Len Dawg

Ha ha ha!ya have to have special fuji plug puller! Just kidding it takes hours to figure out but once ya do they are easy.. the somewhere else under the hood there is another one to figure out lol !those stupid plugs! My plug melted together to I tried doing the ace hardware blade/socket style and them dammed things a junky! So I ended up hardwiring with twist caps.. lol !

Just did head gaskets last October and my junkyard radiator is now lying to me... it started out 1/4 to a little above half on temp gauge in the winter but with the heat coming on it's on it way up knocking on the door of the hot box plus i ordered a OEM thermostat

I sure wouldn't put anything in my radiator except coolant, I am putting in a new one tomorrow... just for added protection..

ha ha ha I had the same trip.. except for me I zapped my alternator by crossing the batt cables... didn't think much of it ... i drove for 7 days then the lights started flickering... i checked every connection to the motor, chassis and srter..then it wouldnt even turn over,i took my Alt in and it failed even though my meter said it was charging 13-14 lol it was weird! Anymore I always disconnect my batt even if I'm replacing my wiper blades JUST FOR THE HELL OF IT! LOL!

Amazingly when I bought my 93 loyale 5spd wagon my gear box transmission stick was completely dry.. I kept adding gear oil until it started to show.. then filled up to the full line and never added any more and that has been like 7 yrs ago and some 100,000 miles,never dropped and for some reason it's still clear like the day I put it in.. I hope somebody here has an answer otherwise... ; (

Or if it is blinking 5 then 2 sec pause then 5 my code in my chiltons is saying it the EGR valve gas temp sensor is open or short circuit or in our case fully loaded with splooge from oil dripping and running back to the exhaust %California only%

Heres an example.. If it blinked 5 times watch to see if it blinked 3 times before that then 5 times, that would be code ->35<- that would be your purge valve.. one of the 2 little black blocks by the thermostat housing stopped working or the little brittle hose broke or is not connected.. let us know what ya find..

Too funny... somebody else had a problem with a distributor firing issue and I pointed out that the set screw sometimes fall out of the well yA know... rotor like what happened to me.. what's really going here? Ha ha ha! I suspected possible rotor change by the statement _>that the right side was dragging<_ so figured the rotor was probably going to changed and when the problem was on both sides.. I sipped my coffee and said to myself hmmm there's nothing but the caliper itself and I don't think the shield would cause that big of an issue maybe he changed his rotors because it's just the right thing to do.. From the mind of Dawg...

I would follow two 85s suggestions that's kick rump roast though!

Only thing I can think of is if the rotors were too small for the axles if you changed them too and or it could be that there is a hang up in the brake pads they need to be retracted more. As far as I remember the shield went between the caliper and the spindle housing..

Thanks Dave thats exactally what i experienced before ... it Barley moved from from less than 1/4 unless it was real warm like 90+ ambient temp.. even then it went to 3/4 ...I got a few things to check out...

Soo... after shakedown of driving 269,000 to now 274,000mi I had a slight pinging while on freeway at speed 3,100 rpm 70mph going uphill made adjustments to correct... was running a little warm as with in right next to red zone.. a little better now... I get heat when driving but not so much at idle, I would speculate that is kinda normal due to it being a small motor? Then the other oddity... looong ago before the cataclizmic meltdown,the temp gauge never really moved beyond 1/4.. now it is a little above 1/4 to 1/2 when driving across town but 1/2 to 3/4 when on freeway both flat and hill.. so is it possible that because I cleaned both Rad sensor and Temp sensor that I would get such a variation from the norm that I had been used to before cataclysmic meltdown? ..And just to note the secondary fan turns on around 3/4 temp.. all hoses are hot and tight... I have no idea what normal looks like and I couldn't find a Normal Operating Temp post or any post that has normal operating temp in it... anybody?

Possibly something stuck in water passages in the head if they were sent out to be worked on ? Or the incorrect style of head gaskets, that my geass.. let us know.. Nothing worse than a dead end thread...

I think ya have a wheel bearing issue going on personally just by the this statement...Also I have a rubbing/grinding noise from that wheel before and after...

As far as I am aware.. there is a vacum line from the canister to the engine intake that if left unplugged my ac will be the only thing working when I press any selection keys thanks to somebody I borrowed out my car to. And while figuring out the mess I noticed my ac cooling fan would always be turned on like it was hard wired somewhere.. other than that it would kick on without ac when it would be getting really hot 1993 subaru loyale ea 82 4wd other than that I would suppose thermal senor switch some thing something

Thanks for the replies.. I did all mentioned suggestions plus wire wheeled the bolts as well I sanded both intake and head real good and checked with flat edge and .002 blade.. good for now just weird same side same symptoms before.. I look for my other gaskets as I had ordered an extra set by miss communication between me computer and counter person LOL! then it's back to this pan again,, arrgh!

Just happy we figured our what spoob meant ;)Goodtimes Man Goodtimes!

Well after having put some miles on and finally more cool dropped in the resivor and stayed at the same full line for about 6 months it moved again in 3 days almost to the bottom. I am getting a bad feeling... i had this happen before the catakzmic catastrophe of a blown head gasket.. after i borrowed out my car to somebody... not telling me what was going on they added pure water and zero coolant making my problem much much worse.I chased all bolt holes and I used some rtv sealant as during assembly just because .... i gave it another twist and got a smige of a cReEk. Intake passenger side .. what ya suby nuts think about this episode?

In regards to ...If it sounds like a Metallic clank,click and its slightly delayed from engine rpm it may be time to increase octane to 92..and or check timing plugs wires cap rotor etc..at low rpms under 3 grand I would say your pinging..

Goodtimes!

Did you changes axles? Did you change hubs/rotorss? Are they the correct ones? We need a little more info... I'm guessing the the axle is spinning in side the rotor/hub...

Mine quit working yaaars ago on a dark stretch of highway.. Intermittently it will come on when I press climate control buttons as well those light also have a mine of there own. . Lol

http://www.superiorimportrepair.com/ talk to these guys.. they are helpful..they should get you with a oil pump.. bit first I would pull the valve cover and inspect camshaft see if it is loose.. then go to foster pick n pull somebody already pulled cam carriers off 93 loyale ea82 they are laying in the back seat

Yep.. LOL I had the same problem.. thats why i suggested it.. I went as far as changing my belts even though everything lined up.. I was suprised myself when mine fell out.. even though I did a tune up 6 months earlier that was the last thing I thought was wrong.. AAAHYEeeeeee!

That is called a purge valve silonide what it does I don't really know. i have had one of those break too.. but I never died... i had mine die on the freeway once it sounded like the timing belts slipped misfiring etc.. it turned out to be the screw fell out of the rotor.