may still be cheaper in the junk yard though

the viscosity of an oil is the same if the number is the same, dosn't mater if conventional or syn, and 8X more expenseive, are you serious, do you get a back massage and a gold container, maybe 2x, but concidering the added benifits, its certainly worth it, and going 200,000 miles seems to be the minimum on this board. syn oils are better, if an oil barely passes the SL classification its an SL oil, if it greatly surpasses the classification its an SL oil. the starburst oil classification requires the oil to pass a high shear test at 302 degrees, the engine oil never gets that high. the reason that syn oils got a bad rap is because of the same reasons that multi vis got a bad rap in the 60's, they are much better now and on a new car worth every penny. The reason that older engines seem to leak though with the syn oil is that the particles in syn are all the same size, like a marble through a funnel, but the dino oil is all different sizes,marble, ping pong and tennis ball, by comparison, the rubber interaction with seals is not an issue anymore.

At first i was thinking, wow who does dante think he is 60 for a pug, but for a custom rim thats good work, thanks for doing the legwork on this one dante,:wave:

Could be your throttle position sensor, if its got a dead spot it could be catching on a low throttle spot and then suddenly hit the higher rpm, as ususal check the basics, plugs wires and the like, if you have bosch plugs you won't go anywhere. stick with the NGK's

I'd check for vacuume leaks, mine dieseled like a mother until i got rid of all my vacuume leaks, not a whole minute but about 10 seconds, may not help but its a start.

Get the webber 32-26 with the electric choke, easiest way to go, with the conversion kit from weber bout 300$. a four barrel is way way too much carburation, they put 2 barrels on V-8's, a 2 barrel is more than enough and the webber is tried and true.

I don't know about the 5 lug drilling but the 6 is common 139.7mm as opposed to 140. Moving the lugs closer to the center will make the side forces act upon the hub greater and that would increase the chance of breaking. i don't know how reliable the OZ guys have made it but i would reccomend the 6 lug drill route or find a set of peugeot rims, worth the wait they are.

Jason, nice site. I was also thinking about the datsun T-case idea, i signed up on a nissan message board so i could get the dirt on their t-cases. even the standard 2:1 is too light duty, i will be lookin for a 4:1 or better with a split shift so i can run 2lo so i can turn somthing like 35's sorry to hijack your post, too bad about the 4.44 that would add some umph.

If your car is stock only go one or two sizes bigger on the exhaust. i calculated it all out last year in my high performance class, 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 is a good size off the head and two may be too big for the way out to the tailpipe. not only is scavenging important but so is the feet per second that the air is traveling, a good range is 240-260 any faster and that creates back pressure, any slower and it becomes stagnant an looses flow.

I belive that the maind difference in the operating theory behind the spyder and the single tube intake is that the spyder acts like a dual plane manifold and the standard acts like a single plane, which means that at low rpm there is less air to get moving so it will increase torque. depending on the size of the runners it can still flow good at high rpm but the down low, where you need it will be fatter.

http://www.ramengines.com they even have forged .030 over i believe

this may be a mute issue, but have you noticed that there arn't a lot of girls on subaru's in the magazines, they must sell themselves and not need the extra flesh of a floozy to help

I would try grand rapids or lansing, flint as you may know is notorious for GM loyalty and he may have better luck in GR, also there is one on the north end of Kalamazoo but that may be a bit far, Ann Arbor also comes to mind, they seem a bit less under the oppressive command of the general so that might be a good place to start

I was talking with my engine's class prorfessor, and the high volume pumps are only worth it if you are using bigger clearances at the bearings, if you are staying at the stock clearances, as you should for longevity, the high volume pump will only cause more drag on the engine and reduce power.

Check for good spark plugs and wires, if its shakey it could be an issue with the ignition even if they've been done before check the connections and outside appearances on a disty are no indication of the inside, also if the plugs were just done make sure they are NGK cause if they arn't the car won't run for a darn especcially if they are bosch, those make them run like crap

Check the archives, but not much is available without getting into the engine, drilling the airbox, or remiving the bottom entirely only adds 2 cfm of flow to the intake track, so realistically adds .66 hp. the exhaust on the subies is tuned for low end torque so i would leave it that way for good round town traveling. unless you go into the engine you can't really get much more hp

Any non taxed fuel, kerosene, gasoline, diesel is dyed red, so no matter what you get it will be dyed if its for off highway use. Ethanol, or any of the other alcohol used in gas blends acctually increases the octane of the fuel, by up to ten points, and because of its high volatility it evaporates easily and lowers intake temperatures and increases performance that way as well. if there is 10 % ethanol there needs to be 5% stabilizers that keep the ethanol from separating, ethanol and stabilizers of today are much different than those of 1988. in large quantities they will eat away at plastic fuel lines but in quantities of 10% or less there is no appreciable degredation to the fuel lines to cause a worry.

i'd be in on 5 if we can get a good discount for bulk

When your running a turbo you want a pretty stock cam with minimal overlap or you will pressureize your exhaust, and loose power, what works for a turbo does not work for a NA engine and vice versa. stock cams and a mild,"torque" grind cam will give you the best results with a turbo

If you're going to be running a custom cam get the springs from ram, without them you might have vavle float

So i thought that i wanted an RX, only wanted because they're not the off roader that the hatches, wagons and, brats are, but after seeing that i can only say that i need one now. very sharp.

Get NGK, they perform the best in our subarus, thats what they come with from the factory, as far as high performance ones, there is really nothing good out there, or the oem's would be running them from the factory, if you want to get a bit more pep out of your plugs get an accel supercoil, and then gap your plugs to .050 pickup is a little better, but realistically not much more than a foot pound at low end.

Go with delta, closer to 50 bucks a cam plus shipping as opposed to paeco which is about 450 a cam so 900 for both, try ramengines.com they also may have some ea-82 stuff, and the cam would be new not a re grind