NoahDL88

It's not quite that simple, there are about 10 wires that need homes, but other than that its what he said, give me your EJ harness, and i'll trim it down and lable every thing that needs id'ing and send it back.

According to the 1991 FSM the ratio is 4.100 or 37/9 teeth. According to my calculator thats 4.11111111111111111111111!!!!11111

Not trying to under bid ShawnW, just offering my services to get the EJ22 wiring harness ready for EJ swaps. Friendly competition if you will, and it might be easier for the Seattle area folks to pick up and drop off instead of having to ship across country. Same price, don't want to start a bidding war, $200, and that will include return shipping, unless you live in NZ :-\

I belive mineral and petrol based oil are the same Also, with oil, you get what you pay for, every oil, if it has the "star" and the "donut" will meet the minimum requirements, but do you want to go see a doctor with C's or A's? I don't go crazy with the really nice oils, but i don't use the walmart junk either, i just go with a Castrol 10W-30 i think the GTX stuff. As has been said, stay away from the "high mileage" stuff, it swells your seals, and if you ever stop using it they will shrink back down and leak like a sieve.

That seems like a really thick oil to be running in a motor, i'd stay away from it. the 25W-60 that is.

Subaru's run rich anyway, so makeing it run even more rich will worsen the problem and make it run even more out of tune.

It was Mcbrat who had it, it was pretty sick looking, but iirc, it didn't run so well, the motor needs 250-300 cfm tops, so the 600 is way overkill.

wait for the first month to be over, so that you know you have a job, and that you can hack it, then by all means go to town, and be sure to bring it to WCSS9 Nothings worse than spending money you don't have, i'm guilty as charged.

The great Carnac says if you tell us the questions we can give you answers

Who cares how you did it, its fixed, and thats what matters

I used, impreza FWD axles, with Imp hubs brakes and knuckles, the struts were random EJ with EA hats, and the ball joints are EJ i believe with the XT-6 control arms. When i was lining up the bolt for the camber adjust bolt, it seemed like there was something holding it out, and i can't figure out what it is, the strut isn't hitting anything so i'm pretty sure its not that, when i did an axle on my legacy it went in just fine, i dunno, i'm gonna align it some time this year, and then go from there.

Ok guys, so he's a bit crazy, don't send him down the river just yet. I'm gonna go with the PCV system being the culpret, when you take a long right turn, the oil collects and then suddenly dumps into the intake, which results in a puff of black smoke and poor driveability till it burns off. It could also be that you have a bad motor mound and when the engine rocks to one side it bends the fuel line and kinks it off. Or, you could have really low fuel and it gets pushed away from the pickup. or, and this is just a wild left fielder, you're actually on to something with the crazy physics, who knows, it could be the next mystery spot

I don't recall if the hub seperates from the knuckle, but it should, and if Subaru sticks with its general sizeing pattern its probably 3 or 4 14mm bolts holding it on. you may not have to seperate the hub from the knuckle to get the stud out, but if you do thats how you do it. You'll also probably have to pull the axle, 32mm. try it in every orientation, there might be a cutout or something to ease removal without seperating everything else, Subaru is usually good like that. Anyway, to get it out, just bash on it. To get the new one in, just put the new stud in, and stack up a fair bit of washers, and torque on the the lug nut with an impact gun. What? no gun? I work at Marysville ford and could impact it on if you bring in just the hub and the new stud, Ask for Noah. If its just the stud and hub i can run it in free, if you bring the whole car i'd have to go through official channels which means money from you. You should be able to use a good half inch breaker bar but you'll have to keep the hub from spinning, so tape up the other studs real good to protect the threads and jam a pry bar in there to keep it from spinning, if you don't protect the threads you'll be replacing 2 more studs.

I already said that, but i guess he didn't want to listen Its great when things can be fixed like that, most of the time when you strip something it can't be fixed so easily.

if its not out of your way, just bring them to the closest dealership to your normal travels, and ask if you can give them the rotors, i don't see why they'd say no, and the junk guy that comes and picks them up for scrap can make a couple of bucks off them.

Any EA-81 series car should work, hatchbacks, wagons, sedans, and brats, from 80-84 for the wagons and sedans, and up to 89 for the hatchbacks and the brats. not 100% on all those working, but they all seem similar enough. There should be a pin on the bottom of the lock cylinder, and with the key turned to the on position, it will be able to release the cylinder which if you find one that works at the junk yard, you can just take yours out and put the new one in.

the middle ratio is 4.11, just thought you might like to know :-\

Dibs on the first EL swap

I think the 1.5 is a great idea. i'd rather have SOA bring the R1 and the R2 over, and get a good mini car over here. fuel economy will play a big part in the world stage over the next 50 years, at least until we realize that its not the oil we should be fighting for and instead the freshwater supplies.

And who made you teh interweb police?

Maybe its just a PCV valve? Or you might have dusted a cylinder. Lets go with the PCV and see what happens :cool:

I've used an 8mm deep, 6 point, its worked great for me in the past, that said, i got a specific E-10 bit off the matco truck, for the next time i do it.

There isn't much if any foam in the doors, iirc Anyway, with the roof, i was thinking rollover protection, i know, i know, you don't plan on rolling over, well neither did I. Easiest way to minimize weight is to remove as much non-essential stuff out of the car, i carry a standard assortment of offroad gear, but wagons are just a black hole for junk, and if i don't go through periodically it gets pretty bad. After that you're gonna get into creature comforts, that rear seat isn't that important but all that foam and carpet really quiets down the interior, which if you do long trips in the car can be a real pita if you remove. Also, be sure to clean the bottom of the car off after every run, i'm still taking dirt off the wagon from WCSS8 last week alone it was about 30 LBS.

Pics of block and head carnage please!!

Everthing is connected, it was just a bear to get the drivers side together.