GeneralDisorder

Most of the time the only solution is new oil pump, lifters, and cam carrier seals. Rick

When the Weber's are setup correctly and the timing is right, etc they will not diesel. The plastic bit that melted is a silencer for the Air Injection System. You need to block the AIS valve's inlet pipe with a quarter inserted into the valve body or weld up the pipe coming from the spacer under the head. The reed inside the valve has broken as is letting raw exhaust though into your engine bay - which is neither healthy nor safe. GD

I agree. Stripped hub splines. Put it in gear (2wd) and then let out the clutch and watch the axle nuts on the front. The one with the stripped hub will be spinning..... GD

Accerator pump could be shot - passages partially clogged, incorrect timeing, poorly working vacuum advance, worn throttle shafts, etc. Many things can cause a lean condtion when transistioning from the idle circuit to the primary circuit. Probably best to check timing and advance operating - do a tune up with plugs and wires, and then rebuild the carb. GD

#2 is where you *should* have tapped into the tach signal and the fuel pump power supply lead for the SPFI's harness. It's the easiest place to access those. GD

The frankenmotor brat had a genuine Subaru XT6 clutch plate and about 190 HP going into a standard 5 speed D/R and never had any issues. As i said you won't get a true XT6 plate unless you get it from the dealer. The aftermarket are just EA82 plates and they suck. GD

You mean a Sport Sedan or Turbo Touring Wagon (SS/TTW). Yes you can but you need one from a '92, '93, or '94. A '91 will not fit. GD

I don't think anyone local does - I've thought about having some cut but I don't have my own mill yet and so no easy way to locate all the holes accurately or a jig setup to do it. I have a couple adaptors if you want to copy one but they aren't for sale at the moment. You just need a chunk of 1/2" plate aluminium and a jig-saw... then transfer punch the holes and carefully punch them with a drill press. The flywheel is easily done with a die grinder and a carbide burr. When/if I go into production of them I'll have the plates water jet cut and then mill all the holes oversized into a jig plate and insert drill guides. Then I'll be able to punch them out for about $75 a pop. When I find a deal on a bridgeport that is... GD

The only way you will get a *true* XT6 pressure plate is to buy it at the dealer. All the aftermarket one's are just EA82 clutch kits with the same pressure plate, etc (cross-reference the part numbers if you like - I already did). Unfortunately the OEM one's are about $160 for *just* the pressure plate.... but you can't beat them for holding power. GD

If we decide to do that then we will reinforce the strut tower area and add a slotting system that can accurately adjust the camber via a series of holes. GD

You use NON "NS" 75w90 for a rear LSD. The NS means it does not have the clutch type LSD additve. You could add it of course but that would be silly. That's why the NS works so well in the Subaru transmissions - it doesn't have the LSD additive that is detrimental to our syncro operation. GD

You already have a cold air intake - the stock airbox draws air from the wheel well. GD

Have done a visual check for spark? I've seen an ignitor die in this very way - only half the coil pack will fire. Done a compression check? If you have fuel and spark.... either the valve timing is off or there's not enough compression..... GD

More affordable maybe - but it won't have as much power potential. Subaru's are not setup for RWD - the transmission can't handle it for long because the transfer gears will fail at the back.... they aren't setup for it. Making it AWD can be done - would be a ton of fun of course - but unless you have about $10,000 to throw at it over the next couple years (WRX front clip's aren't real cheap for one) then it's not going to be feasible. GD

When I couldn't get into 2nd gear on a Legacy I refurbed it was the gears themselves - they had stripped all the teeth off and jammed up the engagement dogs. It wouldn't even try to go in. Transmission was shot - tons of metal. I would just pull it - easier to work on. You'll probably find the tranny is toast - they just don't last and a replacement is the best option. GD

On my sport sedan the turbo headers are very much like the borla-style UEL headers and with a 3" straight-through exhaust from the turbo-back it has a nice mean sound to it. There's a resonator in the mid-pipe and then the "muffler" is a 3" ID glass-pack style unit. It's a beast and I love the way it sounds. GD

Might need a new clutch cable or something. Sounds like the trans is shot. GD

Hhhhhmmm - I don't know about the vented rotor bit. I've swapped from solid to vented on the EA81's (my '83 hatch most recently - late last year) and did not have to change the hubs. New pads, etc and everything works perfect..... But I also thought I have swapped back and forth with hubs and didn't notice the differernce that Gloyale mentioned.... but perhaps I missed that. Seems like the hole for the cotter pin wouldn't line up with the castle nut if it was that far off..... GD

The cone-washer is grooved up and destroyed. Get a new one and a replacement hub. It's a mechanical shaft locking system and will not work if damaged. GD

It's about $80 per cam give or take. So the DOHC's would be about $320.... as I said give or take. GD

I use the 6 ton's when I do tranny's. Don't get anything smaller. Typically I have to use a block of wood on my shop jack for the last extra bit of height needed to do a tranny. GD

How much is "a good amount" of money in your opinion? GD

Long term the R-134 will leak out of the hoses and seals. There are several replacements for R-12 that are made from a hydrocarbon blend that is environmentally acceptable and will not leak out of the R-12 systems. It is doubtful that any of the automotive HVAC places will still have R-12. It is still availible with a license and is often sitting around in bottles at commercial and industrial refrigeration houses - because many of those systems still use it. It can be recovered and reused from lots of old refrigerators, etc. If you need some you can find an HVAC guy that does it on the side off craigslist and have him bottle up some R12 from an old (working) fridge or freezer you could find on craigslist for $20 or less - often free for the hauling. Appliances like refrigerators have POUNDS of R12 in them. More than enough for a couple Subaru's. GD

Fluid is never a bad call - unless what you drain out looks like "glitter pen" or has a whole "prize package" in it with big hunks of metal and mount-everest on the drain plug. Actually the FT4WD tranny is very little different from the AWD tranny with respect to the input shaft bearing arrangement. I would chalk up the lack of failures on the XT6 transmissions to either a superior input shaft bearing or to fewer of those transmissions in the wild from which to draw significant failure reports..... but I bet it uses the "10 ball" input shaft bearing that is used on the EJ turbo 5MT's instead of the "6 ball" that is used in the NA variants. More balls = better shaft support and less load per ball. GD

I'm thinking we need a shifter boot from a Loyale - one of the push-button one's that mounts right to the floor. And we fix the hole to match the size of the boot.... maybe more of the diamond plate. Should work out well I think...... GD