Mike W

Has anyone bought a Weber from Bow Wow lately? I'm wondering if Bow Wow is still offering awesome deals for Hatch Patrollers, price, and who to talk to for the sweet deal???

I have some 510 u-joint style axles. In their stock form they don't flex nearly as well as Subaru CV axles. 510 axles might be interchangeable with Nissan divorced transfer case drivelines if anyone needed a short one. Newer Nissan rear ends (like 300zx etc) have more to offer in terms of strength and a bigger diff that you can put a spool in, but they're heavy and probably don't articlulate better that Sube stuff. What about Quatro diffs, 930 CVs, and Porsche hubs and brakes?

'93 Legacy LSi. Outback wagon struts, origional "L" springs. Gained about an inch and a half, same size tires. No cv issues yet. Installed smoothly. Drives normal on the highway. One question likely to keep coming up on here: What's the least amount of lift needed to run stock Outback wheels and tires on regular Legacies and Imprezas?

Hey I bet I saw you and the Hatch the other day at the intersection by Greggs bike shop. Is it burgundy/dark red? Looked like Qman's old rig.

Whatever the car is, it doesn't have to be modified to take it off road. Before I got my first Subaru, I was torture testing a '79 Honda Civic on abandoned logging roads over logs and stuff. Then I got an '83 GL wagon and found that it climbed like a goat and pretty soon I wondered what if I put some bigger gnarlier tires and lifted the body a bit? So I guess I'm just advising to take it out and be amazed at how well a stock Suby can do...then start modding it to suit your requirements.

Don't open it up for me Ed, I just thought I'd ask and you might know all to well what it took to get it to pass. And yeah I know there's lots written about Weber jetting on the Weber threads...I'm just too lazy to read all that. I still have the 38/38 on my car now but never even tried testing it. My trick has been to only license it on off years. Kinda funny way around passing the smog test.

Looks like a nice spot for some fishing. Any trout in that river?

Hi Ed, congrats on passing. Hey do you know offhand what the winning combination of jets was this time? My Hatch is due for testing again and this time I'm thinking of putting a 32/36 on it. So after all the effort you've put into getting your Brat's through emmissions, what jets would you recommend for a basically stock weberized EA81? And yes, I'll definitely visit your friend Warren, he's a cool dude.

I was in a hurry so I slotted the bolt holes on mine. (And I was in a bad mood and the grinder was laying too close.) This method works but depending on the shock used, there might not be much steel left after slotting the holes so do it at your own risk. With some amount of persuation and cursing, you can press out the Subaru style top mounting bars from your old shocks and install them in the new Chevy style shocks. Obviously lots of slimmy stuff helps the bar go through the rubber bushing but be carefully not to use slimmy stuff that will eat the rubber in time. An arbor press helps but BFH and blocks works. So which ever method you chose have fun and good luck.

Hey thanks for bringing up that old thread. I was wanting to see those trailers and Subes again. Seems like there's a lot of twisted creative engineering that comes out of Alaska and Australia...I like it! Nice work.!

Those air filter adapters used to be made by JAM Engineering. Wonder if they still sell them? I have the single filter model on my car, paid under $60 for it. My filter is tucked up in the spare tire space inside a plastic juice bottle to keep it dry when swamping. For that double filter plenum, how about one of those big cylinder shaped truck filters with openings on both ends? 90' pipe fitting coming out each end of the filter and hoses to the plenum?

I did a little search and came up with some pics of that rear extension housing. Here's an index to a bunch of trany disassembly pics and this shot here shows the clutch pack stuff. The clutchpack is the darker colored spliny thing on the left. What I was talking about is carefully welding the clutchpack or possibly replacing the clutchpack with a machined (and heat treated?) part that would basically act like a spool. Seems do-able but I wonder because if it was that easy, wouldn't Mudrat have welded his when they did the Rubicon? Instead he kept the clutchpack and locked it up via the solinoid. If you take that rear housing off, be warned that there's a pin and spring etc that want to pop out and putting it back can be a little tricky the first time.

If the 2002 has a rear extension housing like the mid-90's 4EAT, then it seems to me that you should be able to remove the rear housing and either weld the plates together or machine something solid to replace the clutchpack. I've only removed and replaced extension housings but the guts in there really aren't all that complex so it seems feasible to me. There are detailed pics around here somewhere of that extension housing, probably in threads pertaining to "torque bind." Once you get the exhaust etc out of the way the tail housing come off pretty easy if you want to check it out for yourself. The paper gasket will probably tear but they're only a couple bucks from Subaru. Grant, do you still have pics of your other Subaru projects? I remember seeing your trailers etc a couple years ago and gotta say you're sick and I'm looking forward to whatever you do to this car.

Googling "Wild Spirit RVT" produced links to other companies also selling that tire. The tire looks less gnarly in this pic here.

Doubtful but who knows. My girlfriend is still fighting to stay on the planet, so I'm all about helping her any way I can.

Nah, I don't think there'll ever be a twin of the Snafubaru. All that custom bodywork by BF Stump and Associates would be hard to replicate! I did have it out for some abuse a few weeks ago (very fun.) Impressed some kids with big rigs. Had to drive it through the woods get around them and then pulled one out and didn't even fry my clutch. If you mount a Imp scoop, I'd say face it backwards so it does some good, letting heat out. Facing normal direction, I really don't think it sucks much cool air in. If I get around to it, I'll be turning my scoop around or doing a cowl hood like Qman's or maybe I'll just jack up the rear of the hood. Well back to wheel painting topic... Happy paint fume huffin Brian, taker' easy and hope the paint sticks.

Nice bumper, looks good Brian. I kinda like the debadged grill. Hey did anyone ever notice that if you removed the horizontal slats on the grill, you'd be left with an eight-slot-grill? Man that'd be a whole slot better than those seven-slot-grills!

Hey Brian, red spray paint... I found the paint I used on my red hatchback that happened to match the factory color perfectly. It was Duplicolor "candyapple red T-208" found at Schucks etc. For under the hood I used plain old Rustoleum "red." That stuff was also a good match but was cheaper and had a nice finish without sanding. Hope yer wheels come out good. ps: I had a set of those wheels w/ Khumos. Cool wheels. Wish I kept 'em.

Hey Brian, when I painted the nose on my Hatch, I found that Duplicolor "candyapple red" was a perfect match. I'll try to dig up a leftover rattlecan to get the actual color code. Man I don't know about the red ring around the wheels. From a distance it looks like beadlocks and I'm not crazy about imitation bead locks. But nevermind...just my opinion.

Instead of the bleed valve, how about a pressure tank with it's own radiator cap. If the tank is mounted slightly higher than the radiator it should be a snap to fill and bleed plus it'd increase coolant capacity. If the rads in the tailgate, perhaps a pressure tank could go in one side of the bed?

Back when I built my rear bumper I didn't have much resources and no welder. I got some free u-channel from work, cut it with a borrowed sawzall and bolted it onto the unibody via some scrap square tube inserted into the old bumper mounts. I also bolted on some braces running rom the bumper down to where the diff hanger mounts. The idea was to spread out the forces to as much unibody as possible so I didn't rip the bumper off when trying to get unstuck. I'd do it up fancier now but it's held up to some hard pulling no problem.

Well it's been a few years since I scavenged relays. I think it was volvos I robbed them from, but it could have been Saab or Benz too. In any case the relays were in the fuse box area under the hood and they were the same style you'd get from the local auto part store, just better quality.

I've seen residential light switches used successfully in cars...just looks a little different.

Relays: I've had good luck with Bosch and Hella brands. I scavenge them off Volvo and other Euro cars at the bone yard. Wire: I've been having good luck using a heavy duty extension cord that I cut one end off with a skil saw. Think it started out as a 100' 12 guage cord. I've now wired lights and stuff on at least three cars and there's still plenty of cord left. Sounds funky I know, but hey it has tough solvent resistant insulation and you can run three switch to relay circuits through one chunk of wire so there's less mess under the dash.

Oh. Well never mind then. I was misundering. I didn't get to read that first link Jared posted 'cuz I wasn't a registered user. What set me off ranting is that I've been hearing stories at work about two wheelers getting ticketed for simply crossing forest roads on a non-street-legal bikes so I jumped to conclusions. I can't say I'm too shocked that they'd watch the roads leading to Evans, when there's a fair number mutant machines heading up there and it's only natural for guys to push the limits of what you can get away with driving on roads.