Mike W

I have a pair of 50 watt mini driving lights mounted just above my rear bumper. They're wired via a relay to the backup lights. Work fine and are so out of the way I forgot I had them. Installed them after a scary episode trying to back down a "road" on the edge of a cliff in a snowstorm. If I get around to it, I'd like to install a switch in the cargo area so I can turn on the lights for camping etc.

Two more pics: http://www.f4x4.is/new/files/photo/?file=files/photoalbums/921/5673.jpg http://kjolur.f4x4.is/photoalbum/images/720-2761-17945.jpg

Yeah the torque bind might be a good thing if you can keep the car on snow and ice forever. I've been driving in AWD for a month or so and it's not bad but kinda sucks trying to take wide corners. The bind gets worse as the clutchpack chews itself up and gauls the shaft and munchs the output bearing, etc. There's gotta be frags and stuff getting in the ATF...probably not good for the tranny. The torque bind is definitely better than 2wd. First time I had it in 2wd I got stuck at a stop sign at the top of a hill. There was a wet metal plate on the ground and zero traction. I actually had to back it down the hill take the fuse out. That's how to humiliate a Subaru.

This weekend I'm planning to try a low-budget fix on my '93 Leg. The plan is to swap out the rear extension housing and with one from a trans that died of other causes. If I'm able to pull this off I'll only be out $4.63 for the paper gasket and ATF to refill. Wish me luck. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll be in the market for a 98 or newer trans which is supposed to be less prone to torque bind and hopefully will work in my '93 car.

Can anyone confirm or deny that a '98 or newer 4EAT will work in a '93 Legacy? If it's just the wire harness that's different, is it just a matter of switching the pin configuration? If so how? Any other differences I would want to know about...drive shaft length, etc? I've heard that Subaru fixed the torque bind issues with these newer trans. Is that actaully the case or just rumor? Thanks -Mike W

Somewhere on that Icelandic offroad website there are pics of a SubaZuki, ZukaRu or whatever you'd call an EA81 powered Suzuki. Wasn't much to look at....more like a farm vehicle than a trail rig. I also pondered various versions of IFS and IRS connected by multilinks, long coilovers, leafs, etc. But then I couldn't see any real advantage over plain solid axles, Unimog, tractor axles, or whatever. But hey maybe someone can dream up something that works and make it happen. I'm surprised no one is selling a long travel IFS kit for Soob trail rigs. Sooner or later I bet that'll happen.

I did this this on my '93 Legacy and agree it's quick and easy. One extra thing I did was reshape the skid plate a bit with my BFH. I wanted to make sure there was a 1/2" or so of clearance between the oil pan and the plate. These factory skid plates are better than nothing at all, but it doesn't take too hard of a hit to mash them.

This thread here tells me most of what I needed to know. I'm going to try installing and removing the 2wd fuse again to see if the binding changes at all or remains the same.

Hmm, yeah test the other one. That sounds like a plan. Looking at the pictures and diagrams it doesn't look that bad taking off the trans extension housing to get at the solinoid. I'm just wondering if it's that simple. If it'll go back together easily, seals to replace, and that sort of stuff. Think I'll try to devote more time to reading the past discussions before I attempt the surgery.

I've looked into that option but it seems like too much trouble. But I might feel differently if I don't start having better luck with Automatics. If I put the 2wd fuse in, it still binds although maybe not quite as badly. It's definitely in two wheel drive mode with the fuse in. I actaully couldn't get up a steep slippery hill yesterday due to wheel spin. Zero power to the back end in 2wd mode. I've searched and read some of the past threads on torque bind. There's some great info there including pictures of the clutch pack and duty solinoid C. Guess I'll have to search again and see what else I can dig up. I'm kind of short on time so I was hoping someone might chime in with what works or help me narrow my options. Tomorrow I'm hoping to visit Smart Service and see what the Master Tech gurus can tell me. I'm sure they've delt with plenty of torque bind over the years.

I was going to suggest a combination of bamboo, aluminum, carbon fiber, and epoxy. Kind of an oldschool/newschool composite theme. But that ABS looks mighty stylin and functional. Compliments the snorkus very nicely too. Austin gets full points for originality and creativity!

Ok, so the original 4EAT in my '93 Legacy LSi wagon crapped out a few months back and I replaced it with a junkyard trans out of a '97 (and swapped rear diffs of course.) Now after driving 4-5 thousand happy miles, this '97 tranny has the dreaded torque bind. I've changed the ATF three times, driven in circles, driven in 2 wheel drive mode...and it still binds up in both AWD and 2wd. Tires might be the original cause, they match but front and rear are slightly different diameters. I can buy new tires but before I do that I'd like to solve the torque bind problem. Pulling the TCU codes gives two flashes followed by four flashes. That means "24" which is Duty Solinoid C. Correct? Now as for getting rid of the torque bind. Should I swap out the whole rear of the transaxle? I still have my old '93 4EAT trans sitting here and it didn't torque bind. Can I swap the rear end of that trans onto the '97 trans in the car? They look identicle on the outside. Will it be compatible? How about the ratios...does it matter? The old tranny was a 3:7 and the newer one is a 4:11. Or should I just replace duty solinoid C. Can I steal the one from my old dead trans or should I purchase brand new? And what about the clutch pack? Should I assume it's fried? Or is it time to try my luck with another used AT? Swapping wasn't all that painful but I'd rather not if I don't have to.

That looks like a clutch pack LSD and that's what I would expect if it came out of a RX. I think most of us here in the States use Kendall special LSD lube. Don't know if they sell that stuff in Australia and I'm not sure what the viscosity is. I think it's also ok to use regular gear oil and add a tube of LSD special addative, although I've never tried it. As for servicing the diff, I've never messed with the guts, just swapped the ratio like you're doing. Somewhere online, I think on a Datsun 510 website, there is a copy of the factory service instructions for rebuilding the clutchpack LSD. Maybe someone can supply the link since I can't find it. I heard somewhere that the clutch plates can be flipped over or something to get worn plates to hook up more solidly. Hope that helps a little.

I was working on a EA81 last night and found out why the front end rattled like a stage coach. The little metal clips that steady the pads were gone and the pads were so worn they were about to fall out. Also found the bolt that clampst the hub onto the strut and was super loose as was the ball joint bolt. Seems whomever worked on it had swapped the bolts around and didn't notice that they didn't cinch down.

Silly idea of the day. Two wheeled, SuperSwampered, Subaru powered, Segway style, offroad scooter.

$100 and three blocks from your house? That's almost free and delivered!!! I'd say you're in the running for the score of the year contest.

Hey there Geoffrey, good to see you back. I have a set of similar H4 aftermarket lamp housings in my Hatchback and like them ok. Got 'em from good 'ol JCWhitney on sale for about $24 for the set. The brand is EagleEye or something like that. No problem running 80/100 bulbs with semi-custom wiring. If aimed properly they don't seem to blind oncoming traffic. I parked next to a Jeep that had the Pilot brand H4 lamps and the Pilots seemed to project a nicer beam than mine. Might be worth spending more money for better quality lamps. Too bad you don't need round lamps like Gen1's use. Last night there was a set of brand new looking Cibie H4 round lamps at Saint Vincent DePaul thrift store at 130th and Aurora. $3.99 each.

For the purpose of this project, what is the definition of a "Subaru?" And what is the intended purpose of this offroad "Subaru?" Is it to be a rock crawling buggy? Desert racer? Multipurpose trail rig / daily driver? Heavy expedition vehicle or light weight?

That must be the Mt Margaret road then. Hyak exit, under the freeway, then parallel for a mile or so and start climbing. I bet some of those switchbacks were hairy.

Hey that's great you got your Mom out for a nature fix. So what road is that? Or post more pics and let us guess. Bet you were the last wheeled vehicle to go there until spring.

CAPS UNLOCK! Any pics of how your finished driveshaft hump sheetmetal work turned out? On Nissan trucks the R180 diffs are mounted with a mini-mustache bar with rubber bushings. So has anyone incorporated that bar into their mounts? I'm thinking that the bushings might give the diff a little wiggle room and possibly reduce axle braekage in some situations.

Not shopping carts, it's the cart racks in the parking lot you make bumpers and stuff out of.

KYBs spec'd for '97 Outback. Tirerack, 3 months ago, $327.72 shipped. (that's $82. each for the front, $69 for the rear.) Part#s 235633 for LF 235632 for RF 335021 for LR 335020 for RR I'm still running stock tires but might go bigger if I find some.

Ok ya' got me on that one. Shows just how long it's been since I've seen Ken and the Brat. I was thinking the rear was spooled and the ARB was in his front mounted R180, which would make pretty good sense for a trail rig. But now that you mention it, ARB doesn't make an air locker for the R180...which is what led me to the R200s. Back when I thought I was going to build another trail rig, I was fixin' to put R200's with ARBs in the front and rear. Locked up R200s seem to hold up reasonably well with 33" tires on Pathfinders. So I figured they'd probably hold up to some abuse in the vehicle I was gonna build. I read a while back that SubaruBrat is building these diffs and lockers into his rig. Glad somebody can afford to do it because that's most of what stopped me. Looking forward to seeing how it works out and how it holds up to the kind of power his H6 is putting to those big meats. Calmini sells a clutch pack LSD for the R200. It is supposed to be a brand new unit direct from Nissan/FHI and seems to me it was less than that 1000 price.

I have one of those harnesses that I purchased used from a guy on here. It's nicely made and I agree with Ed that it's worth it to just buy it rather than make your own. Here's the link to Competition Limited http://www.hioutputbulbs.com/compt.htm Looks like they're having a 2 for 1 sale on those 55/100 bulbs and I need some. For a mear $450 you can get a HID conversion kit. That'd be kinda nice. Or you could build your own from parts on ebay. Or you could use HID lamp assemblies from BMWs, Lexus, etc and graft them on.?