Flowmastered87GL

I have em backed up on my computer, I will try to get a photo account set up here... I forget how to get it going. He he... I could wait til my taillight comes in to post em

You gonna try to transfer the manual seatbelts to the new legacy??? You would then REALLY have a one of a kind car.

Honestly... it was your choice to go through the water without first getting out and checking how deep it was. So its pretty much your fault. The fast food place shouldnt be liable because of flooding. Flooding doesnt really show neglegence of their part or anything. Now if they left debris out in the drive through and you ran over it and cut a tire, then maybe they would have to pay. Just my $0.02

Somehow reminds me of what coulda happened at WCSS6 on the way to wal mart I agree that guard rails, dispite the damage they cause are good. I've gotten close but never hit one yet (knocking on desk)

Ok that what I needed. I'll slice the seam (to bend it over) then proceed to beat it til its flush. Or more recessed. hopefully I dont dent the area so bad that my nice interior bedlining work gets chipped up.

Ok here is the specs... 82 brat, lifted with a PK Davis 3/3 kit 15 X 7 "toyota" 6 lug wagon wheels with tires that measure 28" with a tape measure, but sound like they really fall near the 29/30" size... not sure how that works, but they are big anyway. The struts are not yet cranked up and the fenders are off (doing metal work) and the fender liners are out. The tires were rubbing on the body seam at the rear of the front wheel well. I want to know what all of you have done. Cut that little seam off? Bend it over and beat the snot out of that area as well to dent it back 1/4" or so? Should i just crank up the rear torsion bar and front struts? (I'm gonna trim/bang anyway but maybe the added clearance would help...) I'm hoping its going to be as simple as bend the body lip/seam over then bang the area afew times and repair the chipped undercoating. We shall see. Note... the tires are the biggest they are ever gonna be, the odds are when they wear out that 27"s will be going on here in a year or to. So if they just barely clear it will be cool because it wont probably be hardcore wheeled til it has some grippier (and smaller) tires anyway. I just need it not to rub during normal everyday driving (including the slight suspension flex of odd angle driveways)

I still am going with the idea of the wires melting hurting something... I know it sucks, but I say swap the good parts into a turbo wagon body. I know you are heading off to Wyoming, but who knows if I come across a good wagon body I may be able to stick the good parts into it for y'all. When I get some time that is and get my projects outta here.

Ummm you mean with a lift kit or has your stock one rusted away or what???

from the 360's in the back I am guessing its like a limited run 360 sports car / convertible or something... maybe its like a 700

Hmmm looks like a Honda Accord shifter knob/boot??? I had wanted to stick one of those in my GL but went with a leather forester knob and wheelskins boot instead.

I want that body kit! :cool:

Depends... If you drive in a dusty area I would suggest keeping the airbox stock. If you do mostly city driving by all means cut out the bottom or swap to a universal cone type air filter. As for removing the cat in the downpipe after the turbo... Technically it IS illegal so if it comes time to sell it I wouldnt go bragging that the pipe is hollow. Some people have ethical issues with removing the cat. Personally I dont, but some people see it as more pollution for very little performance gain. Its your choice though.

I was talking with GLCraigGT today in my garage about plumbing the vacuum lines on my BRAT when the engine goes back in. We got to talking about the single vacuum nipple on the base of weber carbs (DGEV and DFEV) and I said I had the base of my weber hooked up to the intake. Well... turns out I more or less had 2 vac sources sucking on each other. I was used to the old junky hitachi having tons of vac stuff that I kinda figured the weber needed vacuum for something... I didnt even think that it produced vacuum like the intake does. Well my old setup was intake running the climate control, intake running the weber, and intake running the disty advance. Now its replumbed as: Intake running the climate control, vac plug, weber running the disty advance and another vac plug. The idle before: 1100 RPM The idle now: ~ 750-800 RPM So the idle is finally normal now! It hasnt been normal for years! The car seems to have a bit more power now, maybe its psychological, I dunno. I await to see if my gas mileage changes (as I keep meticulous records of that)

The tan one made me want a hatch... now I REALLY want one

WHere did the pushbar go??

Maybe its a no brainer, but I would probably stick disconnect battery in front of all those directions

Another idea... try replacing one of the lights (the lamp unit)... maybe the low beam filiments are burned out :-\

Hmmm my brat will have the light come on from the moment you turn the key off until the alternator stops spinning (afew seconds) Seems like a circuit isnt shutting off when you turn the car off is my guess... the light is getting the signal to tell you the alt isnt spinning (or is dead) of course its not spinning, the car is off So I say check for any frayed wires, maybe something thats always on (like your horn or something) is giving that circuit a bad signal... thats my guess. And if you didnt notice it on the other thread, help yourself to my weber jetpack, just dont take all the jets!

If you dont know when your timing belts were last changed and you have the family with you... change em. Its very easy while changing them to hit up the front main and cam seals, reseal the oil pump, replace the water hose (little elbow) that comes off the top of the water pump, and either reseal or just replace the water pump. Oil pan and valve cover gaskets as well and you will be set for many more trouble free miles. and hopefully the oil pump reseal will get rid of the lifter tick. Not sure about the check engine light, my 88 did it and it turned out it was the EGR solenoid ($86!!) and then later the throttle position sensor or mass air flow sensor or something like that started to go out too. Timing belts are what would leave you stranded though.

Heh heh, sweet. Hey Russ, yes you CAN use some of my weber jets from the jetpack to fiddle with your carb. I will be coming down at some point before you guys leave to steal the carbs back to rebuild em later, but ya, use em while they are still down there

Its going off to a shop in SE portland on the way to work... should be $25-30 to take care of it they said. Hopefully I will have it back in a day or 2.

Autozone has kinda junky rebuilt alternators, I generally have em fail after a year or so... or in the first 50 miles... depends... but I get lifetime replacements (not bad for $69.99) The first one I got from them the shaft was all sloppy and the pully vibrated, got a new one, lasted a year, went bad, got another one, lasted a year, just had that one go bad again, the replacement had a bad shaft so I had to drive across town to another autozone that had a good one... all should be good for another year I like em though, better than Checker/Schucks/Kragen in my mind. Napa is too expensive usually. so I either get stuff at autozone or from subaru directly.

I have a 200mm (the tiny 2WD one and 82 brat type) Ea81 flywheel, dunno if that helps or not as I dont know what EA71's used... but if its the right part, its free.

Ooooo pretty Needs some 27" mud tires now and a PK Davis lift

Well the long one had been rusted to the manifold, drilling it out fixed it... this short one on the drivers side... rusted at the threads, craig drilled it out with a reverse bit, no luck... 1 easy out, no luck... maybe more luck tomorrow, we shot it with MORE PB blaster... oh... and we even tried welding a nut on top... the nut broke off...