NoahDL88

Dennis, it dosn't matter what engine, hp is calculated the same way on every gasoline engine, and diesel too, so no matter the engine size cylinder number or layout the torque and hp will always pass at 5252 and the torque will be higher at lower rpm and the hp will be higher at higher rpms

we have an older mustang dyno at school that dosn't hold rpm, thats just what i'm used to sorry. at 5252 the hp and torque cross, its part of the formula that calculates hp from torque, if it crosses at another point, that is the 5252 rpm, its impossible to cross any where else, why its not crossing there is confusing to say the least, but it will cross there no matter what, there is no way around it.

a real dyno loads the engine so that it can be held at a certain rpm long enough to tune it, the intertal dyno, while just as accurate uses heavy weights, and once spinning won't hold the engine at a certain rpm. Where the black and the blue cross thats 5252, it says that its not, but its impossible for it to cross at any other rpm, so either their tach is wrong, or it wasn't hooked up properly.

The mustang chassis dyno isn't a real dyno, you can't load the engine as you can with a real dyno, it just has an inertial dampening device, aka 48" steel drums, while still acurate they can't be used to tune the engine. but WJM nice numbers, hp is all power to weight, and with good power and low weight you will do great. DJ72, why don't your hp and Torque cross at 5252?

extra octaine won't increase hp unless you advance the timing, going from 87 to 110 without doing anyting to the car will make you loose power, because the octaine rating is the level of its ability to reduce knock, the higher the octaine the harder it is to ignite, so running the least amount of octaine you can will net the best hp numbers.

thanks, i'm gonna replace an axle next weekend so i'll be able to check the stub axle bolt then.

again, why does your hp and torque not cross at 5252?

I could be wrong but the 85-87 could be EA-82 not EA-81

I went to check out my front axle, which has had a ripped boot for about a year now and i shook the axle to make sure that its sound, the axle seems fine but the stub axle wobbled on both sides. Has anyone had this problem and is it serious?

How did you bypass the over-boost cutoff, the best minds on this board have yet to figure that out, Why do you still claim that the oil cooler adds hp Why do you ignore the real questions, like why don't your hp and torque cross at 5252 and if this thing has the power at high RPM's why does it taper at 5000? these are the questions that need answering.

If the cams are specialty for the turbo motor they won't be massive, they will be somewhere around a mild torque grind. I'd also like to ask the obvious question, how much horse do you really think that you are getting from the oil cooler, cause as near as i can figure, thats an extra quart of oil and the extra lines so its extra weight. are you sure that the tazzo is calibrated correctly, cause if you have the vehicle weight in KG but in the tazzo its in pounds that would definatly skew the torque. with the stock EA-81 people snap axles all the time, albeit off road with bigger tires, but how many axles have you broken, cause if your not snapping them left and right your not putting down the horses

Just a little somthing else i noticed, how come your torque and hp are different at 5252, shouldn't they be the same and if this bad boy is making the power at 3000-7000 wheres the 5000-7000 graph? for those that don't build 8 engines a year, torque and HP are exactly the same at 5252 its a physical law dealing with the formulas to calculate hp.

I'm gonna jump in with both feet quick and just mention that "Massive Cams" do nothing for a turbo engine except pressureize the exhaust with unburnt AF mix, any engine builder worth his salt knows that on N/A engines massive cams help Horse power but raise the torque band as a byproduct, in a turbo the big cam hurts performance. I may not have built 8 engines last year but i am ASE certified and my vote goes with Dennis

They are only on EA-81 4wd cars, i've never seen them on a EA-82

CCR is cheaper than if you buy all the parts for a rebuild, or comparitave, and they come with a 3 year warranty!! I'm getting one from them as we speak, and they can work with you to costomize as well

It's beauty brings a tear to my eye:D

88 DL, offroader, daily driver 216,000 getting new engine by Feb 88 GL parts, 216.000 03 Forrester, dad's car, 4500

hydro heads, the ones that say do not adjust are bigger thats the NA version i don't know turbo but i believe that they are the same as the bigger 84+ heads

I'll take 2

Thanks for the seat brian, i'll see you guys at the McDonalds i'm stoaked

i'm here until the 10 of jan so if you need a pair of hands to help, i have nothing to do until then, give me a ring, 6820-072-602 please, i'm bored and have nothing to do.

the 32/36 is already over carbing the engine, but tuned right it is great for drivability economy and acceleration, most guys are running the 32/36 and we know what works and what has to be done there may be a better one but a lot of us are going with what works, i havn't heard anyone complain about a properly tuned weber 32/36.

I may be too late but if i'm not i could use a seat, i'll probably be there anyway even without a seat i need to get my fix before i go back to michigan

Being in poland you may have different ratios in your trannies, but look at the old car that you got the transmission out of the rear diff will be the same as the front, in america if its got a 1.59 low range its always a 3.9 and if its an automatic its a 3.7 that seems to be the cutoff, autos are 3.7 and manuals, unless turbo which are 3.7 like the autos, the manuals are all 3.9

If its not the wrist pin access plug its the coolant plug, not necessary to remove to rebuild the engine.