Flowmastered87GL

Uhhh, it needs the drivers seat brackets fabbed, needs the engine installed (but first the weber installed and the engine cleaned up... need to figure out what clutch is going into it....) Its not going anywhere for at least a week

Ok I'll measure it, but I am guessing I have a "2WD" clutch. We shall see when I get down there and get it disected.

I now have the engine of my BRAT pulled to clean it up and replace the clutch as it was squealing with the tiny rally tires... now with the BIG tires... ya right... time for a new clutch. What I am wondering is: How much smaller is the 82 4WD clutch than an 83+ 4WD clutch. OR how much bigger is it than a 2WD clutch, or is it the same size? Basically I dont want to run an undersized clutch if I dont have to. We all remember what happened to GD's clutch because it was a FWD unit. Will a new 82 4WD clutch be good enough? or is it worth getting a bigger one? My brat came with an extra flywheel (which I gave away! May have to steal it back!) so that was probably the 83+ one I need. Or... since my brat has a new engine from a wagon, maybe it already HAS what I need... thats what I am trying to figure out. disk diameters would help here if anyone has specs (like a 9" in 2WD and 10 inch in 4WD or something.....) so that I know what I got when I yank it out.

Or have em wait til the pictures of the show Sunday night

Ive got TONS of scrap metal to play with... so one question... Is the INSIDE of the bed going to line up? Thats all that matters to me. I plan to be meticulous and shorten the chrome bed rails to match up considering the inside of the bed matches up, then use the scrap to transition in the seam... hopefully... failing that a BFH and bondo could be used Yes, the thread is officially hijacked

I wish you didnt have to be 100% original to register there... I replaced my block/heads because of excessive blow by (cause unknown) afew years ago, but everything else is still original (tranny, CV's maybe?, bushings definitely ) I'm shooting for 400K before I retire it. At 295K now.

Hmmmm how much time would you need for a complete tail bobbing Corky? A complete day? or longer? I'm gonna look at your brat this weekend Adam and see what kind of ideas I can get. If it looks too hard, it may be worth throwing afew bucks (and my BRAT) Corky's way and seeing what he can do.

Hmmm sounds like I get to use the hakki's for something other than rallycross Remember how I got stuck at WCSS3?? I'm gonna try to avoid that this time

In the time they were here we estabilished bobbing the brat AND keeping the tailgate is probably gonna be a MAJOR pain! Also, the tires are probably more like 30" :cool: (one size down from 31") The final comment was when am I gonna finish it... Its only been 13 months... its ALMOST done

I suggest an 87-89 GL-10 as their digidashes are WAY better than the 85-86 ones. The controls inside are better arranged too and the upolstry is nicer too. If you want to crawl... do a transfer case installation (search for transfer case mod) and installa 5 speed dual range tranny also (3:90 gears) You will need a fairly high lift to fit the transfer case though... like 8"

my settlement: Lady turned in front of me, I hit her at like 10 MPH tops, maybe less $1200 or so in damage said insurance company They paid me off for $750 (hey the car DID have 286K on it at the time!) I bought it back for like $45. The title is now branded, but I dont care... I fixed the car for $30 or so. (bumper + touchup paint + a swift kick to the fender fixed it)

Here is my lifted 82 brat (see below for link)... its running 28" tires and a PK Davis 3/3 lift (from www.ozified.com) the lift is top notch and I was able to install it with the help of 1 person pretty much. Some parts are ok alone, but stuff like the front struts... definitely nice to have a second set of hands. See the pic links on this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20114&highlight=lifted+brat 3rd post down = the 6 picture links.

Oh.. being that your car is carbed... the fuel filter is by the fuel pump down in front of the passenger rear tire. Its kind of hard to reach if you are big like me, but time and patience (and something to clamp off the fuel lines helps)

the 2 green plugs are for diagnostic purposes... if they were unplugged and the car was running good without them (no check engine light), probably should leave it unplugged. (you wont hurt anything, but its something along the lines of the green ones are for reading a code and the single white plug clears the code... or something like that....) If the car ran poorly and then ran great after... then leave it plugged in. But the car SHOULD run good either way

I have a pair of 1995-6 ish Legacy L front seats... very good shape, only one little blemish that I remember on one of the seats. They are so comfy I took the drivers seat OUT of my impreza and installed one of these for the drive to Reno afew months ago. They are blue/grey color I would be asking $50 or a close reasonable offer for the pair.

It was talked about on NASIOC... something along the lines of heading to panorama point (just off highway 35) and then into town (Hood River) for ice cream is what I was told. I had suggested forest service road 44, but that is longer a cruise than most people would want probably.

I'm sure having 3 cats didnt hurt

Regarding what was said above... did you start it up on gas that was afew years old? Or did you drain the tank and replace it with fresh fuel first?? Running gas through that was a couple years old probably wouldn't have helped any dirt/scum buildup in the carb.

I know its an old school car, but my 88 GL would do that because the throttle position sensor or airflow sensor or something was going out... I forget which.

Those legacy models with the black bumpers you see on occasion... were produced in 89... probably called 1990 models of course

for those asking... the Mt. Angel Oktoberfest is in Mt. Angel Oregon... a bit south of Portland

Hook a brotha up! I'll take a set of 4 of those clips if you can get em plus some $$ for your trouble. PM coming your way. Oh and Craig showed me what I was doing wrong with the rear calipers... I had to put a pad on em and used a C clamp to slide em back in. So one corner is done (other than bleeding)

Ok... working on the rear right now... ran both brake lines... installed pads on one side, all is well... but... cant get the caliper piston go go back in... wont rotate or anything! do I have to open the bleeder screw or something to get it to move?? Also... the clips that hold on the stupid pads... 2 of them are toast... so now the ONLY place to get them is off my parts trailing arms (destined for my GL) OR from SUbaru... so I need to yank the used clips off my parts, use em on the brat then get new genuine subaru brakes for my GL so I can get replacement clips... Ugh... its never gonna be done!

Well I am still trying to button up what needs to be completed on my BRAT. Afew questions: I have the rear end partly taken apart right now because I am installing longer brake lines to the rear disks (because of the lift, dont wanna stretch anything, so I am using the hardlines from the stock drums) Anyway... I got new pads for all 4 corners of the brat today at Autozone. Also got some brake cleaner. I need to bleed the brakes also because the lines were removed on all 4 corners. Now... the questions start. I know I SHOULD get all the rotors turned but do I HAVE to?? After I get the second brake line bolted on what do I do next? Install all 4 corners of pads and THEN bleed all the brakes? Or do I do the rear pads then bleed the rears (I do know you start bleeding at the farthest from the master cylinder) then tranfer the jackstands up and do the front? Should I do a anything with the calipers? I saw a tub of caliper grease at autozone, but didnt buy it.

Which brand did you go with?? I am going to try Herculiner in my GL and BRAT (rockers and floorboards) To those who have done floorboards... is it really worth chipping out all that tar sheeting stuff? Like, do you have to?