Gravityman

Did the mech clear the engine codes after he reconnected the knock sensor wire? If not you will probably still see the sensor bad.

YEA!!! I didn't see all the mods exactly but they are claming about 430HP AT THE WHEELS!!!! Fricken Crazy!!! All this without any internal engine mods!

My buddy had a suzuki sidekick and his manual said every 7000 miles. If you use the old non synthetic oils you may have to change it at about 3000 miles if you drive it hard. If you driving your car hard then run full synthetic mobile 1, I swair by it!. I ran it in my old jeep and I would put 9000 miles between oil changes. That engine ran very good I wish i put it in my transmission before it craped out on me 3 times! The only thing you really need to do is change out your filter. Full synthetic oil does not break down like non synthetic do, Hence SYNTHETIC, they didnt make this crap just to sell more expensive oil. It was produced for Formula 1 racing before released to the public and now every one that races professionally uses it. Turboed engines use it for a reason, My 05 Legacy 2.5GT Demands it. The only way I would change synthetic oil any sooner is if it was ran through a turbocharger to prevent coking. ENJOY!

Ya I know i was thinking about that today. I went for a ride in my friends whip that has air bags and it would suck offroad!

Kick rump roast pic!!! What is normal operating psi run?

I would imagine it would be fine to leave the single side exhaust port alone but port the side that siameases the two exhausts together. This is in regards to the xt6.

COOL! I figure when I do my er27 swap into the brat I will go 3 inches body w/ 3 inches suspension. But ultimatly the air bag swap, as long as when they are fully deflated I can still get good the same traction and turning without alot of body roll that would kick rump roast!

So if i fabricate a control are to fix this problem then would it be good to at least three inchs? Is that the only thing preventing the suspension lift other then the axle angle?

"any good way to *cut* the intake gasket to make it larger? i'm cautious about doing this, i want the gasket to remain nice and clean when i bolt it on. " I imagine if there isn't a "sealant ridge" on the gasket you probably could. If there is a seal mabe an anabolic sealant or what ever the seal says you can use can use might work. I would imagine the best way to go is just grind the heads to match the gasket perfectly or as close as you can get. This will increase flow and lower any flow resistance. You can do this to your intake an exhaust also. As far as cutting the gasket Mabe call the company "Felpro" or whoever and ask them if it is safe to do and let me know. The intake should be fine to cut i would imagine.

The only problem is I have swapped to Struts!! Suck. BUT What about swapping a total air bag suspension lift? Front and back. Has anyone tried?? Totally adjustable. Lower for road use.. HIGHER for offroad use. Is it possible? just need to fabricate the bracketry to fit. Bad rump roast!

Hey Subaru Freaks A little help please Is it wise to grind down and polish the small fins/grooves in the oil and coolant holes in the head and the cyl block for better flow or should I just mabe polish them for better cooling properties and use them as a heat sink? I was thinking grind and polish the oil holes and just polish the coolant side. What do you think? Grind Smooth and polish or Polish only? ~~Todays trivia~~~ Polish~ to shine Polish~ relating to Poland Does this mean Polocks are pro polishers?? Or did they invent polish???

What would be the max you could lift the suspension on an XT6? The axles are 2 inches longer than a brats on either side, so it would give it a better articulating angle. Would a 3 inch lift be cool and could I go bigger w/o F~ing up the axles? Also what is the best way to add a suspension lift ie.. what do I need to do and or modify? Thank you for your help!

What is the differance between the EA82 and EA82T heads. I need to know so I can modify my XT6 heads for turbo application if the modification can be done. Does anyone have pics of both so I can see the differance side-by-side?

Yep thats when you add either one or two supplimental injectors. Extra injectors plus piggyback system I would guess would be a pretty strong system together.

Personally I still think the best way to go if someone could figure out how to mod this to fit an xt6 or RX (doesnt matter amount of cyl) this would be the best way to go hands down. HKS PFC F-CON ! It intercepts your stock Fuel injector signal between the ECU and injector uses boost and tach sensors to modify your injectors Pulse width and duration, everything. totally adjustable, customizable computer mapping and so forth. I know it sound like a MS mabe i am just being redundant DDDDDAAAAA:dead: MMMMMNNNNN it. F-in I calling Subaru's engineers tomorrow to kick their rump roast cause they are kicking ours! Guess who's winning??

It wasn't a tv commercial, I saw it on Sports Car Revolution on the Speed channel. Mainly the oil additive was the key by lowering the internal friction. Ya know this sounds like a retarded and outlandish claim but thats why I wanted someone with either a dyno or a gtech pro to check it out with true non-fudged numbers! You can purchase it from the site listed in the first listing. Let us know whats up. Now all we need is a guinea pig if nothing your out 12 bucks. I'd do it if i had the equipment. Good luck

how much for a MegaSquirt?

I thought so but they showed a dynopull and saw a 5% at the wheels???? Fluke? thats why I want some one with the ability to dyno test this product to try it out.

I saw a show on speed the other day, they were advertising a new additive called EXP4 they have a fuel and a oil additive. They were claiming about a 5% power increase and it showed on the dyno. I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if not if someone with access to a dyno or a Gtech pro could check this product out for us? http://www.exp4additives.com/ Thanks!

Why dont you add an additional injector or two. You could add it in your air tube before your throttle body. There are systems that use a signal from the Tach and boost pressure which control injector pulse and duration. I think this is the way I am going to control my fuel mapping issues. The computers are fully adjustable to fuel/RPM, Fuel/boost pressure and total duty cycle. I think this is the most adjustable way to go with the older subarus due to the lack of adjustability in the stock fuel system. Any thoughts? Heres a pic of the Microfueler. There are a few systems like this on the market now.

Well I tried it while I was driving but no light. I heard the vaccum but nothing happened. Does any one know what the vaccum part is called? and if they have access to one for cheap??? This is a big pain in my ankle! Thanks for your help! Does anyone know how to post pictures from your computer instead of having to use a URL?

Me to bob I'll let you know! Should the light come on or will the driving feeling just change? Thank you.

WELL... I am kinda having the same problem. first off is there a diff lock light that is supposed to come on? When I press the diff lock button I can hear a sound between the steering pump and the firewall right behind the pump. It sounds like a vaccum or solinoid is trying to engage but no light or any change in my ride. How many vaccum lines are connected to this part and what else can i look at to check why its not engaging? Any ideas??? My damn chiltons doesnt give me any illistrations for diff lock components.

As far as the fenders go, Front and/or back, and where would you want the louvers? how far of a fender flair do you want it to go? Do you want an entire fender or just a quick bolt on kinda like the one at www.subarubrat.com? If you can find some pics that explane a little more of what you want that would be best... a picture says a thousand words! Thanks guys!

Those are some pretty nice gains! keep it up! Average 0-60: 13.50 1/4 mile: 19.66 @ 76.6mph Average Improvement--> 0-60 by 2.26 seconds 1/4 mile by 1.13 seconds and Trap speed by 6.6 seconds