GeneralDisorder

Dont touch cam or crank seals. They are viton and its usually good forever. GD

Yes entire pedal assembly from an 02 to 05 WRX. Plus master, slave, and hose. Or if you found a pedal assembly from a 91 to 94 Legacy Turbo sport sedan 5 speed this would work as well. Also entire clutch and flywheel assembly for the WRX. GD

Just replace the rear input shaft bearing in your existing transmission. It's a $65 part. GD

Oh this is a WRX transmission with a pull clutch isn't it? You have to swap over to hydro. No way to make that work with a cable. GD

10mm pump is what we use for most applications. We upgrade the 7's and the 9's to 10's. Some built engines and 08+ STI get the 11mm. GD

What he's saying is go try putting the 2001 transmission stubs into the 2006 transmission. Might work possibly with a seal change. GD

Agree. It doesn't need to be "repaired". I fix these all the time. The key is inconsequential once the bolt is torqued. Its there for assembly purposes. GD

There's really no difference. The 2002 kit will be stronger (rated for 165 HP). Both will work and since the power level is the 93 2.2 you can use either without problem. The 93 is probably cheaper and if you already have that flywheel go with that one. GD

Well then two motor cycles and a baby seat on the back of one. Cars won't get far with roads clogged or full of invading forces, etc. Unless you already live in the country. Then basically you just have to get farther out of town. Cars will be useless for city dwellers as there wont be any passable roads. Motorcycles will get through the traffic jams and you could stash a truck at your destination. Regardless the 1980's electronic ignition modules under the steel hood of a similar vintage vehicle are not going to be the least bit damaged by an EMP. Their cicuit density is too low and their circuit paths are large by modern standards. EMP may temporarily cause interference but it couldn't possibly burn one out. Not enough current could be generated via EMP to damage their comparatively enormous circuits. GD

An EMP is not going to hurt an electronic distributor. For one the engine bay itself, having no windows acts like a big faraday cage. The bigger problem will be having an operable vehicle when the roads are clogged with accidents from stalled cars - most of which will restart after the EMP passes, but many will cause accidents as the stall on the freeway, and panicking citizens trying to flee some perceived threat such as the nuke that created the EMP. Better to keep a dual sport motorcycle wrapped in several layers of tin-foil in the shed if you really need a bug-out solution. GD

It only matters what Subaru says. Read the FSM if you still have questions. Do not wire wheel the bolts. It removes the aluminized anti-friction coating and promotes creaking. You can buy them individually from Subaru. Just the ones you need. GD

That is the air conditioning condenser core. You may not open it without discharging the system with appropriate refrigerant recovery equipment. It is against federal law. If the system is already empty you can remove it to do the repairs then have a shop recharge after all leaks are fixed. Warning - the shop may have to replace the condenser core and if they do it will be all the work you are doing over again to remove the radiator to get at it. GD

Subaru "factory reman" axles are not green. They are not aftermarket. GD

Right. They didn't fix it till the 2011 Legacy and Impreza models. The Forester went FB so never saw the fix. 11 to 13 EJ non-turbo models got the 770 gasket like the WRX. Solving the oil weeping. The gasket was updated in mid '02 to stop the coolant leakage. It does seem to have worked for the vast majority of the 03+ models that I've seen. I have an '02 Impreza in the shop right now leaking coolant, and an '03 Legacy up next that only leaks oil. Though it's leaking that oil INTO the coolant . GD

Oil - yes. Coolant - No. Not unless the gasket was done improperly after manufacture. Which does happen. The dealer doesn't surface heads. GD

For sure - you just get a standard Bosch style relay and harness from the parts store. The relay will be labeled per this diagram. Hook it up just as shows here: GD

The CEL ie because the ECU is getting the starter signal, but the starter isn't turning. Thus the ECU assumes the crank sensor must be bad and throws a code. The crank sensor is not bad nor has it ever been bad. You are troubleshooting without understanding how any of this works. If the starter was a cheapo from a parts store - that's your problem. If it was a quality starter like dealer new, dealer reman, or a denso reman then you need to install a relay in the crank circuit to apply full battery current to the starter solenoid. GD

I think they don't understand what's going on when you press the hub in. You support the inner cone/inner race, which pushes on the outer cone's inner race. No more force than is normally encountered when the bearing is fully assembled is put on the rollers as the clearances are set by the dimensions of the two inner races. Sounds to me like they are doing it wrong, and then changed their approach to do it wrong another way instead of learning and understanding the right way to do it. I am doing it the way the factory service manual outlines using the SST made by Kent-Moore. Though I use a Hub Tamer by OTC. Same tool just different branding and 1/10th the price. GD

Neither. The speedo is cable driven and the "sensor" is the gauge cluster itself. Check the drive cable. GD

Not cheaper if you are doing your own labor. Prior to install you would want to do the HG's anyway. I've seen plenty of 2.2's blow HG's. Just did a '90 with 110k on it, and a '95 with 125k. GD

EJ251 pistons, 2008 STi head gaskets. Run premium for the compression increase. GD

Ours are also run by the state. They ripped out the dyno's years ago. The OBD-II lanes are now self service. The sniffer is idle, and 2500 rpm test. I've passed it multiple times with alcohol from the paint store. The powers that be can't prove a thing in a court based on internet forum chat. Besides none of them are even in my name. I register all mine outside the test boundaries. At the end of the day they don't care either. Its just a money grab and anyone that cares to can easily circumvent the test. If not by directly cheating you can simply register the car to an address pulled from google maps that's outside the test boundaries.... which is the VAST majority of land in OR. GD

Definitely not! The seal must be installed in the knuckle to insure it is properly seated. The hub is pressed through the outer seal, and both bearing cones simultaneously. GD

87k and 8 years is not at all "disappointing" for a belt. Replace the $6 belt and move on. GD

I have had those exact two bosses welded due to the same collision damage. Steven of Inferno Fabrications had no trouble at all. But he is VERY good with TIG in general. He has welded cracked AVLS pressure switch bosses IN THE CAR with perfect results. The man is an artist. Given his skills I have no problem handing him that block. GD