Henpecked

With respect I'd like to hi-jack this a bit I have a Brumby/Brat with a LSD from a "L" series, does this mean that when in 4WD either rear wheels can "drive" even if the other is without traction ? That is to be "stuck" with no power to the grounded wheel, l'd need to have lost traction at either of the front wheels AND BOTH of the rear wheels?Thanks

this thread http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25947

Thanks for that explanation , really appreciated.

I also figured out all the shift linkage stuff finally, I wanted to keep the stock levers and I was able to do so. I had to shorten up a few of the linkage pieces buts its all installed and shifting through all the gears now! It just barely hits the stereo but should clear when I put a factory stereo back in or I can bend the shifter just a tad more later on... , I'm extreemly interested in this. Firstly is this with a Hi/Lo 5 speed from behind an EA82, and were you able to maintain the Brat Hi/lo shoifter handle ?, or is it the EJ 5 speed g'box ? in either case I'd like to see a diagram or pictures of how you did this, as i'm wanting to keep the original Hi/Lo handle/selector . Thanks

Hi Leeroy - i'm genuinely curious about this , i have 6 + sets of OE Pug wheel nuts ( thats actually over 100 in total- and all are that strange captive but spinning seat washer on them) , and ALL 20 or so that I randomly selected, presented a full length contact on their seat angles when a straight metal edge is placed against them. I'll post up a photo at some time. have you tested any of your own nuts in this way ?

Yes, I ran a thread on this topic of the lug nuts for some time. Supposedly the lug nuts had a spherical (curved) seat in order to match up to the speherical seat in the hell rims. yet I have placed straight edges against the seats of a large random selection of the original pug lug nuts that I have sourced, and they all had straight faces. So i then used the old valve "blue" to see how those nuts seated in the rims sockets, and it came out not as a tight circle but as a full face-to-face wide and deep match. So i have ended up very confused. it may well be that "normal" "V" faced lug nuts will suffice just as well. It would be good to discover if the new lug nuts that a specially made by a bloke on this forum have spherical"U" or flat "V" faces. Aldo , those rims are the later S2 model 15" rims , they ( AFAIK) are all 15" not 14" and they were not made in the metric size. only the earlier 15" rims had an identical looking metric "brother"

you also need the longer necked water pipe from the top of the radiator to fit around the power steering pump

any front seats from a "MY" series ie 1981-1984 wagon, coupe , sedan will just bolt in. All others usually require some adaption to be done. cheers Lots of Aus specific info here http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/

Hmm ... So a 5 speed EA82 trany bolts straight onto an ea81 engine -- good to know..

the year difference means nothing, its a normal EA82 tranny transplant behind a EA81 engine. Just an adapter spacer, your choice of clutch pairings, a modified length tailshaft, and gearbox support modifications, as well as getting the gear shift up through the floor pan.

Congratulations, that is a very, very nice little unit. Should we assume the upholstery is in your families' official tartan ?

Really really glad you are still here to post this up.

Hmmm Good Q, I thought that Phase 2 was only released in 99. So you could be right, need a more knowledgeable person than me for that question. Sorry

http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?p=240334#post240334 this may help the second list is Subaru Engine Specs, 1985-2008 also http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showpost.php?p=205500&postcount=18

thanks

some photos of a guard that goes in front of the standard bumper rather than replacing it., including a close up of the attaching brackets hope it may help for MY series, including brumby/Brat

bull bar replaces nudge bar and standard bumper feel safer re interstate trips now. needs a little adjustment the bar was second hand and really not in the best condition. the aluminum mesh between all 4 posts had been removed, ( I'll see about replacing it) it was missing one of the rubber pads, missing both steel fitment arms, and one of the 4 captive bolts had been broken off. The new Pup chewed off thel electrical leads from the indicator pods, and one of those got destroyed by me with a fully jammed attachment screw - fortunately they were the standard brumby indicator pods, so I used the ones from the original bumper. Also Ruined one new nut cleaning out the bolt threads. A good mate fabbed up new supports for me, as I had a 5 poster from the same QLD manufacturer on the white brumby, so he used its supports as templates, and they fitted perfectly . I stole a rubber pad of it as well. This was the one that I will still have on the white beast., the 5 posts are just a little too intimidating on a non-lifted Brumby IMHO . But it certainly ensures that EVERYONE gives way to you Got Copper grease to use on the bolts/nuts to make it easier to remove / tighten up next time. But all in all I'm good with it , I wanted four posts and the slight wrap around at the side, and that's what I got.

LucasP its a great job , looks great, won't attract officious attention and will protect from badly driven car park bumper cars, but you need to stop feeding the smaller ancient mythological tribes currently roaming free on the internet. Like my mum told me "if you feed it and it follows you home -- then you will have to clean up ALL its messes"

That is looking very good.

Hi, I think you mean the SOHC VG30E engine. It was in the series 3 Maxima 1988–1994 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Maxima The VQ30DE is actually a DOHC engine, That was in the 4th and 5th Gen maxima from 1995 to 2001 see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine its alternator will not fit an EA81 and could someone take/edit all the fusing / I+RE (little electrical joke there ) off-topic flames off to some other topic, it makes this thread really hard to read with all the off topic arguing. and this is how you get to n alternator in a series 4 , but I think its basically the same procedure in a J30

edited previous post with more photos

There are shallow head units that have usb and bluetooth that can connect to your Iphone or android smart phone ( either wirelessly or with a cable ) to give you hands free phone calls ( very important over here in Oz) for less than $100 US. JVC and Kenwood have cheap base units like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenwood-KMM-108U-Mechless-Digital-Media-Car-Stereo-Receiver-267-4024-/221638415232 and with bluetooth http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-Mechless-Receiver-Usb-Bluetooth-Aux-Input-Remote-MVHX560BT-/321567903382 Over here we did not get speakers in the areas you have indicated, in and below the dash, so I can provide absolutely no usefull advice re replacing those, sorry, will have to hope some one over there can post up for you., We only ever had them in the lower door panels. If you are happy with what your current head unit is giving you , then just putting some 4" speakers into the door panels would be a huge upgrade, and very easy to do. as it happens I have some wagon plastic door panels that have 4" speakers attached, in my shed, that I can photograph tomorrow to give you an idea. You do need to ensure that you get shallow speakers , high quality ones with strong magnets at even 5" will protrude too far into the door and foul the glass and or winding mechanisms, this is where you start to use spacers. But as you just want good spoken word stuff, shallow 4" speakers would be fine. first --- stuff you probably don't want 5 to 6" speakers or cargo speakers 6x9" now - stuff that would work fine for you these are 5" speakers with spacers , which are essentially filler panels that take the face of the speaker out away from the door panel and ensure that the rear of the speaker does not enter far into the door cavity. I'll post up some photos of the shallow 4' speakers that I think were just screwed directly into the plastic door trim tomorrow. these would probably do the job for you easy, even with the original unit, you cant really go wrong running the speaker wire. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pair-4-Inch-2-Way-Speakers-Car-Audio-Speaker-System-Black-/360907502323 cheers edit just found a photo of them before i stripped them from the parts car, they are literally just screwed into the plastic door card , after a 3" hole was cut into it I'll still get some other photos up tomorrow. Magic of internet - It now Tomorrow !!! as I may have implied - its ugly from behind - its very basic -its extremely cheap - it requires minimal manual dexterity, tools or audiophile "attitude" - and it does the job.. I'd use shorter screws and perhaps but just a bit of a 1/4" ply board backing on the inside of the door board to screw into. hope this helps a bit. cheers

Truely - no question is "dumb' post a photo of what you have ATM - one in each front door ? , or do you have 1 in each door ( 4), or do you have a pair in the rear cargo space sides or even in the hatch itself? , you can even look at speakers being placed in the central console or just one under the dash if you just want to hear the newsreaders and don't care about "music" of course you could always go this route always best / easy to replace same size with same size. I can post up photos of various installations. also show us what stereo you have ATM, original ? or some aftermarket job ? because if you are going to put a new one in, its often best to go with a shallow mech-less ( no cd player) unit or do a custom console cheers.

The silver wagon got its A/C pulley replaced with a new bearing and a big and solid (6mm steel tube) - "don't park close to me" tow bar to intimidate the tailgaiters that Adelaide roads are infested with. wanted to have it on the Brumby - but it won't fit. Thanks to a forum member for getting this done for me,

or this ?