hklaine

Great! Thanks. I started looking through search results but there were just SO many that were not NEARLY as useful as this! Exactly what I was looking for. Found that most of my grounds were in pretty poor shape, one was especially bad. Cleaned them up and problem(s) solved. Car runs/accelerates smoother too. -Heikki

Greetings All. I've been having some strange electrical issues with my car lately (slow to fire, gauges bug out from time to time, etc ...) and I would like to start by checking & cleaning the ground points in the engine compartment. I am assuming I can track down where the battery grounds to, but anyone know of other ground points I should look for? Help would be appreciated. Thanks. -Heikki

I believe the timing belt interval on that engine is 60k (?). Can anyone confirm/deny this? -Heikki

@EnsenCorp: I think this would be more appropriate for the MarketPlace.

Someone posted this. Perhaps helpful - ? http://www.rweddysolutions.com/Subaru96fix -Heikki

Try not to cut these bolts if you don't have to. If I remember correctly the bolts that go around the donut gasket are the spring-loaded ones and can be expensive to replace (at least the spring part - so save what you can). As stated, these gaskets can be a PITA to remove, but certainly can be replaced. -Heikki

HERE -Heikki

A snowmobile? I would imagine the trailer is quite light, in which case go for it! I don't get out of hand with mine, but I have a 400# trailer that I put a few hundred pounds in from time to time. The brakes get angry before the 2.2 does. -Heikki

You may also want to replace the Crank Position Sensor if the Cam Position Sensor was bad. They are mechanically near identical and critical for engine timing. -Heikki

$150 = WRX HeadUnit from ebay = 6 CDs in Dash + Tape Not cheap in an absolute sense, but relative to the features it provides. :-\ -Heikki

At first I was a bit worried, but after about 18 months and two winters my high-wattage bulbs are still burning bright. The connector is aftermarket. I purchased it, along with bulbs and relays, from http://www.danielsternlighting.com/. Excellent vendor with top-notch products. I took the photo before taping up the stock wiring. You can see it there below the headlight for comparison. Yes, I stepped up the wire gauge just a bit. -Heikki

And if you have (or install) higher wattage headlights you may want to go with some heavy-duty connectors. The factory Subaru ones are fair at best ;-) -Heikki

I am guessing that something like a #12 sheetmetal screw would be suitable if you are putting the screws into plastic inserts- ? Definitely spend the extra cents and buy the stainless ones so you don't stain your plate or car. -Heikki

In my GL I had this problem once. Fluid was just slightly low, at the threshold of the switch. This caused the light to flicker on dirt roads and under heavy braking. Sounds similar? -Heikki

The materials I mentioned can harm your tires, but exist in many rubber/vinyl products. Just a friendly heads-up. BTW: They don't exist in 303 :cool: -Heikki

Does it include any petrochemicals and/or silicone oils? Didn't see any mention on the site. -Heikki

I personally use 303. I don't use it on tires, but on the dash and other exterior trim. I would imagine it is also good for tires - ? http://www.303products.com/ -Heikki

Is Subaru's HQ in the Mt. Holly, NJ area? I noticed that the car in the pics has DTM plates (mfr. not dealer). Just curious. -Heikki

I don't think that the strength of the signal is your problem. As far as I know the speed is calculated from the frequency of the wave, not the amplitude at peak (which should be constant). Maybe the "motor" doesn't spin freely at low RPMs (flat spot or worn)? Is the gauge accurate at higher speeds? Just my thoughts on the topic. -Heikki

I went with ultra-grey and no gasket. No leaks! Just my experience. -Heikki

I am no expert with tint, but have done a few old cars (Loyale, GL, ...). I let the pros do my '96 Legacy Wagon. It was a greenhouse in there! $200 w/ LifeTime Warranty and it's perfect. Not to mention it has a one-piece back window. For $200 it wasn't worth the aggravation and supplies needed for a job that I don't think would have been as good. If you can afford to have it done it's worth every penny. No bubbles, it doesn't turn purple (cheap material), and the good stuff often blocks some UV too! Just my $0.02. -Heikki (Click on the link below for a pic of my car. You can't see the quality of the tint, but a tinted car if that interests you.)

I've always liked the idea of putting the car in gear (never had an AT) and turning the bolt with a breaker bar. Cranking the engine seems common, and a lot of people seem to do it without incident but I would only use this method as a last resort. Impact gun? I don't know if this is such a good idea on the crank - ? You can also use something to lock the flywheel. Subaru makes a special tool for this, but perhaps something can be fabricated to safely hold the flywheel in a similar fashion. When I replace the bolt I always line the inside of the pulley (the surface that mates to the crank and keyway) with anti-sieze and put some loc-tite blue on the bolt. This helps keep the bolt in and makes for easy removal of the pulley next time. -Heikki

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=282768&postcount=4

I think (I have heard) you can clear it by disconnecting the battery overnight (?), but am not certain on that. I do it with my OBDII tool AutoZone stores will read codes for free, so if you have one close ask them to read/clear it for you. -Heikki

There are quite a few threads on this, one being here. A friend of mine replaced his recently and the code cleared on its own, but it can't hurt to clear it. Good to see you in the NewGen Forum. I moved over about 18 months ago. -Heikki