JuhaKankkunen

Sorry but what that p.i.t.a.factor means??

Don't worry about doing heads in USA, you have all the parts available everywhere!!!! It's a big problem in Argentina but not there!

As Gloyale said, doing head gasket in an EA81 is a simple work. So if you tried all we talked, and the problem still there......for sure you are almost starting with a head cylinder problem. The last thing you can try if you didn't so is to change the radiator cap.

Well......if the fans runs OK, and thermostat is OK, radiator is OK, Hoses are Ok......water Pump Ok......let me know if you check the coolant level. It is always at the same level? There are two bypass pipes in EA81, one over #2/4 head cylinder and the other in the back of the intake manifold. Have you check leaking there? Because when it leaks coolant from that pipes, it's goes directly to the hot engine, evaporates and it's difficult to see that, but you can smell it. Have you check that?

The sedan needs a complete rebuild. I ll start with him next week. Another pic of Wagon EA81

Starting a rebuild, i must re ring and rebuild valves.

Hi!!! You can also check if fans are running in the correct direction. I saw a car in which someone changed the radiator, trying to do so, cut the cables fan and the assembled incorrect way. Check that.

Thanks!!!! Do you know the difference between The two kits that appears in the page when you search as EA81? One it's described as H4 109-1.8L 80-81 and the other is EA81 1.8L 1800 Brat 8V OHV 80-89...... In Argentina as we have JDM cars we only have one EA81 engine at all.....so I'm a little lost with this description, can you help me?

Hi! I need to buy a master rebuild kit for my EA81 engine. I need pistons, rings, complete gasket set..... Can anybody help me with brands or a link where and which to buy. I need to pay with PayPal and deliver it to Miami. thanks a lot!!

Well....I'll try.... In my parts catalog it's appears as "Slow air bleed" #494297451. It was #160 and I put a #140 instead. It was in the top of the carb were the float is located. Sorry about my English I'm trying to be the more clear I can. Yesterday I changed the sparks and wires, and now the engine it's really smooth. I have new cap, rotor, condenser and pcv valve.

Me and my Sedan 4WD!

Another Pic of my Wagon. GL 1800 4WD 1981 My Sedan 1800 4WD 1981 and my brother's Outback H6 2007

Thanks guys!!!!!!

Thanks for the writeup! And thanks Mikaleda too! i have a new PCV valve, i will change it tomorrow. Can you tell me what the valve do? Thanks!

I'm sorry if there is a post about this, I'm new here.... Which oil does you use for EA81? Does anyone try Castrol RX Viscus 25w60 on EA81? My engine is almost 200000 km and smoking some oil. Thanks

this is a picture of what i did two month ago! Similar proces.

I had the same problem in my wagon. I did a complete rebuild....but the problem still there. Since a read this post I will try changing the coil. Today I did a carb swap between the sedan and the wagon and both cars get better performance. I changers ten slow air bleed in the cap of one of the carbs, it was #160 and now I put a #140. Its seems to be much better!

In Argentina The fuel has 95 Octane. My EA81 sedan it set 5 BTDC ADN my wagon was 14 BTDC Today I did a Carb swap between both cars because I did a carb rebuild on wagon. Now both cars are 6BTDC and everything seems to be ok.

Thats correct, you must remove the entire dash.

As someone says, the correct way to do it is 22-43-47 final. The sequence starts with the center nut behind the valve rocker. There is a sequence of tightening. After firsts 1000 miles you have to retigthen all nuts to 47. Note that 6 mm bolts only needs 8. It is recommendable to put oil to all threads. This are specification using Subaru OEM head gasket.

Me too!

Mmmm i don't think swap an easy work, but I do not have experience with that. Rebuilding doesn't seems to be a difficult work in USA since you can find all you need there. Swapping another engine is to put a used one so at least you know the previous owner......you won't know what it is inside the new one. Let's wait for others opinions!

I'll tell you some things. There is no other way that the coolant can go there by a bad head cylinder gasket or a cracked head cylinder. You do not had symptom like white smoke because maybe, you do not have problems with oil in the combustion moment(sorry about my english I'm trying to do my best) but you have water(coolant)there....and that it's a problem. For good, you didn't start the engine with the coolant there, if you.....you could bend the connecting rod. It seems that your cylinder, in this case number four, get flooded bye the coolant since you have the engine not running for some many days......now, you have corrosion on rings in that cylinder. So, you must do a rebuild now. It's better if you have someone that can see the car. I will try to help you but it's difficult for me in English. I can help you with the rebuild, I do not think you can do it in a weekend if you never did it before. There is some details that you must take care that maybe it's better to do with someone that had the experience before, like resurfacing the heads and dismounting the crankcase assembly. You must took off the studs bolts from the crankcase and resurface both crankcase too, and that a detailed work. Hope to have more opinions in this topic. I repeat, if you want to do it by yourself, I will help you with all i can.

Oh....y replied the post before you attach the last photos..... Confirmed......you have or a Head Cylinder problem or a Head Cylender gasket problem....whatever you must take off the engine and think of rebuilding it...... What you need, I'm here to help you if I can.

That thing like a "cream" in your radiator it's not common, and it's a symptom of head gasket problems........ Did you check if you have more pressure that normal in hoses and radiator cap?