GeneralDisorder

Just get a new timing belt and put it on. The engine you have is non-interferance and will not have been damaged by skipping a few teeth on the timing belt. Check to make sure the cam pulley(s) aren't bent from the impact. Good idea to replace the idlers, cam/crank seals, and water pump at the same time. You can get complete kits with all the parts for about $100 including shipping from ebay. GD

The non-fouler trick WILL work. The only time it doesn't work is if you have bad sensors or major exhaust leaks. Anything new enought to be flashed can have the code "tuned" out as Jacob sugests above - this is a good alternative but in most cases costs more than the non-fouler unless you can flash the ECU yourself. GD

They can't be installed backwards. Don't worry about that GD

Just to verify the assumption that there is a clutch problem and that the pressure plate isn't being pushed far enough - rig something between the slave piston and the fork to get it to push farther and see if the problem goes away. Also - have you or anyone else checked the end-play on the crank? I recently had to return an EJ22 I bought for a job because it had over .040" of end-play (service limit is .010" and nominal is around .005"). This could cause the crank and the entire flywheel/clutch assembly to move forward away from the release bearing. If it were me at this stage of the game..... I'm checking crank end-play, fork and pivot ball part numbers vs. slave/MC parts, and then I'm putting in a verified thickness flywheel, brand new exedy clutch kit, and making damn sure I don't have to open it up again. GD

If it shifts fine with the engine off but is hard to get into gear with engine running - you surely have a clutch issue. Is the fork pivot ball threaded into the correct boss on the tranny for the fork/slave being used - is the fork correct for the slave? Was the flywheel turned too thin thus moving the assembly too far toward the engine? I hope you figure it out man.... GD

On the Imp the lines run under the head (actually attached to the head on the hard-lines) and thus seem to get hard and crack sooner than the Legacy lines. 135k is about right for that failure on the Imp. GD

The updated gaskets are unlikely to leak. Probably will last the life of the engine. I've done quite a few of these and I haven't had a single problem yet. In fact I've never had a head gasket blow that I've replaced. It's all about attention to detail. GD

Yes. That's perfectly fine. GD

The bearing looking object in that kit is the lip seal for the pump shaft. The kits do not include bearings. It is a sealed, pre-greased, 6202 bearing. The industry standard nomenclature for which is 6207-2RS. Anything other than that is manufacturer specific and thus not useful when ordering bearings. GD

You don't shop at parts stores for bearings......:-\ The pump uses a 6202-2RS bearing (later pumps use a 6203). They are less than $5 from any bearing supplier. They are NOT included in the reseal kit anyway. NAPA does have them listed as alternator bearings (which is totally stupid because a 6k series bearing is just a bearing - fits millions of things) but the price is typically higher than a bearing supplier. GD

Back of the engine behind the flywheel/flexplate. It is only accesible with the engine out. The plastic one's always leak. GD

Echo? I just said that GD

The stock fuel pump puts out ok pressure for the Weber. If anything it's a little low so a pressure regulator won't help a bit. Generally I run them without a return line to get as much pressure from the wimpy pumps as possible. GD

Well..... have you done much bearing work? Have you ever done a drive axle on the car? Doing a wheel bearing is like a hot-dog - you have to do a drive axle job (the bun) to start and end the bearing job (the dog) because the bearings are only accesible with the axle out of the knuckle. The books will tell you that you cannot do either one (the axle or the bearing) because they require a press and special adaptors. This is NOT true. The axle can be removed from the bearings relatively easily using a decent sized hammer and a block of wood, etc to prevent damage to the threads. Once the axle is out of the knuckle the bearings can be drifted out using a large brass punch, etc. Then the knuckle cleaned and inspected and new bearings drifted in. Making sure never to apply force to the new bearings through their rolling elements. The seals are then replaced and the axle reinstalled. If you need help you could bring it up to my shop - will probably be a couple hours (give or take - unknown condition car to me) plus the parts to change out the bearings. I happen to have some bearings here even. GD

It won't damage the hub on the EA's - that's something that can happen on the EJ's. Typically on the EA's one of the two bearings starts making terrible noises and the other one is still fine. Get a pair of 6207-2RS bearings from McGuire, and some new seals (though I often reuse the seals when I do them), and change out the bearings. Only takes an hour or so - pull the knuckle, drift them out, and drive in the new ones. GD

All the one's I've seen have been #4, but they have all been solid-lifter engines. Depending on the cause of the burned valve..... if it's lean injector related then #3 makes more sense because it's the last injector and the most likely to be lean (or more lean than the other's). If the valve lash has closed up and the valve hung open then it could technically happen on any cylinder. Both of the one's I have seen have been #4 exhaust valves though. A leak-down check will show immediately where the loss of compression is going. Put the cylinder at TDC on the comp. stroke and run compressed air into the cylinder - if it's all escaping from the exhaust then you know where your problem lies..... or just pull the head since it really doesn't matter what is wrong - it has to come apart anyway. GD

You can put dimes under them if you like. It is sometimes done for cam regrinds due to the design of the EA82 cams and carriers. GD

The O2 is used for part-throttle cruise, and idle. It cannot be used for WOT, or acceleration. Just the nature of the sensor. It will throw a code and can cause the ECU to do funny things as it goes into "limp mode" when it experiences failures. The system can never enter closed-loop operation with a bad or missing O2. Your mileage will decrese in a big way..... long story short - use the O2 sensor. A replacement single-wire unit is only about $25 GD

You won't find plastic plates till late '95 and '96. Even the EJ25D's from '96 had the aluminium plate. EJ22's used plastic starting in '95. All your's will be fine. GD

You probably won't be able to tell the difference between old and new and in any case looking at the belt doesn't tell you if the water pump, idlers, tensioner, or seals were replaced. With a 105k mileage belt it is frankly a stupid idea to not replace that stuff because it is unlikely to go till 210k before failing. But people do it all the time to get off cheap and Subaru doesn't actually say those components need to be replaced so of course people are skeptical when the dealer or shop reccomends it. The unromantic truth is that no matter what's been done - if there are no records of it - you have to assume it was done poorly or not at all. Thus that needs to be considered into the price. I always explain that to sellers when I'm looking to buy. If they don't have paperwork then I have to assume it needs it - thus I'm going to need $500 (or whatever) off the asking price to account for that...... frankly you shouldn't have to be removing covers on other people's cars to check for maintenance they should have paperwork on. It's her fault for not keeping the records now she's going to pay the price. GD

You likely need a new oil pump, and the cam carrier o-rings replaced at a minimum to knock out the TOD for good. It might also require new/reman lifters as well as the pressure relief springs in the cam spray bar banjo fittings. It is very seldom that a repair in a bottle will fix TOD for any decent length of time. Usually it comes back very shortly. GD

I buy their kits and install their supplied (brown - probably Buna-n) seals all the time. If properly installed with a proper tool (hard to do on a Honda being transverse) they are just fine. I have probably installed several DOZEN of these kits and not a single complaint. On the Subaru kits they always supply 4 cam seals (rubberized outer metal ring) even on the SOHC engines so I have a monster baggy of extra cam seals for the occasional installation mishap . Parts suppliers are only half the equation - it's up to the mechanic installing the parts to judge their fitness for use and their quality. Mizumoauto has always supplied me with Japanese bearing idlers and decent quality water pumps, seals, and belts. I ALWAYS tell everone what quality of parts they are getting and under NO circumstances are the parts to be allowed to run past the next timing belt change. With the price of the "kit" it's a no-brainer to just replace all the parts every single time. Knock on wood..... but I have had exactly one shipping mistake through them - sent me an incorrect idler. They promptly sent me the correct one without question and I sent back their mistake. I for one see no problem with their kits - perhaps the problem is with their "Honda" kits. Which I will take note of - though I have installed two of their Honda 4 cylinder kits - also without incident. So I have to wonder what happened here. It is the poor mechanic that blames his tools or his parts..... GD

Keep putting oil in it for now, and plan on checking out the rings and/or valve stem seals with a leak-down test, etc. GD

Because the resistor is made from coils of nichrome wire and without the cooling effect of the airflow from the vent duct it would rapidly overheat and fail. GD

That's because SOA only orders half a dozen units at a time from Japan and only when the current stock is entirely depleted. We have seen this with EA81 oil pumps for example. Sometimes have to wait a couple weeks for the stock to be refilled from Japan. When no more of the valves are left in the country they will order 6 of them from Japan and they will be out of stock till more arrive. GD