GeneralDisorder

The carbon buildup is from bad rings. If you don't address that then it will just come back. And if you are doing all this work and it's been burning oil then you need to check oil pump condition, cut the filter and check for metal, etc. The engine is probably a lost cause if valve guides are out of place. That usually indicates overheating, and excessive oil consumption. Which due to cost and parts availability means throw it away on an EA82. GD

In short, no it's not a decent oil. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/850370/1 If you are running a 2.2, and you run it like grandma and you change if FREQUENTLY it might only due minor damage in the long term. Probably cause spalling of the camshaft, followers, and roller rockers if equipped first. And plug up all your oil drain back passages in the pistons. Although with 2.2 pistons they have a huge slot so.... ultimately it will just end up burning an exhaust valve or throwing a rod from running that garbage. That oil will not handle heat, or heavy loading, and has no longevity. TBN less than 8???! If you have a 2.5 or you want to see more than 200k out of your engine internals - run a quality synthetic. I use Amsoil in all my engines. Including all my engine builds. The 2.5 has severely diminished piston oil return capacity and it takes very little carbon build up to cause major oil consumption problems. A few oil changes with non synthetic that go over the 3k mile limit and it will be a mess. I see oil consumption on engines with less than 100k of this abuse. GD

How is this a rebuild? Do you mean head gaskets?

Wheel bearing. Need to check them with a stethoscope while driving on a lift.

Low toxicity coolant (Propylene Glycol or "PG" for short) is not as good at heat transfer or freezing protection. It is an inferior product to Ethelene Glycol (EG) based coolant. If your engine and cooling system are properly maintained, it is highly unlikely that an animal will ingest it. My experience has been that most animals and pets completely disregard open containers of anti-freeze when they have plentiful sources of fresh water. If you are concerned, then get some grey absorbent matting as used in garages and shops and put it under the car where you park. I do not recommend the use of PG coolant. Nor do I see the point in the Subaru additive. Fix the HG's with the 770 gaskets, replace the radiator and all the hoses and don't worry about it. GD

Yep. Pure sex in a bottle that stuff. GD

Subaru engines use one crank and one cam sensor. They rarely fail. Talk to the ECU. Use a scope to verify sensor waveforms. Troubleshooting with VISA will get you nowhere. GD

It will work just fine. Your mechanic doesn't know Subarus. Find a qualified Subaru mechanic. GD

05 is pre-CANBUS so there's a chance you could dry out the electrical connections, replace the engine computer, and get it to run. Engine computer is under the passenger carpet so it's certainly toast. The rest of the electrical might be salvageable if you get to it fast enough and dry it out. Rip out the seats and all the carpeting and steam clean them then let it dry in the sun. Get to every connection under the carpet and dry them with WD40. Replace ECU. After that it should run. Well - I could save it anyway. Easily in fact. But it's up to you to decide if this is with your time. GD

One of the diff is probably bad. Front, rear, or center. Or trans itself. GD

Why would you go to heart of the rust belt in VA to buy a car? There's tons of those for sale here in Oregon. You got reamed by the used car dealer, and then took the car to a Subaru dealer for repair? I.... I just can't even.... wow. Find a reputable independent Subaru specialist. The dealer is not this. The Subaru dealers can't find good techs and their online training is abysmal. Seriously the Subaru dealer service department is in very bad shape at most dealers. Don't go there. Sounds like either the timing is set wrong, or there are oil delivery problems to the phasers.... combined with the ticking noises I would say at least potentially you have an oil pressure issue which could be catastrophic. DO NOT run the engine. At all. DO NOT drive it. Even a foot. Tow the car to the best independent Subaru specialist you can find AFTER you have a conversation with them about their H6 experience. I doubt this ends well. Just saying. GD

Make sure the O2 is plugged in. If it is get a new one. And then you need to clean the idle air control valve.

Usually just use a 1/4" drive seep socket to tap them on... gently. Honestly we never change them - they just don't fail in our experience so it's rarely worth the effort. If lapping valves I sometimes change them if I'm feeling like it needs it but I have yet to see a bad one. GD

Depends on how nasty your tank is. Hard to put a mileage figure on it. Probably every couple years. Subaru really needs to move to plastic gas tanks. Should have done it about two decades ago actually. GD

The in-tank filters are like a corrugated paper filter material wound in a spiral. We had an 02 WRX blow through it's filter (high volume pump) and push nasty gas tank crud into the 1000cc injectors. 21psi boost and 50% plugged injector. It split the cylinder wall like a banana. The paper filter material becomes weak with age and too much differential pressure will blow a hole through it pushing crap into the injectors. GD

Probably has the timing off a tooth or the AVLS is screwed up. The rocker assembly on those heads is quite complicated. GD

Absolutely. Get some Amsoil assembly lube and be generous with it. GD

It depends on how it's driven, for sure. I drive everything like I stole it. The vast majority of the time I take off at WOT - especially in a Subaru with an NA engine and AWD. GD

Just roll it between your palms. Lift once in a while and reapply compound. You don't need much. Clean everything with brake cleaner and compressed air. GD

No you will see a decrease because the less powerful engine will have to work harder and the gearing was not chosen for the 2.2 power band. The best solution is 251 pistons. 2.2's are getting old and hard to find. GD

After'04/'05 they moved the fuel filters to the tank on all models. They are not a service item. They run about $70 from the dealer and you have to pull the fuel pump assembly and take it apart. We change the AT filters along with the fluid. 60k or 30k severe service. Amsoil calls out the same filter for engine and trans so we use their filter since it's only $15. They have VERY thick casings and can take the trans fluid pressure unlike normal oil filters. GD

6-Star is a ridiculous and insulting marketing ploy. They are just rebranded Cometic gaskets. They are not better in any way IMO than the Subaru 642/770. GD

Yeah I just wad up a rag and rest the chamber on it when I'm using the valve master. GD

Just get a valve lapping handle with the various sized suction cups and some permatex lapping compound. Should be at any auto parts store. Use assembly lube on the valve stem. I use one of these for valve removal/installation: http://www.toyotool.com/ GD

Buy a wrecked USDM WRX. It will be much easier. JDM EJ205's are super cheap..... Either way though - 205 or 222 with a low psi turbo - it's still going to be slow without upgrades. If you want real performance then start with a built 257 short block with forged internals. 205 heads, manifold, and ECU will be fine. We have 02-05 WRX's making 400 WHP on 205 heads with 257 block/ cams @ 25 psi. GD