Henpecked

or this ?

something like this ?

The Brumby finally got its rear disks , LSD and bash plate today and a bit of S/S and Doggy "bling". rears right and left AND the LSD and Bash Plate and a S/S Tourneau brace and here are the Australian Cattle dog passengers. Dash is a red heeler , with more show ribbons than you can believe ,a full "Australian champion" show dog, she was just a few hundred points away from "Grand Australian Champion" status when the previous owner retired her from showing.. The 17 week old puppy has no papers but has two very hard working blue heeler parents, - what more could you want than a "bluey" born on Australia Day ?? Just for those not full bottle on the old time Australian lingo, "blue heeler" was also the slang name used in the outback for the local constabulary, as they wore blue uniforms and were continually chasing and biting at someones' heels Thanks to a forum member for getting this done for me

Quite a lot got done yesterday, mostly ( actually all ) by a fellow member WIC got 1) repaired drivers side electric window motor ( replaced entire assembly) 2) rims and lyres - 195/60/15s 2) New rear disk Brakes 4) Rear LSD

In Oz we call them bull bars. the black one is a steel 5 bar, the silver one is an alloy 2 bar design. my alloy 5 bar is from a brand name called "Hopper Knockers"

some slightly disturbing videos on that channel. some have 450,000 views and some have 500.

thanks for posting

Got a PM question in my inbox "I have an 82' BRAT that's had a EJ 2.2 with 5spd conversion and would to install power steering on it. Do you know what other parts I would need because of the motor and tranny swap, if any." I'm not across the exact differences but have researched for you, so I can add to this thread. if you have only cut and welded your engine cross-member to fit the EJ - then I assume you have the standard EA81 cross-member and manual rack. So all the advice re fitting the rack and steering connections apply, but I have no idea if the powersteering pump and brackets from a EA81 would fit onto a EL2.2 engine block - I doubt it. I assume that getting a power steering pump/pulley set-up out of a EJ 2.2 powered car would be best, and I think I have read about EJ power-sterring rack going into a Brat/Brumby - but I personally don't know the details. So three options are posted up around the place 1) all EJ conversion Get a full power steering set-up from a EJ2.2 including rack. To fit the EJ rack you need to modify the cross member hole so the steering shaft will fit through. Then you get a 14mm die nut and use it to shorten the EJ rack ends, andyou may need to cut holes in the cross-member for the lines And/or you need to add nolthane cylinder/spacers between the inner tie rod and the rack on each side to limit the steering travel . The inner tie rods screw off the rack to fit the spacers. NOTE: I can't find any advice re the linkage between the EA81 steering shaft and the EJ rack. It would be a good idea to at least get the uni attachment between the EJ steering shaft and the rack This advice above mostly posed by a bloke running a EJ power steering rack out of a '95 WRX 2) Frankenstein EA81/ EJ conversion Get the pump , pulleys, brackets and lines from a EJ 2.2 donor that will fit onto your EJ engine, get the power rack and lines and steering shaft connections from a donor EA81 Allegedly you can use the EJ lines almost completely. The two EJ screw-in fittings that need to screw into the MY rack just don't fit - wrong thread. All you need to do is cut them off and solder on the correct ones from the MY lines and everything works. 3) Frankenstein EJ2.2/EA81/EA82 ( same as 2 above but using more common EA82 power rack) EJ lines fit most EA82 series power racks. EA82 series rack fits brat/brumby cross member. Brat/ Brumby power steer tie rod ends fit L series rack. I have NO personal experience on the above 3 methods - hope this helps pic and discussion here as well http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/102564-steering-rack-swap-ea2ej/

Power steering into an EA81 from a donor EA81 Oz Style - Strip all the parts from a donor vehicle and install to yours.Everything bolts on.. 1) Except the non-power steering car may/will have a "skid" plate attached to the engine cross member with 2 bolts and two welds, instead of the four bolts and four non-captive nuts that are used on the power steering car. On power steering EA81s the skid plate is removable for installation of the rack as it would be impossible otherwise. This is because while you can sometimes (just barely) remove the manual rack with the plate 1/2 attached, its really difficult, Accordingly the general experience has been that on the non-power cross members the entire cross-member must be removed and the manual rack slid out from one side. This is both not possible due to the dimensions of the power rack as at is too thick to insert or remove unless that plate is totally removed, People over here either change the cross member or drill out the welds totally, giving two more holes in the cross member to allow all 4 bolts and nuts to be used to reattach the plate. 2) The 84 and newer motors should have the bolts/ threaded holes on the head to mount up the power steering pump- some have been known not to. To strip all the parts from a donor vehicle and install to yours. get the steering rack from a ea81 bodied vehicle There's a smaller universal joint, that connects the rack to the steering column Different thermostat housing that's longer to clear the rear of the P/S pump, get the water hose as well as a guide for a new one. get the P/S pulley you'll need to have the triple pulley for the crankshaft which will also involve (I believe) getting rid of the crank fan if you still have it and Install a slimline electric fan instead (I could be wrong on that point). Get all the P/S pump/brackets and lines. and I would also grab the linkage from the rack up to the steering column shaft. get the cross-member as well and the skid late if you DO still want to swap cross members. Note: people have switched out cross-members without removing engines - by jacking the engine up (using a block of wood to spread the load)....

Official pug lug nut thread http://www.ultimates...lug-nut-thread/ this will answer your question

Fixed: This is a version of a "shaggy dog " story How to fix 1) remove grill in front of windscreen 2) drop one S/S screw down into bay and wonder why your magnetic extendable tool won't pick it up. 3) hope to find some deformation on hinge panel that explains scraping of hood. 4) Find none 3) loosen the bolt and attempt to find some adjustment slots for the hinge 4) use a 2x4 and a hammer to try to force the nut and bolt further forward. 5) discover that (in the photo) the 12mm bolt head on the left runs through a single non-elongated hole into a captive 13mm nut on the right ( almost invisibly welded to the flange that encapsulates the hinge arm). 6) loosen off the four bolts ( two per side) that hold the hood/bonnet to the other end of the hinge arms. 7) try to move the hood forward. 8) fail and swear 9) remove the hood completely and discover that all four bolts go into captive nuts welded to the flange on the hood/bonnet ( although one hole in each arm is slightly elongated ) . 10)Refit everything and find its still bad. 11) repeat steps 1-9 12) attempt to deform sill down by careful application of deforming force using 2x4 and hammer on the sill 13) repeat step 10 14) repeat step 11 15) surgically apply 120KGS of downward deformation force on sill by walking on it while swearing. 16) repeat step 13 17) elevate problem toV serious and institute Australian emergeny repair level 2 ( use two 2x4s) 18) repeat step 16 19) lower hood/bonnet onto wood and press down with extreme prejudice 20) remove BOTH 2x4s 21) IT NO LONGER SCAPES. 22) repeat step 16 23) discover you have covered the washer spray jets 24) repeat step 14 25) adjust washer spray jets 26) repeat step 20 27) replace wiper arms but drop one nut through sill hole. 28) repeat step 1 29) recover nut 30) repeat step 24 all fixed. time elapsed: 2 hours 24 mins or you could have just done step 17 and 19 and skipped everything else. estimated time elapsed: 3 minutes

the hood began to catch on the forward edge of the grill panel ( scuttle ?) in front of the windscreen, only on the way up. checked the FSM's and took the scuttle panel off and checked the hood hinges - not adjustable , but loosened them off and used a hammer and a block of wood to make sure they were as forward as possible - then tightened back up replaced the scuttle , making sure it was into the tabs under the windscreen and screwed down tight - the hood still caught on the way up took the hood off and discovered that there seem to be NO adjustment at the hood end of the hinges either, as the nuts are all captive on the hood flange side, Also the front holes in the hood hinges are NOT elongated while the rear hole on each - (closest to the windscreen) IS elongated on each arm by about 2mm (1/8") max horizontally , WT !! ??? the bolts fill the front hinge bracket holes 98% - when just inserted through these bracket holes - there is no "wiggle" up and down when I try them by hand -- and there is only 1-2mm horizontally ONLY on the one rear hole per arm, , which is pointless when ALL the holes on the bonnet side are welded-on captive nuts., . So how to fix other than by drilling elongated holes in the hood end of the hinges ? and if so - in what direction to elongate ? front one only down on both arms ( to lift the rear edge of the hood ) or BOTH forward ( to move whole hood away from the windscreen) anything that I am missing here ?

Hi Matt Just a post of thanks for all the work you put into this, and some encouragement to at least post up how you dial in the balance on these for the non-hub centric brats/brumbys and MY/81's out here., even if you don't get a video done. PS a second run would be awesome as well. cheers

pm sent abour 30 mins ago - even then I'm probably about 36th in line

ok the standard offsets for the Aus models were SUBARU LEONE, BRUMBY 77-85 4 X 140 E 42 SUBARU L series 86- 4 X 140 E 55 so +42 for the Brat and +55 for the L series ( gl over there) will keep the wheels/tyres centered on the same track, if you fit 12" wide rims and 340/45/14 rubber (joke) you will will have to panel beat no matter what. 14x6 is what I have, 195/45/14 tyres need no panel beating on a standard height Brumby, and have very little affect on the speedo and gives this outcome over standard http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=175&aspect=75&diameter=13&wheelwidth=5.5&offset=42&width2=195&aspect2=65&diameter2=14&wheelwidth2=6&offset2=42#content any offroad tyres at or under 25" will fit without a lift kit . Over 25" and you need a 2" body lift kit and usually some cutting of the guards unless you put in an adjustable ( longer) castor rod to push the front wheels further forward in the fender. Google is your friend here

I don't quite understand the question as all pug were 4 lug , in any case the pcd140 pug models standard offsets are below pug models offsets ranged from E20 to E35 PEUGEOT 504, 505, 604 75- 4 X 140 E 20 PEUGEOT 504 - ESTATE 70 > 80 4 X 140 E 25 PEUGEOT 504 - SALOON 70 > 80 4 X 140 E 35 PEUGEOT 504 75 > 4 X 140 E 20 PEUGEOT 504 - ESTATE 70 > 80 4 X 140 E 25 PEUGEOT 504 - SALOON 70 > 80 4 X 140 E 35 PEUGEOT 504 75 > 4 X 140 E 20 PEUGEOT 505 75 > 4 X 140 E 25 PEUGEOT 505 - GL / GR / SR / FAMILY 80 > 4 X 140 E 35 PEUGEOT 505 - TI / STI / GTI 80 > 4 X 140 E 20 PEUGEOT 506 75 > 4 X 140 E 20 PEUGEOT 604 78 > 4 X 140 E 25 more info re Aus My ( 81-84) Brumby/brat (1984-1992) and L series (85-91) offsets in my thread here http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24979

Yes , as is said above , it needs about 6mm offset for every 1" of lift ( mixed metric/imperial - sorry) to get the right camber

Hi , yes I know its too late to get in to this at this time around, but would very much like to be first ( or second or 15th ) up if there is ever a second run. I have heaps of experience with getting stuffed shipped over here from the US, and my only virtue is patience ( and honesty - did I really have to edit to get that in !! ) , so I'm up for it being a very vairable schedule - or even no schedule at all - it seems a very well thought out product and I'd like to contribute to it happening. Thanks

so you want to do a auto to manual conversion - thats not all that simple - you need to transplant clutch pedals and associated plumbing as well as replace the auto box with the manual and put in a clutch assembly ? I don't know that that is a great first project. If you want to insert dual range gears from a manual box into an auto - well thats just not possible, sorry