GeneralDisorder

Yes it can be done. It's not that difficult in fact. Need transmission, clutch, pedal assembly, entire rear end, and driveline..... Rings at 68k? Very unlikely. Sounds like an old-man diagnosis to me. These engines go 300k and still don't need rings. Unless some very abusive maintenance/driving took place - this is highly unlikely. GD

What I did was cut the outer race from an old 6207 in half and weld it back together (this shrank it so it fits without interferance into the knuckle) and then welded a pipe nipple to it and threaded a pipe cap onto it. I use it to either press the bearings in on my press or more typically to knock them in with a dead-blow. The fit is not that tight and they go in easily if you insure there is no burrs or imperfections in the bearing pocket. Don't forget the spacer! GD

Intersting - well I hope it stays unstuck and doesn't fall out again like that. I wouldn't have gone with all that fancy additive junk. Oil is best left as it comes out of the bottle. An ATF flush (or 10 ) might have done some good. I'm just not a fan of additives that get left in the oil long-term. That engine has such an extreme varnish/sludge problem that I might have been tempted to flush it with deisel or kerosene..... though I would be afraid of what would come loose from the rings, etc in the process or if they would even want to seal after that. GD

This is VERY simple to diagnose. Check the temp with a gun and then check the resistance reading of the gauge sending unit on the coolant cross-over. If it's where it's supposed to be then the gauge is bad. If the resistance is too low for the reading taken by the gun then the sender is bad. If the cooling fans cycle on, then off and the temp is stable - it's not overheating. Period. The fans are controlled by the ECU via it's temp sender. The gauge and it's sending unit are completely seperate entities and are occasionally prone to failure. Also '96 in particular has known problems with corrosion or loose screws on the back of the gauge cluster causing incorrect readings. You need a new mechanic. This should take about 30 seconds to diagnose. GD

They dont jet them any different. All 32/36 carbs, regardless of application, come with "base" jetting - 140/140 mains, 170/160 air correctors, and 50/50 idle jets. Typically this jetting is fine - usually EA82's will want a 60 or 65 primary idle jet but that is all I change. I have put a wideband O2 on several of them and the base jetting is excelent. No reason it shouldn't pass emissions. By setup I mean your adjustments - idle speed/mixture, choke setting, and ignition timing. I'm not talking about jetting. GD

Yes that does seem a good idea - what part number did you use for your 2-wire replacement? I imagine any generic 2 wire sensor would work so it's down to cost and ease of install.... GD

Either the cam is flat or the valves are carboned up and unable to close. With the oil varnish in that thing..... your best bet is to tear it down or find a replacement. There's no easy fix for that - your engine has suffered obvious and serious abuse to end up in that state. These engines are known for their reliability and the failure you have is not at all common. GD

Yep - you need inner axle joints from a 90 to 94 Legacy - or the whole axles. All the EJ axles are pretty much the same length. Differences do exist but they are very small and won't cause issues. GD

No - you don't put anything on the bolt holes. Go around them. And no beads - just squirt it on your finger and "ice" the flange like a cake. GD

There is a fast-idle cam associated with the choke - if the choke is not fully warmed before attempting to set the idle you will not get anywhere because the fast idle cam will prevent the throttle plate from closing completely. Could also be why it's so rich. When running rich the exhaust temps drop and in association with a cat that is farther back it could lead to inneficient catalyst action..... but it's hard to say since your carb is setup all wrong. GD

I wouldn't try to make a "bead" of thickness "x" or anything like that. It's very deceptive how much "sqeeze out" you will get from a 1/4" bead.... it will be obscene. . The better method is to create a uniform thickness "layer" evenly spread across the mating surface of the pan. RTV is best used by spreading it with your finger - like buttering toast. You don't leave the butter in a big glop in the middle do you? No - because you need to know that you have enough to cover the surface and not too much. That's the purpose of spreading it out. Personally I've been using a lot more loctite 518/permatex anearobic than I have RTV and it's treating me very well. It's not as messy as RTV and won't cure except in the absense of oxygen. Torque the pan bolts to 6-8 ft/lbs. That's always worked well for me. I use an inch-pounds wrench on them. GD

Heh - that's not to say that I haven't used a speedi-sleeve a time or two - mostly on SBC crank's and in my former life as an industrial machinery tech. There's one on the crank in my truck right now in fact. Those 1960's seals tend to create big, nasty grooves crankshafts when they go hard. GD

The speedo drive gear/shaft/seal is not serviceable from outside the transmission. You would have to remove the tranny and dissasemble it. Not worth doing with a 4 speed. Just replace it with a 5 speed. GD

I almost always use a screwdriver to pull seals. I have yet to damage a shaft doing so. It's all about technique. If you don't know what you are doing then find someone that does. There are seals and seal locations where a seal puller will not work - and yeah I've used self-tapper's and such and even a few fancy german seal pulling specialty tools in the Audi world. Screwdriver is still my mainstay seal pulling tool. Done properly it will not leave a mark on a shaft. All too often people are pulling seals with the "wrong technique" and blame the tool when in the hands of a pro the tool is not at fault. And in most cases unless the shaft is really torn to peices - you can just dress the sharp edges of the gouges from a poorly placed screwdriver removal and it will be fine. A bit of work with a points file and/or a peice of sharpening stone will work wonders. When a quality seal is subsequently installed straight and true it will be unlikely to leak to any significant degree. Most seal failures I see are from crooked seal installation. GD

Just use a clutch kit for a '98 2.5 RS. That will give you what you need and the best possible clamping force. Best brand is OEM - Exedy is second. Exedy is usually cheapest off Amazon lately. GD

5th is accessible from the back of the transmission without splitting the case. However I doubt it will be easy to remove the driven gear from the secondary shaft without a press. It's keyed to the shaft but it's still an interferance fit and will not come off easily. Besides that it's very close to the large rear secondary shaft bearing and the clearance there for prying insturments is small - plus large amounts of prying force could damage the bearing...... And you can't do much heating to the gears or your could destroy their delicate temper. I wouldn't attempt it or if I did I would know when to give up and split the case. It's not that hard to do once you are at that level of dissasembly anyway - just split it, pull the shaft out and press the gear off. Then while you are at it replace the primary shaft's rear bearing - they are always the first to fail. Get the 10-ball bearing for a turbo tranny. The input shaft gear will come off without a fight. Just don't lose any of the syncro bits. Also be aware that you are in delicate territory as to what will fit what.... the '99 transmission went through a big redesign and I highly doubt that the driven 5th gear will have the same woodruf key size as the '95 tranny. I ran into a difference in the key sizes between a '95 STi tranny (JDM) and a '98 Legacy transmission causing me to have to use the whole driven shaft in order to get the 5th gear. I put all the STi components onto the Legacy shaft.... it's possible that even more things are differerent betweeen the '95 and '99 transmissions you have - they have a completely different center diff section and possibly incompatible internals. Be very careful what you get yourself into. I have had to make custom shaft keys when doing things like you are talking about. If you don't have machine shop abilities and equipment - better to just leave it to the pro's. GD

That's airbox foam sealing tape that's getting eaten by the HVAC squirrel cage fan. Pull the fan and motor (behind glove-box) and remove the debris from the fan blades. GD

I concur - sounds like bad u-joints in the driveline. They will often go silent when in 4WD but will clunk around quite a bit when in 2WD. Just change the u-joint. They are about $25. GD

You can't drill that with normal bits - you would need carbide to cut a spring steel pin. You are better off just cutting the material away on the joint cup to allow the pin enough movement to be pulled free. GD

Your cable is probably routed over the steering linkage or heater core hoses. it should be under both or premature failure will result. GD

Pressure test the system, replace thermostat, radiator cap, and coolant and any suspect hoses. Your problem is either one of those or a head gasket. Do the easy stuff first. GD

You might have a bad pump - they only get power while cranking or running. Check for power to the FPCU bolted to the hood release cable bracket next to the driver's left knee. GD

Turbo's use a different core support to accommidate their radiator. GD

Won't work. GD

The pickup tube/screen has fallen off the pump. Pull the pump/sending unit out and fix it. The jet pump is not likely the problem and in any case you have to drop the tank to get to it. GD