GeneralDisorder

I use theimportexperts, and mizumoauto on ebay and haven't had a problem with their (brown) seals. I also buy from a local parts house that does a lot of OEM brand parts..... in any case I haven't had a single problem with any of the seals I've installed. GD

You are posting in someone's thread and in the wrong forum. Please make a new thread in the "new generation" forum. GD

Well that's the tricky part and probably why more people here go through MWE than buy the EMPI's - you have to find an EMPI dealer in your area or online. I am lucky that I have a really excelent independant parts store that specializes in VW's (but does all "imports") and carries everything EMPI offers. I also shop there so much they know me by name and have graced me with a business account so I get amazing deals. I think the last EMPI axle I bought for a Honda was $55 GD

I don't know what your schedule is like, but I have a good friend and customer that brings his rigs to me from Olympia. If you want to bring it down to the Portland area..... EA81's are a specialty of mine and I'm sure I could get you fixed up and on the right path. GD

I know MWE is highly regarded, but I haven't had any problems with EMPI axles thus I have never gone through MWE because EMPI is cheaper, brand new, and warrantied through my local parts house. I also routinely rebuild/reboot OEM axles with excelent results. Look for the one's with green painted joints - those are the NTN factory axles. GD

I almost exclusively use EMPI axles - including the custom axles we made for the frankenbrat - EMPI EA81 axles with 25 spline EJ inner joints (also EMPI). Haven't had a single issue with them. I've lost a boot on one that's in my hatch after a couple years (it's stock height) but that's it. They run me about $60 to $65 per axle, are brand new, and carry a lifetime warrantee. GD

I agree. Not an issue for EJ's. GD

They didn't replace the idlers, tensioner, or water pump for that price. There's very little chance that you will make it another 105k without one of them failing. The dealership should have reccomended they be replaced. GD

'97'/98 will work, yes. '99 through '01 will not as those are phase-II engines. There is no differences other than the exhaust port layout and lifter type on any of the EJ22 heads from '90 to '98. They all have the same size valves and the same size combustion chambers - what changed on the '97+ is the pistons. GD

Any cost savings (which is minimal I assure you - I do EJ timing belts all the time and the kits are $120 to $250 depending on year), is entirely eaten by the added labor to change the timing belt on a transverse engine. Newer Toy's (including the Camry I beleive) do have interferance engines. The reality is that they have more effecient combustion chambers. It's a trade off on some level I suppose but if properly maintained (a whopping TWO whole times in the life of the average car!) it's simply not an issue. They don't just break out of the blue. GD

The reality is that Subaru went to interferance designs precisely because their belt system (if properly maintained every 105k) is extremely reliable. Buy what you like - avoid the EJ25D unless you plan on swapping in an EJ22, etc. Interferance vs. non shouldn't be a factor - replace the belt/idlers/water pump/seals on whatever you buy immediately. GD

You run a compression check on that cylinder? Listen to the injector with a stethescope? Swap injectors or the whole fuel rail to rule it out? GD

I think the Z cars used R180's and R200's.... it's the 510 coupes and sedans (wagons were solid axle) that people use the Subaru diffs for. GD

Blown turbo. It's throwing oil and coolant into the exhaust and explains your lack of boost. GD

What he really meant by "that's it" is the R&P setup process. Changing the gears to another set is trivial (open case, put in gears!) by comparison to what must be done after they are in the case - setting the clearances between the two is not something that most people are trained to do or really have the time/patience/equipment to undertake. GD

Also - the pump doesn't run unless you are cranking the engine or the engine is running. You won't have any power to the pump with just the key turned on. Could be the belt or something else but you have to check power while cranking. GD

You'll have to get under the dash and find out why it's not pushing on the clutch master cylinder. Something has run-afoul between the pedal and the master cylinder rod I would guess. GD

Just leave it alone. If you want a turbo then go buy one that's already got it. You don't just "install" a turbo. The whole engine has to be replaced with a turbo version. There is no easy way to do that unless you buy a wrecked WRX, etc and install the whole drivetrain. The EJ22T is not an OBD-II (95+) engine and will not work easily in your car. The last year of production on it was '94. It's also not a powerful engine without modification. It makes 165 HP to your 135. Changing the whole drivetrain for 30 HP is kindof a waste. If you really want more power - look into the frankenmotor swap - using a 2.5 bottom end under your existing heads, intake, and electronics. It's about 180 to 200 HP and no turbo is needed. The cap which you refer to is on the back of the passenger side head? That's where the distributor goes for versions of that engine sold in countries where a carburetor is installed instead of the fuel injection - South America, parts of Europe, etc. GD

Depends on the type of driving you do. Wheel bearings on Subaru's (with the exception of some specific models that have had problems - SVX, early Forester/Impreza, etc) tend to last a long time. 200k is not at all uncommon. Spirited driving and lots of hard cornering can take it's toll and end their life early - also it could be that a number of bearings in the shipment used for the knuckles on your car was dropped and thus shortened their life..... bearings are very sensitive to handling and thus it's not uncommon to see a car that has a premature bearing failure subsequently have more of the same bearings fail - they probably were from the same shipment to the manufacturer and some shipping monkey dropped a whole box of them. That is supposed to invalidate their use but often "mistakes" like that will go unreported for fear of job loss, punishment, etc. GD

Typically the risk outweighs the cost savings. A new radiator runs about $100 to $150 or so. Used is going to run about $50 plus core..... give or take. The problem is that it's likely a 15 year old radiator and the plastic tanks tend to fail long before the core does - usually splitting and cracking from age, etc. Also you have to "gamble" on some junkyard's speculation that the radiator is in good shape or really roll the dice if it's a u-pull-it style yard where you have to inspect and judge the part yourself. Then you figure entry fee, environmental fee, your time, etc..... it's just not really viable unless you are flat broke and you have to take the risk. GD

Waste of time. The recalled alt part number at the dealer is only $65 and you will get new brushes, rectifier, and bearings. Also, replace your belts when they get hard and squeal instead of tightening the hell out of them and blowing all the accesory bearings. GD

It's the bracket that supports the end of the mustache bar that holds up the front of the diff. It's bolted to the body with a couple of 8mm bolts and then a large 12mm bolt that goes through the rubber bushing mount of the mustache bar. It was bent such that the metal ring that supports the mustache bar rubber bushing was actually touching the mount - causing a knocking noise and vibration due to the metal-on-metal contact that was bypassing the rubber bushing mount. Removed the bracket, Hammered it straight on the anvil, and reinstalled. No big deal really - finding it was the biggest chore. GD

Those are both diagnostic connectors and should remain unplugged. Green is for D-Check mode and Black is for Read Memory mode. GD

I agree - the gauges ARE sold seperately (from the dealer) and the temp gauge itself is no more than $75 or so. As noted it's about 20 minutes to pull the cluster and about an hour total to swap out the gauge. Your mechanic is a hack and has no idea what he's doing. Instead of actually finding out what the procedure is and THEN quoting you a price he's just assuming it's a horrible job and would take many hours. He also isn't properly diagnosing the cooling system. I noted that it takes about 30 seconds to get a resistance reading from the gauge sender...... You are being ripped off. GD

ECS stands for emissions control system. Means you had a computer controlled Hitachi before you swapped to the Weber. The computer is mad that it doesn't see it's duty solenoids, etc. I pretty much figured you didn't have power to the choke. That's not uncommon with installations where people aren't familair with carbs. Thus the high idle and rich mixture. GD